To Remage or not to remage

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Shouldered prefit is the way to go, but like others have mentioned, the tolerances on a 700 aren't tight enough, so your gunsmith will need the action in hand.

A Remage with a barrel nut is totally fine, just need guages to set your headspace. I had a 22-250 AI prefit on a Savage and it shot great! Recently picked up a TL3 and moved the savage prefit over for now (same thread pitch). Ended up having some cerakote done and looks even better. It'll be a 22 Creed once I torch the current barrel and I definitely plan on the shouldered pre-fit route.View attachment 250499

True - ish ... don't have to have "formal" guages IF and ONLY IF you have a case sized to SAAMI spec - you can use it as a go guage and then use scotch tape on the base of it to add a few thou to make it a no-go guage ... works great - but - don't force the bolt as tape is not nearly as strong/resistive to the torquing forces as the solid steel of the go/no-go guages ... :)

Cheers
Tim
 
True - ish ... don't have to have "formal" guages IF and ONLY IF you have a case sized to SAAMI spec - you can use it as a go guage and then use scotch tape on the base of it to add a few thou to make it a no-go guage ... works great - but - don't force the bolt as tape is not nearly as strong/resistive to the torquing forces as the solid steel of the go/no-go guages ... :)

Cheers
Tim
Ha I wasn't going to say what I used for a go gauge. At least I'm not the only one using the "brass gauges".
 
So, I love the idea of doing my own quick and simple barrel swaps, but I have questions. I'm sure there are plenty of folks here running them, and my biggest concern is accuracy. I'd like to hear some first person accounts, good or bad. Thank you.
I did my 1st prefit barrel last fall. A OMR CF barrel in 7 mag 8T 26". Shoots great at .4-.5. At the moment am going another. A 6xc Criterion 7T 26" MTU. NSS has a action wrench with lug alignment accessory, and headspace gauges that makes it super ez. I also got the Sinclair tool to compress the bolt extractor for removial, necessary to set headspace, again super ez 1 roll pin. Now that I have the tools I will only build my own. Takes 5 minutes to set the headspace.
 
I wasn't aware that anybody was making a "shoulder" prefit for Rem 700 actions. Lots of choices for Rem clone actions, but Rem action is too imprecise for a shoulder fit. For me having a gunsmith fit a pre-fit barrel negates the cost in the first place. By the time I pay him for proper headspace, I'm near the cost of a custom barrel machined and fitted by the gunsmith himself. Seems the barrel nut route for a Rem 700 is the best way to go for a "self-changing" barrel swap rifle.
 
If you want a zero headspace chamber then a barrel nut prefit will do it. If you want a prefit that has perfect headspace then you can measure your action and send those measurements and get real close. Most 700s are .697 from the bolt face to the receiver front. I haven't seen any more than .003 of of this number unless it was trued up wonky. A prefit for a 700 set .003 long on the chambers should hit sammi spec no problem. If your receiver is .003 short it will be a zero headspace and if your receiver was .003 long you would have a .006 headspace which still falls into acceptable sammi spec. I know the difference between go and nogo is .004 but sammi let's a chamber be up to .010 too deep before it's a do not shoot. Once fire formed and your die set properly it would not even mater. But if you can get your barrel off and have calipers you can give measurements and be very close. Front of receiver to bolt face is most important one. Then to the bolt nose. And then to the front of lugs. With these measurements a smith can do you a prefit that is close to perfect. If your doing a.250 lug you can measure from the lug sitting on the top of the receiver to put your calipers on. If you have an actual depth gauge micrometer it would be better but really a caliper will get you very close.
I have not seen any accuracy difference in the least. If you don't mind the look of the nut there really isn't any disadvantages either way. But if you are going to take off your factory barrel you need a stout vice and wrench and then they will be good for all your barrel changes. I personally think shoulders are the easier path. Good luck.
Shep
 
This information has been amazing, way beyond even my lofty expectations. You guys are awesome, thank you
 
Put a Shilen on a Savage, biggest hassle was finding a friend with a barrel vise to remove the existing barrel. Headspace was easy, doing the math for
20 TPI figures out to 1/16th of a turn = .003". Used a new unfired case and turned barrel in till the bolt barely wouldn't close. Marked the barrel at 1/4 turn, that was easy, cut in half, cut that in half. Locked the nut down.
Voila! One shot for scope adjust, first group 1/2 inch. Never shot bigger than that. Many Pdogs have fallen to the mighty Savage.

HM
 
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