Tikka pillar length

Old rooster

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I clamp the base to the barrel and tip on indicator on the forearm just as you did.
Anything over .006 is undue stress according to one persom that worked at Remington years ago but I say anything over .003 is too much.I smile at .002 and below.
 

Tac-O

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I clamp the base to the barrel and tip on indicator on the forearm just as you did.
Anything over .006 is undue stress according to one persom that worked at Remington years ago but I say anything over .003 is too much.I smile at .002 and below.
That's what I did on my last one and got less than. 0.001. I broke my fixture though, so I'll have to make a new one
 

Tac-O

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Well..... It's going to the gunsmith. The modeling clay I had blocking the magazine cutout on the action leaked and let a ton of compound into the chamber and action.

I didn't see it when bedding and cleaning it up because it was sort of hidden by the clay. Then found it this evening when removing it from the stock. I was able to get the compound out if the chamber and most of it out of the action except for some covering the bottom bolt area. Having to chisel it out quickly ended up nicking the edges of the chamber. I think I've got enough removed that the barrel can still be removed but it will have to be set back, chambered again and likely touched up inside the action.
 

Tac-O

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I got the stock cleaned up and it looks pretty good. The pillar that was protruding ever so slightly from the bottom is now flush, and there's solid contact on the pillar tops. I think it will work well after I get my barreled action fixed up.
 

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tobnpr

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Having to chisel it out quickly ended up nicking the edges of the chamber.
Ouch.
No reason to have panicked. Heat will soften and remove epoxy- better to wait, then use a heat gun to soften and remove epoxy when it ends up where it wasn't supposed to go, but most always will flow into the magazine cutout.

I use silicone plugs (same I use to plug bores/chambers for Cerakote) to plug the chamber, then I spray liberally with release agent.
 

Tac-O

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Ouch.
No reason to have panicked. Heat will soften and remove epoxy- better to wait, then use a heat gun to soften and remove epoxy when it ends up where it wasn't supposed to go, but most always will flow into the magazine cutout.

I use silicone plugs (same I use to plug bores/chambers for Cerakote) to plug the chamber, then I spray liberally with release agent.

Now I know! This is the 5th one I've done and haven't had it happen before. I didn't think even heat would allow the barrel to be spun off if it fully cured like it was
 

Old rooster

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What epoxy did you use?I use Devcon 2 part epoxy.
When I set the action into the bedded stock I leave it for 4 to 5 yours and remove the barreled action,inspect to see if epoxy got into places I did not want it to get and clean it out while soft.I then re-apply release agent to action and sit the action back into the stock and tighten screws until they touch and let it sit for final curing.
I have never stuck a stock or had epoxy in places I did not want it to go as I use plenty of modeling clay.
The only stock I did that had over .006 stock stress was my first.The gunsmith that was teaching me took a 1 inch lapping bar with sand paper glued on it and straightened it out in a few minutes.That was aluminum pillars not steel.
I have done well over 40 stocks and always shoot for .002 to .000 stock stress.
From the pic's you have good coverage,should shoot well.
 

Tac-O

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What epoxy did you use?I use Devcon 2 part epoxy.
When I set the action into the bedded stock I leave it for 4 to 5 yours and remove the barreled action,inspect to see if epoxy got into places I did not want it to get and clean it out while soft.I then re-apply release agent to action and sit the action back into the stock and tighten screws until they touch and let it sit for final curing.
I have never stuck a stock or had epoxy in places I did not want it to go as I use plenty of modeling clay.
The only stock I did that had over .006 stock stress was my first.The gunsmith that was teaching me took a 1 inch lapping bar with sand paper glued on it and straightened it out in a few minutes.That was aluminum pillars not steel.
I have done well over 40 stocks and always shoot for .002 to .000 stock stress.
From the pic's you have good coverage,should shoot well.
I use probed 2000. It is pretty thick/stiff stuff. I realized after thinking about it that I didn't leave a hole in my clay dam in the magazine cutout on the stock. I always to, to give the excess a place to more easily go. I was doing a his at 3am while waiting to feed my newborn.... Sleep deprived.

Next time, I'll stuff the action above the dam with a filler or more clay for reinforcement.
 

tobnpr

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Post a pic or two of the breech of the barrel. It may not be as bad as you think.
It's one thing to be "ugly"- something different to affect function.
If you've got deep scratches within the chamber, that's a different story.
 

Tac-O

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Post a pic or two of the breech of the barrel. It may not be as bad as you think.
It's one thing to be "ugly"- something different to affect function.
If you've got deep scratches within the chamber, that's a di

I dropped it off at the smith today. He got the barrel off and checked it out. He said that the breech of the chamber should have a bevel on the corner (the guy who I had chamber the barrel didn't do that) and that beveling it the way it should be should take care of the nicks. So that's good... No setback necessary. There shouldn't be any scratches inside the chamber.

He said the harder part will be getting all the compound off the bolt lug recesses without damaging them and having to lap them and the bolt lugs again.
 

tobnpr

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Heat should remove the epoxy without damaging any surfaces (provided the proper method is used).
I don't see why he would need to lap the lugs because of what happened with the epoxy. Clean it off the receiver abutments, no damage. Been there, done that.

if he removes any measurable amount of material from the lugs, then you ARE looking at a setback and rechamber. I would not recommend lapping, this barrel has already been chambered and headspace is set.
 

Tac-O

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Heat should remove the epoxy without damaging any surfaces (provided the proper method is used).
I don't see why he would need to lap the lugs because of what happened with the epoxy. Clean it off the receiver abutments, no damage. Been there, done that.

if he removes any measurable amount of material from the lugs, then you ARE looking at a setback and rechamber. I would not recommend lapping, this barrel has already been chambered and headspace is set.
I guess if the tool used left any marks on it? I don't know for sure, but I guess we'll see. I know he's got a good reputation and makes accurate rifles, so I think I trust him thus far (much much more than the previous guy that worked on it).
 

tobnpr

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I guess if the tool used left any marks on it? I don't know for sure, but I guess we'll see. I know he's got a good reputation and makes accurate rifles, so I think I trust him thus far (much much more than the previous guy that worked on it).
Hope so.
From what I read, it sounded like he had told you he was going to lap the lugs.
Unless you used a 90 degree pick, and poked around on the back side of the lug abutments there's no way whatever you did would have "damaged" them.
Even if you scratched them- that's no reason to lap the lugs and eff up your headspace. A few light surface scratches will in no way affect function. Fine to "clean" them up if needed- but you're talking about a factory rifle here. You may have less than optimal lug contact from the factory. Trying to "correct" that now- if it means taking a couple of thousandths off the lugs will change your headspace.

Just saying that lapping lugs is not inconsequential. If he laps a few thousandths off, you've increased headspace by that much- and reduced your primary extraction as well.
More than that, it's setback/deepen the chamber. Just suggesting, you might tell him to contact you to discuss "why" before he laps the lugs to any extent that will measurably increase headspace.

Just thoughts from an 07 smith...
 

Tac-O

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Hope so.
From what I read, it sounded like he had told you he was going to lap the lugs.
Unless you used a 90 degree pick, and poked around on the back side of the lug abutments there's no way whatever you did would have "damaged" them.
Even if you scratched them- that's no reason to lap the lugs and eff up your headspace. A few light surface scratches will in no way affect function. Fine to "clean" them up if needed- but you're talking about a factory rifle here. You may have less than optimal lug contact from the factory. Trying to "correct" that now- if it means taking a couple of thousandths off the lugs will change your headspace.

Just saying that lapping lugs is not inconsequential. If he laps a few thousandths off, you've increased headspace by that much- and reduced your primary extraction as well.
More than that, it's setback/deepen the chamber. Just suggesting, you might tell him to contact you to discuss "why" before he laps the lugs to any extent that will measurably increase headspace.

Just thoughts from an 07 smith...

Of course! Thank you very much for the knowledge. It's not a factory gun anymore. I previously had a new barrel put on and the action squared, etc.. I left him with my unsized case in case he did have to do anything with the lugs so that he could set headspace back where it was.

He's going to be inspecting the work of the first smith and getting back to me before doing anything, so I'll ask him about it then.
 

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