To much for a Tikka 223?

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by poon, Apr 20, 2005.

  1. poon

    poon New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2005
    Hi shooters,
    Three months ago I started out reloading.
    I am working on a fast load but I have the following problem.
    Gun Tikka; semi-sporter 223
    Powder;Vithavuori N133.
    Primer;federal 205
    Bullet;55 gr.Sierra gameking (Boattail)
    Brass; Lapua and a shell (unknown) L2A2 RG 02.
    The latter case can hold a little more powder.
    Problem:while I was working up this load I had cratered primers (slightly) from 24.8 grain of N133 and gasleaking out of the pocket .When I was near the max.load of 26.1 the primer became flat. Some cases had lose primer-pockets
    others showed no change.
    I checked for too much neck-tension. The RCBS- match die I used sizes the neck to 6.2 Is this normal?. Saami has 6.4.so I started neck-sizing to 6.3 That was not much neck-tension.I seated the bullet 1 mm away from the rifeling I think that helped a bit. ( It was almost touching the rifleing ).Stilll leaks and cratering.
    The Vit-guide states two 55 gr.bullets: a FMJBT and And A FMJ. As the Sierra is a BT. I work with those data. Is that wrong? Do I need to switch primers ?
    Do magnum primers work better.? If so what brand. 205m? CCI 450.?My c.o.l.was 55.5 mm and is now 54.5 mm. I tried Vit.N135. no change more volume and hard to fit the case.
    Much thanks for your imput,
    From the netherlands,
    Franz
     
  2. 3sixbits

    3sixbits Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    398
    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2005
    Welcome aboard wilhelm! First off, lets get this one fact locked up: TEMPERATURE = PRESSURE! The higher the ambient (surrounding)temperature the higher the pressure. All published loading data must be treated as a guide only! From your published starting load, you work from there to find a load that does NOT indicate high pressure and gives the best accuracy in your rifle. IT NEVER MEANS THAT YOU WILL BE ABLE TO ACHIVE THE PUBLISHED MAXAMIUM or exceed. Back off the load and do not use that load again. Next if you develop a load at say sea level and then travel to a higher altitude pressure will not be the same. What you want to do is develop a load that works in a wide range of conditions. All of the things that you listed DO make a difference in pressure to be sure, but the best way to lower pressure is to reduce the charge! Hope this helps, again WELCOME! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     
  3. Centre Punch

    Centre Punch Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    676
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2004
    Hi wilhelm and welcome,
    One thing i can tell you is,GET RID OF THE L2A2 RG 02 BRASS.
    This is military brass manufactured at Radway Green here in the UK. It is quite possible that this could be causing some of your problems.

    Ian. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  4. longtooth

    longtooth Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    109
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2005
    I must agree with center punch about the brass, military brass is often thicker at the neck. Commercial brass also can very from manufacturer even lots from the same manufacture can be different. Mag primers will make some difference if the powder is filling the case or even compacting the powder. Flat primers, black rings around the primmer and expanded primmer pockets are definitely bad, just short of my favorite smeared head stamps. Turn down the powder or change powder or you could Molly coat, that will reduce the pressure as well. (Molly should be applied with a tumbler and ball bearings)