Thumler's vibratory case cleaner - worth the money??

I am not knocking the media cleaning method (I used it for many years) but my problem
was that no matter what I did the media left an abrasive stuck to the inside of the case. All media types have abrasives in them and even recommend an additive if it starts to get old and take more cleaning time.

The only way I was able to remove this abrasive from the inside was to use an acetone rinse several times before a Q-tip came clean when rubbed all round the inside of the case.

Is this abrasive really a problem ? I don't know for sure, I just cant make my self load them and shoot them through a custom barrel and risk reducing barrel life when I can eliminate the abrasive inside the case by using another method that cleans the inside as well as the outside.

I don't want everyone to rush out and buy something else, and throw there media cleaner away. just see if you can get the cases clean inside with an additional step. If you cant or don't want to no problem, just think about what effect it may have on your high priced barrel.

Just saying.

J E CUSTOM
 
The FA rotary tumbler and the Magnet can be had for $156.00 at WalMart right now on their web site. Type in rotary tumbler in the search box and click on FA rotary tumbler. For those interested, this is the best price I can find.
 
Wallyworld.... Bringing home value to America ........:)

Excellent price btw.

You still need a couple 5 gallon buckets and a rotary media separator. I 'spin' my cases in a cheapo rotary with a bit of water in the bottom. The pins come right out and fall to the bottom where you can pick them up with the magnet....l very easy.

Always keep in mind that with 30 cal brass, some pins will lodge sideways in the necks (not many) and will have to be physically removed. I use a small screwdriver to pop them out.

No biggie.
 
One thing not mentioned about sonic cleaners is your wife can use it for cleaning her jewelry too......

Sort of tit-for-tat. I 'borrow' my wife's oven for drying cases out of the wet media, she 'borrows' my sonic cleaner for her jewelry.... give and take in a marriage....:D

Way ahead of ya!

I have a couple of really good ultrasonic cleaners from another business I had about 5 years ago - top of the line medical ultrasonic cleaners. One I kept for cleaning all sorts of stuff and my wife uses the other for her jewelry.
 
Way ahead of ya!

I have a couple of really good ultrasonic cleaners from another business I had about 5 years ago - top of the line medical ultrasonic cleaners. One I kept for cleaning all sorts of stuff and my wife uses the other for her jewelry.


I don't know what you are using in it (But I would like to if you would share) I am currently using the Lyman products for brass and for parts clean up (Different Lyman product ).


Lyman Turbo Sonic Ultrasonic Case Cleaning Solution Liquid

And =

Lyman Turbo Sonic Ultrasonic Steel Cleaning Solution Liquid

For steel parts, and it does a really good job.

J E CUSTOM
 
I don't know what you are using in it (But I would like to if you would share) I am currently using the Lyman products for brass and for parts clean up (Different Lyman product ).


Lyman Turbo Sonic Ultrasonic Case Cleaning Solution Liquid

And =

Lyman Turbo Sonic Ultrasonic Steel Cleaning Solution Liquid

For steel parts, and it does a really good job.

J E CUSTOM

I just use the same cleaner that I've always used for medical grade metals and plastics. It's called Alconox and I have a ton of it left over. I don't have anything to compare it to but since it works well enough to pre-clean everything for surgeries I figure it's just fine for reloading. Works great on jewelry too. It's very affordable and a container of it will go a LONG way.

Alconox Detergent, 4 lb. 1104-1 | Zoro.com

Alconox, Inc. detergents excel at stainless steel and metal cleaning
 
Got me thinking... I wonder if I can use their Lunimox for pre-treatment cleaning of aluminum prior to TIG welding. Been using volitale acetone as a pre treat and a stainless steel brush to remove oxides...

I know that's not on forum but I do quite a bit of Aluminum and stainless TIG work Code aluminum and stainless welding demands a high degree of surface prep. Surface impurities and oxides cause weld porosity poor welds.
 
I just use the same cleaner that I've always used for medical grade metals and plastics. It's called Alconox and I have a ton of it left over. I don't have anything to compare it to but since it works well enough to pre-clean everything for surgeries I figure it's just fine for reloading. Works great on jewelry too. It's very affordable and a container of it will go a LONG way.

Alconox Detergent, 4 lb. 1104-1 | Zoro.com

Alconox, Inc. detergents excel at stainless steel and metal cleaning


Thanks a lot !!!! we appreciate your sharing that with us.

I will have to try some.

J E CUSTOM
 
Thanks a lot !!!! we appreciate your sharing that with us.

I will have to try some.

J E CUSTOM

You're very welcome! Thanks for all the great info you post. I've learned a lot from this forum over the years. Even though I don't post a lot, I do plenty of lurking. What part of Texas are you from??
 
Just an update to the different uses of case cleaners.

I had mentioned that I also had a sonic case cleaner that I liked in some cases and wanted to mention that I tried it on a trigger assembly ((A very dirty Remington) using the metal cleaner.

I was amazed at How clean it was after only about 15 Min. After cleaning I blew it out with air and dried it with a hot air gun. Then I used the traditional lighter fluid to oil it.

The bottom of the sonic cleaner had all kinds of dirt in it when I cleaned it. The trigger now looks new and is definitely usable.

Just thought I would pass this on to those that have a sonic cleaner.

Don't try this in a vibratory cleaner !!( Just a little humor ).

J E CUSTOM
 
Thats SOP for my Ruger 22 match target pistols because they are so, so hard to clean, especially the trigger groups. I pull the Volquartsen Grips and railway sights and give 'em a bath. Sure beats the old take 'em apart and Q-Tip method. When Bill Ruger designed the action, I bet he never considered cleaning them....:)

I use dry compressed air and a spritz of Rem Oil in a spray can on the internals.
 
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