IHFarmer07
Well-Known Member
Love it.....I just got a bunch more pin gages from Amazon the other day to test neck tension, doughnuts and sizing. Got enough things set up for 2 of the 3 rifles I reload for at this time for it.
Tuning for long range
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IHFarmer07
Well-Known Member
I'll take a picture of what I did to a couple rifles tonight.....works good
IHFarmer07
Well-Known Member
Here's what I did with my Valkyrie, I glued a 1/4x28 threaded wood insert into the stock....not much of a pretty stock as this is my truck/SxS gun so that's why I did what I did.
Here, I made an aluminum insert to go in the front of my bravo stock, again 1/4x28 so I can use the same rod that I made before for the Valkyrie. The V3 works great and is out of the way here, kinda heavy since it's a stainless 1/2" rod that I used and welded a 1/4x28 bolt to the end.
Here, I made an aluminum insert to go in the front of my bravo stock, again 1/4x28 so I can use the same rod that I made before for the Valkyrie. The V3 works great and is out of the way here, kinda heavy since it's a stainless 1/2" rod that I used and welded a 1/4x28 bolt to the end.
Tagging in. Thank you so much. Learning and learning. I love it!
IHFarmer07
Well-Known Member
From me playing with the Valkyrie, with a .001 neck tension, the bullet won't move, I've tried. I bought a K and M with a load pack and with .002" it takes over 90# to FULLY seat the bullet, I have to seat with the co-ax and forester micro seating die. With .001" neck tension it goes down between 20-40#'s, depending on if I have lube inside the neck or lube the bullet. Very interesting stuff
Really contemplating using HBN for my rifles I reload for to eliminate the cold weld, improve es/sd and improve seating effort.
Rhovee
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- Jun 29, 2017
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If you have to load over 90 with an arbor press with .002 NT something is up. Use a bore size over STIFF Nylon brush like Iosso. 3-4 passes to remove some carbon and it's good to go. I don't clean cases, except with steel wool (0000) on the outside of the necks. Do this just before seating the bullets. I don't let bullets sit for long to prevent cold weld. The force required to seat a bullet depends on caliber, more surface area. Seating force isn't directly related to seating pressure. Lot's of ways to manipulate it. HBM, Graphite, etc. 2-3 has always worked for me. Some rifles/cartridges like more. Big 338's i have found like less (.002).
IHFarmer07
Well-Known Member
The over 90# is from SS wet tumbling and no lube at all, I usually fire those quick but with lube is 50-60#. Should've said that.
Depending on what I'm doing time and such I have done or will use 0000 steel wool like you. I had polished the inside of some necks to a shine before and it REALLY took some effort to seat the bullets and I had to use the co-ax to seat them the rest of the way, could only seat them so far on the arbor press before the friction was too much for it, but they shot GREAT.
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new2mud
Well-Known Member
Nice home engineering!
I find being able to use the Magnetospeed without attaching it to the barrel makes me use it almost all the time now. More data!
IHFarmer07
Well-Known Member
Thanks!
Oh ya....I may have to make another rod lol, because like you I wanna know what my reloads are doing also, especially when shooting steel.....I always have the V3 strapped on. More data never hurts!
Don A Parsons
Well-Known Member
Double Tag...
Thank Alex,,, and congrats on the fine shooting rifle thing that I seen on another Thread...
The K.I.S.S idea has many of us in the North following along in our own shooting and hunting sports...
From Lawn Chair Don... LOL
Thank Alex,,, and congrats on the fine shooting rifle thing that I seen on another Thread...
The K.I.S.S idea has many of us in the North following along in our own shooting and hunting sports...
From Lawn Chair Don... LOL
Alex Wheeler
Well-Known Member
I would avoid the SS pin cleaning. Yes you can go back and lube the necks, but the lube you use will show up huge in your groups. You will not know how it will shoot by seating force numbers. Say you use a colloidal graphite to lube you necks. Try 2 different brands, they may have similar seating force but huge differences on target. As a general rule, if you do not want put a lot of time experimenting to find something that will work as good as leaving the carbon in the necks, just leave the carbon in the neck 
Polish it with a stiff nylon brush in a drill. After a few firings you will have a nice layer that will give very good seating consistency and accuracy. If you must have clean cases, the redding powdered graphite seems to be one of the better neck lubes for accuracy across different rifles that I have tried. An interesting note is the particular lube that reduces seating force the most, has always shot terrible in every rifle I have tested it in. But if you just went by how nice the bullets seat, you would pick it every time.
Polish it with a stiff nylon brush in a drill. After a few firings you will have a nice layer that will give very good seating consistency and accuracy. If you must have clean cases, the redding powdered graphite seems to be one of the better neck lubes for accuracy across different rifles that I have tried. An interesting note is the particular lube that reduces seating force the most, has always shot terrible in every rifle I have tested it in. But if you just went by how nice the bullets seat, you would pick it every time.
