Two Shots The a Flier

Chamberman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2012
Messages
375
Location
Caldwell, Idaho
A buddy of mine is consistently shooting 2 shots in nearly the same hole and then the third one flies high and right about two inches...

What could be the main culprit? Bedding, receiver screw torque, etc???
 
Seating depth, Primer and different powder in that order.
If its not mechanical. Try a .020 seating depth change it doesn't get alot better then try a different primer then move on to a different powder.
In my stubbornness when the new RL powders came out I was fighting the same thing with R26 in a 280AI untill I got so frustrated I swung for the fences with RL23 and produced a 3 shot 1 hole group with RL23 first try
 
Is this rifle in question stock standard?
Is it factory bedded?
What are the action screws torqued to?
Has a seating depth test been done to it?

There are quite a few possibilities that could be causing this.
What type and make of rifle is it?
My 22-250 was doing this with Sierra 53g MK and Varget with a WLR primer…same load with Fed 210 and they went into the same hole. If I change seating depth just by .005" above and below what it is now, the group opens and closes as it gets nearer the rifling. It likes that little bit more jump and the primer change made the difference.

Cheers.
 
I'd check all the fasteners. action screws, base screws, scope base, scope caps. make sure they are torqued. when you check the action screws I'd remove the action completely and make sure the action is sitting in the stock properly. Is the barrel free floated? shooting off a bipod?

It could be the load/ ammo. buddy of mine had his 243 out with like 3 different kinds of factory ammo and wouldn't shoot worth a **** like 3" groups. I had some federal fusion, he tried that and it shot about 3/4 inch.
 
We have it narrowed down, finally....

It's a 338 Norma- custom....

It was suppressed when this issue arose, and had not been shot with just a muzzle brake.

Shooting it unsuppressed with a muzzle brake, the issue went away......

We are now disseminating if it's the muzzle device that the suppressor is attached to the barrel with, or if the suppressor needs to be direct thread.

It may be neither, but we are narrowing it down.

We have gone through a checklist of possible mechanical issues, with everything checking out thus far.
 
Could be heat induced issue with the suppressor. They get a mighty hot after a few shots. I would at least change the crush ring or try even a different suppressor if possible.

You say there is intermediate muzzle device between the barrel and brake or suppressor ???
 
The device is the attachment for the suppressor, so I may have mis- stated. This will be removed and the suppressor will be threaded directly to the barrel.

We will be shooting again this weekend.
 
shoot 1, stove pipe the rifle and wait 5 min.
Shoot 1, stove pipe and wait 5.
shoot 1.

If this groups all, its a simple captured heat issue. Big magnums are he!! on cans for heat.
 
Yes and open the action to promote cooling during the 5 minute periods.
I think that somebody actually sells a bore fan to promote cooling... not that you need it here.
For hunting I would be comfortable with the first two shots, but that is just my perspective.
I have not hunted suppressed.
Good luck, Stay safe, & Have fun.
 
Sometimes one has to think outside the box. One rig that was making one holers for 2-3 shots, then went wild, turned out to have had the bolt face touching the barrel. As it warmed up, and touched, it sprayed. Another, a 30-378 Weatherby would heat up a bit, and the bullet was contacting the muzzle brake, as they supposedly had not stress relieved the brake.
 
Top