Trying to build a load for an old rifle

That is a lot of rounds, and could be one of several issues wrong with the rifle. What does the rifled action set in? Wood or synthetic stock? Is it bedded? Is the barrel touching the stock or free floated? What does the crown look like? Is the scope a known good scope?
You should isolate all the above issues and fix them or a new barrel will shoot inconsistent groups also.
 
Anyone have an idea of why the chronograph is behaving badly?
Looking simply at Hodgdon/IMR reloading site - you're below starting load data (site is admittedly using a Nosler projectile). I find this cartridge prefers a more full case of powder, work your load up some more before you jump on anything else.
It's not a 22-250 or other notorious heavy burner,run a scope in it, see if anything obvious, thenif you've got the components give it another couple range trips. If still bad, a Shilen in 223 Wylde will open up your options down the road.
Also: just caught the no local scoper known comment: Teslong scope (can be found on Amazon) is very affordable scope and wakes up smoothly with any laptop with front and back side cameras - if you get one like I have used the clarity is excellent as well - and less money than a barrel.
 
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What he said times about 100 for me and known rifles. I know the INTERNET said they have to be shot out junk and a couple of them they should be smooth bores a couple decades ago. Funniest one was I gave my 7mm STW (he killed his first bull with it 13 years ago) to my son (internet kool aid drinker) a few months ago with the book. He said he wasn't going to keep the book up. So we shot the rifle and it still holds .5"/100 with 175ABLR at 3250. Calls me a week or so later "Dad this gun is shot out I looked at the book and you used it for shooting ground hogs a lot, I wanted to know how long it would last because I would love the kids to shoot their first bull with it". We dont shoot 1-2 groundhogs in a day. Often will dump 15-20 on a good couple hours and I have got that gun smoking hot shooting 120BT's at 3600fps. I told him if it is shot out find me the answer on why it still shoots as accurately as it does, and I will be there when the kids use it to shoot their first bulls. I am still waiting for the answer and all I get when I ask is "I'm still figuring it out".
 
I have seen loose action screws have similar affects. And if it is a BDL, pressure on the mag box when action is torqued can cause groups to behave oddly as well. Open the floor plate and see if the mag box has a small amount of freeplay in it. And of course check scope base, and rings are tight as well. As said above, eliminate the little things first. Which chrono are you using?
 
Must depend on caliber too....
Not getting 10,000 rounds down a
.338 LM or .300 WM......it would be a musket🙂
LOL....I was pretty sure he was having issues with a .223. Plus, an older when they used to make great quality guns Remington. LOL....just poking the bear a little bro.
 
I remember years ago when the US Government put out requirements for Military rifles" M-16" 5.56X45 the requirement was in the tens of thousands for barrel life.
The US Secret Service recently put out for a new Service Rifle the uses 5.56X45 US Military spec. for their department use. they also have a requirement that "The barrel shall have a minimum service life of 15,000 rounds. Barrel service life is defined as a not exceeding 5 Minutes-of-Angle (MOA) and exhibiting no more than 125 ft/sec decrease in velocity (in accordance with USSS velocity testing procedures), with observance of offeror's submitted maintenance protocols."
I guess that you can get a lot of rounds down a tube before tossing. Big difference for a hunting or target rifle.
The original post states "inconsistent groups at 100 yards and measured velocities with a deviation of almost 500 fps."
If it was my rifle, I would not put any time or money into it. If the action and stock was still good, I might rebarrel it otherwise get a new rifle.
 
The barrel probable needs to be changed out. The barrel can be rechamber, and muzzle can be cut to cleans it up, but will make it on the short side. It's not the rifling but the ends that are done or wore out, I think. Have a gunsmith look at it. The brass needs at least match by manufacture. Weight each the brass to match. That's not the best, but will help. Trim the brass all to same length. Deburr the flash holes. There more to working over your brass. Neck cutting to be sure your neck are the same thickness. This is a good place to read and learn. The learning curve never ends.
 
You can get a bore scope off Amazon.com for next to nothing and look inside.
My neighbor cleaned his rifles with Hoppe's and called it good for years and a cheap Teslong bore scope told a different story.
Before you can get to the copper you have to remove the carbon!Hoppe's can't do that.I used K G products for a whole day!
We cleaned the rifle for days on end and lastly used wipeout foam cleaner at least a half dozen times and finally got it clean and now the rifle shoots pretty well.
Clean Clean Clean!
Mike Matteson posted while I was typing and I like his answer better than mine
 
Five thousands rounds through a .223 should be just getting broken in nicely! I ran 15K through one, and then it went south. Accuracy was still good, but speed had dropped from 3450 to 3100, using 50 gr. bullets over 28.3 gr. of W-748, and a 24" bbl. Along the way, I discovered that CCI-450 primers were much more consistent than R-P 7 1/2's.
 
Shot out is when the accuracy is unacceptable to you, most factory rifles are shot out to me on day 1.

A 223 rem with 5000 rounds…..heck, I'd load up some Sierra 52gr matchking or similar size FB Bergers. Use decent powder like H322 and seat 0.030" off the lands. How does that shoot?

Then work on seating depth. Better?

I would think 1" 5 shot groups at 100 yds are possible.
 
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