Tool Marks in Savage BA110 .338 Lapua Magnum Barrel??

The final finish will 'polish' down the machining marks, making the path for the bullet smoother, reducing fouling and often improving accuracy (though they don't make that claim as part of the product promotion, which is logical. It DID improve the accuracy of my .308 Win though...)

As for "add to bore wear", every round a person fires through the gun adds to the bore wear. Here is the correlation I see when I consider this subject - people will fire 200 rounds to 'break in their barrel' (i.e., reach the point it 'speeds up' & cleaning gets much easier.) To then 'worry' about firing 10 to 20 bullets to accomplish the same task in a much shorter period seems illogical to me. If you think about it, Final Finish process produces less throat and leade damage to accomplish the same barrel break-in process since fewer rounds are fired to get the barrel smoothed out/broken in. That is less powder and heat trying to torch the throat/leade, which seems like a good thing.

I know there are people that worry about sending a 'gritty' bullet down the barrel. I'm fine with that. To each his own. But if you have a factory barrel with the kind of machine marks this barrel has, are you really "losing" anything by trying to clean them up/smooth them out when people are suggesting barrel replacement anyway? Having broken in factory mass produced barrels both ways, I'll go with the Tubb FinalFinish process every time now. It is faster, easier, and accuracy and speed seems to pick up well before the 'normal' 200 round point. That saves me powder, primer, and bullet 'waste' to accomplish the same thing the 'old' way.

You can actually feel the barrel getting smoother and smoother as you clean it during the FinalFinish firing process. Stop firing when YOU feel it is 'good enough'. No one says you have to fire all the bullets in the kit if you feel it has worked to your satisfaction after, say, 10 rounds. With the TESLONG bore scopes now going for $50, a person can even check the progress very easily. We are living in the Good Old Days!
 
I agree the O.P really has nothing to lose at this point , removing those reamer Mark's are gonna take metal with it.
Running those gritty bullets down a perfectly good barrel to break it in is in my opinion is crazy. Copper bullets are not gonna remove metal. Throat wear is from heat not copper bullets.
 
<SNIPPED STUFF> Copper bullets are not gonna remove metal. Throat wear is from heat not copper bullets.
It isn't the copper bullets I was 'claiming' would cause the throat wear - it was the firing of 200 rounds of copper bullets (with attending powder burning to propel them) that would cause MORE throat wear than 10 to 20 rounds of the TubbFinal finish bullets.

But - AGAIN - no one is saying YOU should do this. The idea of firing a gritty bullet down your barrel bothers you so don't. That's fine. It's all good. But the OPs barrel looks rough. Nothing to lose and everything to gain for him I think.
 
I spoke to my head gunsmith in regards to this matter. He states that this is how our barrels should be. However, if you start to get grouping issues or anything you can always have the firearm sent in for repair.
Now when you say your head gunsmith does it mean Savage? I wouldn't use the final finish, I would live with the added cleaning if it shoots good or a new prefit from criterion for a little over $300. That would solve everything. Dave
 
Criterion, saving my money for one right now. Contact Northland Shooters Supply, visit their website. Dealt with them for years never a problem, also has new savage take-off's, and Shilen prefit's as well. Bought barrels, actions, and stocks thru the years. Dave
 
Polish it, and shoot it without taking the copper out, let it go for a couple hundred rounds, you have nothing to lose by doing so. I have haunch that barrels that only shoot accurately when fouled with a couple hundred rounds have those tooling marks.
 
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I do the same thing with my factory Remington barrels...

Just shoot the crap out of them,,, heat it up if the groups go to heck,,, then do a partial warm barrel wipe leaving a fraction of fowling,, of course i try to knock out alot of the carbon ring at the leed...

I have a custom F class barrel that came un-lapped and it shoots awesome,,, it took about 2 to 400 rounds when it really started to come togther...

But it doesn't have the stalled ring indentation like the picture...

If it shots good,,, run it for what its worth,,, then replace it when its toast,,, if its working for you that is...

Cheers from the North
 
I purchased a new Savage BA110 in .338 Lapua Magnum a couple years ago and went through normal barrel break-in and started doing load workup using Lapua brass, Federal #215 primers, Retumbo and Hornady 285gn ELD Match bullets. The barrel now has 120 rounds through it according to my records. I was never able to get much better than 1.5-2 MOA at 300 yards so put it on the shelf and moved on until I had more time to work with it. Recently I have seen several posts and recommendations on the Teslong borescope so ordered one. Today I put the scope down the barrel and it caused me some concern. Beginning approximately a 1/2" from the beginning of the riflings are what looks to me like tool marks. These repeat approximately ever 1/4"-3/8" for about 2 inches before they are less pronounced. Initially I thought this must be due to improper cleaning but after looking at them further it seems like some of them only cut through the rifling and some do not touch the rifling but are only seen on the lands (hope this terminology is correct).

Has anyone seen anything like this before? Any idea what caused this? Could this be the cause of loss of accuracy? Thanks in advance for your insights.

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If you look at any Savage rifle to date that has used button die rifling this is the norm. I know that it looks horrible and in fact I agree ,however without the lapping and honing of your rifle barrel's bore which add cost to it's manufacture you can mitigate this to an extent by repeatedly shooting your rifle.
Somewhere between 200 - 500 rounds your barrel due to bullet friction will smooth itself to a degree( It will never completely dissipate however)
Having made these statements with out changing your barrel you should be fine for using this weapon as is.
It will indeed suffice for hunting, target shooting etc. as Savage has produced virtually thousands of rifles just like this. (Just ask me) Believe me unless you are a blueprinted action and barrel competition shooter you won't see the difference. If you are not happy with your rifles current performance you can either change out your barrel, or start doing some serious load development.
Before anything else just send some factory rounds downrange in order to remove any rough edges on your lands/grooves.
Trust me your rifle will shoot better if you use JB bore paste in conjunction with Kroil Oil for your next thoroughly extended cleaning. You will have to spend some time until your patches come out clean. The end result will amaze you. Just you watch !
 
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