Tuning for long range

[Alex Wheeler]

Some of the most anal guys I know are in 1k Benchrest. They analyse everything to death. They also have the best shooting hunting rifles I have seen and the longest kills I have heard of. I think analysis of the platform first is very important. Better to start with a 3" gun at 1k than an 8" gun. Then work with conditions IMO.

 

[idcwby]

After reading all these I didn't see how everyone shoots them, do you just shoot 10 in a row or do shoot one and wait a bit before you shoot another? It seems that the farther you shoot it the easier it is to see the what is working, is this correct thinking on that?

Thanks
idcwby

 

[Rich Coyle]

At that range you have to take advantage of the conditions before something changes.

 

[idcwby]

I understand the farther you push it the better the conditions need to be. Having never done one I was thinking of trying it at 5-600 yards, when the conditions are good.

I'm still trying to understand why not to clean brass but leave the carbon in the neck. Do you still chamfer the neck?

Thanks,
idcwby

 

[L.Sherm]

The carbon acts as lube for the bullet, once you trim the cases to length you should chamfer then done unless you have to trim the length again.

 

[jsthntn247]

The carbon acts as lube for the bullet, once you trim the cases to length you should chamfer then done unless you have to trim the length again.

How do you know? Have you ever tested on a seating force gauge between no lube, carbon necks, ultrasonic cleaned with no lube, Mika lubed after ultrasonic, graphite lubed after ultrasonic, or just tumbled in corn cob after ultrasonic? If the seating pressure changes how does that effect muzzle velocity and or ES/SD and how much distance does it take before those differences show on paper?

 

[Rhovee]

I have tested it with a force guage and what Alex says is correct. If you do all your brass prep the same it will be very consistent. If it's what guys are doing who win benchrest matches, then I am doing it for my hunting rifles.

 

[elkaholic]

I never clean mine other than degrease the outside. I don't even clean the primer pockets.

 

[Matthappens]

I understand the farther you push it the better the conditions need to be. Having never done one I was thinking of trying it at 5-600 yards, when the conditions are good.

I'm still trying to understand why not to clean brass but leave the carbon in the neck. Do you still chamfer the neck?

Thanks,
idcwby

The one issue with not cleaning the carbon out is that it is not always consistent. I clean the inside of the necks with alcohol and a Q tip and the amount of carbon that comes out equally is never consistent. Some have a tone and some hardly any, so your neck tension will vary greatly depending on how much is in the neck. I understand the principle but I think there are better ways of being consistent in lubing the necks.
I only clean the outside of the neck with iron wool and clean the primer pocket. I don't tumble anymore and found it didn't help with the es at all.
Matt

 

[Barrelnut]

The one issue with not cleaning the carbon out is that it is not always consistent. I clean the inside of the necks with alcohol and a Q tip and the amount of carbon that comes out equally is never consistent. Some have a tone and some hardly any, so your neck tension will vary greatly depending on how much is in the neck.

I don't clean my brass except for the outside. For the necks, I run a good nylon bore brush (or RCCBS neck brush) thru the necks a few times. This just leaves a thin carbon layer on the inside of the neck. I get very consistent seating this way.

 

[Matthappens]

I don't clean my brass except for the outside. For the necks, I run a good nylon bore brush (or RCCBS neck brush) thru the necks a few times. This just leaves a thin carbon layer on the inside of the neck. I get very consistent seating this way.

I am with you on the not cleaning except for the outside. As for the necks i do the same thing with the nylon bore brush (i find the bore brushes better than the stiffer RCBS nylon brush). However after i run the brush through I use the Q tip with alcohol on the inside of the neck and that is when I find a big variance on what comes out. Most cases just have the basic amount and some will have an abnormal amount. I noticed the same thing when I used to do it your way and leave carbon but when I would pull bullets with a Grip and Pull, some pull very easy and others are kind of stuck.
I am curious if dipping them in graphite would solve this issue and keep it all the same.
I have heard of guys doing this in previous posts.

 

[Barrelnut]

Interesting that you mention dipping the neck in graphite. Cause I do that too. I dip the neck in graphite before running it thru the die. That is probably helping things some too.

 

[Matthappens]

Interesting that you mention dipping the neck in graphite. Cause I do that too. I dip the neck in graphite before running it thru the die. That is probably helping things some too.

I am sure that would make a big difference, I will give that a try.
What do you use to lube the outside of the case and do you use the graphite before you lube the outside or after?
Also for the most part do you full length resize?

 

[Barrelnut]

I full length size. I clean outside of neck using 0000 steel wool. Clean outside of case with a clean rag and a splash of rubbing alcohol. Brush the inside of the necks. Dip the whole neck in graphite with the small ceramic beads from Redding. Then lube the case body with Imperial sizing wax and run thru the die. So in the end, I'm only using dry lube on the necks.