Timnterra
Well-Known Member
Now that I think about it, wouldn't it be easier/better to get a steel version of the regular tikka recoil lug and have it tig welded in place?
Tikka vs Remington for next build?
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Take a look at the Mesa Precision Carbon Fiber stock also. Very nice and not a long wait period. I ordered one the other day and was told 3-5 weeks for a lefty. $50 off coupon with code ROK, came to about $550 shipped.
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JJMoody
Well-Known Member
Redhawk rifles has the Mesa cf coming in 4-6 weeks for $599, so that's a great deal! RHR is usually one of the best deals I can find on stuff
It is a good deal for sure. RHR did have the lefty for 525 but not inletted for my Defiance Tenacity and not for the Hawkins M5.
I'm a bottom feeder so I throw on a barrel, polish, adjust the trigger and reinforce the stock. Still need to try an aftermarket tikka stock. More to learn on the tikkas
Regarding your tikka project: if you are going to fit your action into a stock with an aluminum bedding block like the bell and Carlson, then the currant tikka recoil system will work fine. The sandwich recoil lug can work very well in a Mc Milan style stock or wooden stock . The tikka action can be bedded equally well in those style of stock with a recoil lug embedded into the epoxy bedding permanently. The suggestion here is to use an after market stainless steel or titanium lug. Roughen up the surfaces of the lug that will be embedded into the resin. Degrease with acetone the lug and the recess of the action where the lug will fit into. Apply a couple of layers of electrical tape either on the top of the lug or on the bottom of the surface of the slot of the action so that a small gap will remains between the top of the lug and the bottom of action recess when the bedding is finished. The lug is positioned and glued into the action recess with a small drop of either 5 min araldite or of super glue. Make sure the recoil lug is pushed forward into that groove . Once dry , apply the release agent over the action as usual ( but not on the lug!). The barreled action can be carefully bedded as are other conventional rifles done. Once everything is dry, the barrel action can be pulled out with the small wack of a rubber hammer on the underside of the barrel forward of the fore hand. The electrical tape is removed and the small layer of superglue or araldite can be cleaned up with fine steel wool and a bit of gun oil. Regarding the fitting of a slightly larger shank barrel into the tikka action, a 45degree cut on the barrel shoulder edge to transition down to the diameter of a normal tikka barrel works well and is not aesthetically unpleasant as some might think. Just beware to fill that « v » groove with plasticine if you are bedding the action and the first inch or so of the barrel shank into your stock, so that the bedding does not penetrate and create a « wedge » in that groove.
Like shep said, easy to mill out the recoil lug area with a mill, drill press or whatever you have. Your bedding will obviously fix all imperfections
I built my tikka 300 wsm from a 7mag and it worked perfectly for me. I was asking about what coal he planned to use because I built a 28 nosler on a tikka and was able to load 3.370 coal rounds in it
25WSM
Well-Known Member
My .03 on this whole deal is I would build a 700. I've been building them for 30 yrs. So I know a thing or two about them.
First off you are not going to go wrong either way here. There are differences in what you are going to achieve between the 2. Like the bottom metal and the magazine. And stock selection. For the Tikka. As you know the Remington 700 is the Chevy 350 motor of guns. The aftermarket is huge. So basically you can build a 700 into virtually anything you can imagine. On the long action you can go 300wsm with a long throat or a 300 win mag with a Sammi spec and they both run fine. Throw an extended box in and it's even better for the win mag or the 300prc. Or 30 Nosler. Really wide open for choice. As far as accuracy the 700 will not let you down. Tikka shoots good to. You need A priority list and wants list and see what one hits the most box's. Once you pic 700 or t3 it's time for the fun.
Shep
First off you are not going to go wrong either way here. There are differences in what you are going to achieve between the 2. Like the bottom metal and the magazine. And stock selection. For the Tikka. As you know the Remington 700 is the Chevy 350 motor of guns. The aftermarket is huge. So basically you can build a 700 into virtually anything you can imagine. On the long action you can go 300wsm with a long throat or a 300 win mag with a Sammi spec and they both run fine. Throw an extended box in and it's even better for the win mag or the 300prc. Or 30 Nosler. Really wide open for choice. As far as accuracy the 700 will not let you down. Tikka shoots good to. You need A priority list and wants list and see what one hits the most box's. Once you pic 700 or t3 it's time for the fun.
Shep
I have a few Tikka builds. They haven't cost me more than 1700-1800 dollars: all carbon barrel, carbon stocks, vastly better action than a rem 700 in factory form, only downfall is you'll get no more than 3.54" cartridge and that from a custom aics stly detach mag w/ custom bottom metal. The Mesa Altitude is a nice stock, but it's a bit heavy. JCS composites has a sporter and tactical style stock available for Tikka, and I really like it. Bonus the tactic jcs is an oz or two lighter than the Mesa altitude.
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Huntz
Well-Known Member
You simply buy the long magazine and either file down the bolt release lever so the bolt opens longer or buy a long bolt release lever.I like the poly mags as they do not clunk around like metal.Huntz
Huntz
Well-Known Member
What do you think is the reason Tikka`s are so accurate out of the box???
There are 4.
#1Great barrels
#2 Great triggers
#3 Action is locked by having the lug fit into the action
# Super squared actions
There is a reason most European and American Manufactures are going to a version of Tikka`s stock lug insert into the action.Why fix what is not broken?Huntz
