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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Tikka pillar length
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<blockquote data-quote="tobnpr" data-source="post: 2243669" data-attributes="member: 68758"><p>I always cut pillars about .010 long and bed the bottom metal to them. As long as you're making contact with the pillar/bottom metal in loose assembly it should be fine. If you contact wood and it needs to compress before the bottom metal makes contact with the pillar that's where the problems occur.</p><p>If the pillars are correct length, it makes no difference how much torque you put on the action screws (within reason, of course).</p><p>You're tightening "metal on metal" and you're placing no stress on the stock or epoxy bedding. Even if you just install pillars and not bed the receiver, all of the torque load from the screws remains on the pillars.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tobnpr, post: 2243669, member: 68758"] I always cut pillars about .010 long and bed the bottom metal to them. As long as you're making contact with the pillar/bottom metal in loose assembly it should be fine. If you contact wood and it needs to compress before the bottom metal makes contact with the pillar that's where the problems occur. If the pillars are correct length, it makes no difference how much torque you put on the action screws (within reason, of course). You're tightening "metal on metal" and you're placing no stress on the stock or epoxy bedding. Even if you just install pillars and not bed the receiver, all of the torque load from the screws remains on the pillars. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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Tikka pillar length
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