You use thread locker on the QD muzzle device only.
Thread locker on barrel threads
- Thread starter cornchuck
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Citified
Well-Known Member
Good information to know. I am waiting on my first suppressor to come out of holding.
Day 112 and counting using the electronic form method.
Day 112 and counting using the electronic form method.
QuietTexan
Well-Known Member
If you need to time the muzzle device (it looks kind of like an A2 cage so maybe), don't use a crush washer. Precision Armaments makes a set of precision ground washers that will let you time the mount but keep the mount in line with the bore. Crush washers can crush out of alignment, and peel washers are a PITA IMO. I use these on all my time muzzle brakes, ARs and bolts both.
precisionarmament.com
Accu-Washer® Muzzle Device Alignment System
Precision Armament Accu-Washer Muzzle Alignment System - accurately index muzzle brake, flash hider, suppressor, compensator with perfect bore alignment ...
precisionarmament.com
Only for the brake. Then if you get other rifles, just buy another brake. I have never used loctite with a suppressor and have not had any problems. ONLY THE BRAKE TO THE BARREL THREADS!
UncleDano
Well-Known Member
You were in jail or your suppressor was in jail??
huntsman22
Well-Known Member
yes. He got out yesterday...
QuietTexan
Well-Known Member
It was only a misdemeanor guys, geez
cornchuck
Well-Known Member
SSgt G Cody
Well-Known Member
I have 3 suppressors, and torque all 3 to 35lbs onto barrel. Have had none come loose. If you use a bonding agent, only use Blue LocTite, NOT the Red! Red is a permanent locking bond! And it only takes a little bit!
WeiserBucks
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Red isn't even close to permanent.
Rocksetting the muzzle device to the barrel works well if you follow Rocksett's application guide. Apply a thin coat to both surfaces, let dry for a day, apply another thin coat, assemble. You'll get a bind slightly stronger than blue loctite. A few drops does next to nothing. Surefire reccomends a thin coat on each then assemble, but that results in relatively weak bond that's weaker than blue loctite.
Red loctite isn't permanent, and heat is one of the common methods to get it to release. I haven't tried it on a muzzle device, but securing a part that's going to heat up quickly as the gun is fired with a compound that releases when heated has always seemed like a bad idea to me.
Red loctite isn't permanent, and heat is one of the common methods to get it to release. I haven't tried it on a muzzle device, but securing a part that's going to heat up quickly as the gun is fired with a compound that releases when heated has always seemed like a bad idea to me.
QuietTexan
Well-Known Member
Unless you way WAY overheat your barrel you aren't going to get to a point where strength of the correct thread locker is impacted by firing schedule. Just don't try to unscrew a suppressor on a brake when it when it's hot because generally the can will be locked on the brake tighter than then brake on the barrel and at the end of the day there's only so much break away torque any thread locker can add. Metal expands when it's hot, and the difference in expansion between titanium, aluminum, and steel comes in to play on the can whereas the brake and barrel are both steel.
Loctite 272 only looses about 25% of it's strength up to 200*C (392*f), book says heat to 250*C (482*f) to remove. If you're shooting a barrel hotter than 50-60*C then you're at the mercy of however much powder you have in the case in terms of what is happening to your throat.
I'm not going to beat up on a precision barrel like that, I'm really not sure I even could unless I decided to use my 300 RUM for a 12-shot 2-minute PRS stage 🤣
The above is limited to bolt action rifles, any gentlemen who run ARs like FPS arcade game characters might need to invest in pinned muzzle devices. I don't have problems with my 300 BLK but I'm low-speed high-drag in that world.
