RDennis303
Member
Has anybody had experience with:
FinalFinish® & FinalFinish® TMS Bullet Kits
for breaking-in 6.5mm Creedmoor barrels?
FinalFinish® & FinalFinish® TMS Bullet Kits
for breaking-in 6.5mm Creedmoor barrels?
Tubb's final finish ~ any thoughts
- Thread starter RDennis303
- Start date
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hunter67wa
Well-Known Member
Ive used it and there is a thread on here about it. I wouldn't use it unless my rifle didn't shoot.
Welcome to LRH, great to have you on board.
elkaholic
Well-Known Member
I wouldnt use it again unless it was a factory rifle that shot very poorly.
BallisticsGuy
Well-Known Member
You need a reason to run sandpaper down your bore. A good reason is best.
Rich Coyle
Well-Known Member
RDennis303,
Before I heard of his stuff, I tried firelapping. Every firearm became easier to clean with no loss of accuracy. A couple improved their accuracy.
Before I heard of his stuff, I tried firelapping. Every firearm became easier to clean with no loss of accuracy. A couple improved their accuracy.
The first 50 rounds I run down any new factory rifle are are David Tubbs Final Finish Bullets. They work as advertised. Mr Tubbs, who has probably forgot more about LR Shootimg than most on this site, doesn't claim any accuracy improvements to your Barrel but does aver that your rifle will be easier to clean and harder to foul after using them on top of shooting with less pressure when you are done. Like Boron Nitride coating, you may have to bump the powder Charge to get back to velocity when you are finished, but your bore will be much smoother when you are finished. I've run them down several 223, 270 7mm 338 bores with excellent results and have NEVER run into averse effects. Anyone that equates shooting these bullets with "running sandpaper down your barrel" obviously has no experience with them. It's a lapping compound. 5 different grits of very fine lapping compound. Only gun I haven't shot them down is my 30 Nosler with its Hand-Lapped Pac Nor 26" Barrel. But I have no doubt that if I did, I wouldn't suffer any negative effects. I'm also gonna try his Boron Nitride coatings and TubbDust. Everything else he's told me has been spot on. He has many good products. I called his 1-800 number one morning years ago with some questions about the Final Finish Bullets. I was talking to a man and told him that my 270 WSM was grouping 1/2 MOA already with my reloads so I wasn't looking so much for improved accuracy as it is a "light weight factory hunting rifle and I'm no David Tubbs." The man replied "That's great accuracy from a light weight factory rifle and I AM David Tubbs"! He then went on to relate just what these bullets would do for my rifle- "they won't make your rifle more accurate, but the will make you Rifle more accurate for a longer shooting session." He was right on that statement too. Unless you have a Hand-Lapped Barrel, buy some, follow the directions and you'll be happy. You must start with a very clean barrel. You must clean your barrel every 5 shots. Every time you run a subsequent patch down your bore, you will notice less resistance. When you have finished your 50 shots, the patch will slide down your bore like a ski on snow.
Dry Heat killed it with his answer; nice job! I agree. I had a Remington Titanium in .308 Win that was shooting like complete crap. In desperation, I decided to try the Tubb Final Finish rounds and it was illuminating as I could feel the bore getting smoother and smoother with each cleaning of the barrel during the 'fire-lapping' process. In my case, accuracy DID improve (went from 3.5" 3 shot groups at 100 yards to 2.5" groups.) But more importantly, that gun can now be shot a lot without copper fouling build up.
In the end I sent the gun to Charley Robertson (Score-Hi Gunsmithing in Albuquerque, NM) and he re-cut the crown and re-brazed the bolt handle on properly for me (Remington Ti guns were NOT very well built, sadly) and when I got it back, it would regularly put 150 grain Partitions into 0.8" to 1" groups from that pencil thin barrel.
I now consider the FinalFinish process the proper start for every new rifle barrel I get.
In the end I sent the gun to Charley Robertson (Score-Hi Gunsmithing in Albuquerque, NM) and he re-cut the crown and re-brazed the bolt handle on properly for me (Remington Ti guns were NOT very well built, sadly) and when I got it back, it would regularly put 150 grain Partitions into 0.8" to 1" groups from that pencil thin barrel.
I now consider the FinalFinish process the proper start for every new rifle barrel I get.
I have the Wheeler kit. You impregnate your own bullets. I think it has 220, 320, and 600 grit compounds. Never used it but it seems this might be too aggressive.
Maybe the Final Finish is more fine grit than this.
Does anyone know what grit equivalent the Tubb bullets are??
Maybe the Final Finish is more fine grit than this.
Does anyone know what grit equivalent the Tubb bullets are??
I'm sure the Wheeler kit is comparable. The Tubb bullets come with different 'grits' and you start with the most aggressive (220'ish?) and work toward finer grits, finishing with something probably close to 600'ish grit. It is a shoot-clean-shoot-clean-shoot-clean, hours long process but you sure feel the barrel smoothing up as you go.
I don't believe that Final Finish Bullets have anything near as aggressive as 220 grit. The roughest one, if you will is probably 400-600 grit. The last batch of 10 Bullets are like 1,200 grit or finer. They just work. And they work great!
I just used the Tubbs system on a barrel that was extremely rough and I think I remember reading in the instructions that the last 10 bullets were only HBN coated.
I have hammer forged factory barrel that shoots very well but copper fouls a bit. Just finished Dyna Bore Tech ceramic coating, I'll see if it works as advertised. Then I'll think about lapping.
