The Truth About Reloading Belted Cartridges

[BLOODHOUND BRO]

When considering the best caliber to base a long range build off of, the cartridge I seem to be partial to is the 7mm Rem Mag. It is a top performer ballistically, but I have been told my numerous individuals that reloading belted cartridges is a pain. This makes me lean more towards the 280 AI, similar (although not quite) ballistically yet not belted. Another individual told me there is absolutely no difference between reloading belted and non belted ammo. So I am here to find out from people who reload for the 7mm Rem Mag. I reload quite a bit for 223, 22-250, 243 and 270 but have never reloaded belted ammo. Can you neck size or FL belted cases? Is there any crimping procedure after bullet seating? Can you trim and resize cases the same as non belted cases? Can you get the same number of cycles out of a case? Are you limited on the range of the depth you seat your bullet at? Anything I am missing?

Thanks in advance for your insight.

 

[MudRunner2005]

If you know how to setup your dies properly, you will have no problems reloading for belted magnums. Also, don't swap brass around amongst multiple different rifles in the same caliber. That can also lead to issues, but is a whole different topic on its own.

I keep my brass separated out by number of firings, brand, and which rifle it was shot out of.

You can usually be fine with once-fired brass from another gun (for example range pick-ups, or inexpensively purchased) if you have a good FL sizing die that is set to proper FL sizing dimensions. If your die is not 100%, then you might have problems resizing the used brass down to SAAMI specs to fit in your chamber. But if they FL size down to where they'll fit in your chamber with no resistance, then you can load them and shoot them, and they will fire-form to your chamber and will become good brass for you to use.

I have never had any issues with sizing ANY of my many belted magnum calibers.

 

[Engineering101]

I've loaded for 7mm Rem Mag, 300 Win Mag, 338 Win Mag and truth be told the belt doesn't seem to be a big deal. It is about like loading non belted stuff. Whatever you do to that will work on belted cases. I prefer the modern cartridges that head space off the shoulder (and typically operate at higher pressure) but the belted stuff works. I have seen a buddies rifle (7mm Rem Mag) that you can barely close the bolt on factory ammo. He says it is setup for min headspace. That is more of an issue with a belted case because the belt won't give like a shoulder will.

I've also heard that belted cases don't feed as well as non belted cases but I've never had such a problem. It probably depends more on the design of the rifle than the case.

Having said all that, I'm looking to do a build of the new 28 Nosler. I have a 26 Nosler and I really like the case. It is plenty tough and rated for 65,000 PSI. The 26 is a bit high strung and thus touchy to load for but the 7mm version should be really nice. I figure you'll get 7mm RUM performance with a bit less powder. The downside of that case is that it is new and expensive as hell for the brass. It is so expensive that it is just sitting on the shelf at my local shop so no problem getting it. The weird thing is you can buy loaded 26 Nosler ammo for about the same price as the empty brass!

 

[MudRunner2005]

I've loaded for 7mm Rem Mag, 300 Win Mag, 338 Win Mag and truth be told the belt doesn't seem to be a big deal. It is about like loading non belted stuff. Whatever you do to that will work on belted cases. I prefer the modern cartridges that head space off the shoulder (and typically operate at higher pressure) but the belted stuff works. I have seen a buddies rifle (7mm Rem Mag) that you can barely close the bolt on factory ammo. He says it is setup for min headspace. That is more of an issue with a belted case because the belt won't give like a shoulder will.

I've also heard that belted cases don't feed as well as non belted cases but I've never had such a problem. It probably depends more on the design of the rifle than the case.

Having said all that, I'm looking to do a build of the new 28 Nosler. I have a 26 Nosler and I really like the case. It is plenty tough and rated for 65,000 PSI. The 26 is a bit high strung and thus touchy to load for but the 7mm version should be really nice. I figure you'll get 7mm RUM performance with a bit less powder. The downside of that case is that it is new and expensive as hell for the brass. It is so expensive that it is just sitting on the shelf at my local shop so no problem getting it. The weird thing is you can buy loaded 26 Nosler ammo for about the same price as the empty brass!

It's only $2.00 a box cheaper than Nosler 7mm STW brass, and I've been buying that stuff for years. So trust me...I feel your pain.

It's all overpriced and gouged. But I know that going into it, and I still consciously make the purchase. So, I guess they laugh all the way to the bank, and the joke's really on us...

 

[BLOODHOUND BRO]

I am ignorant to the difference between "head space off the shoulder" and belted. Could you elaborate?

 

[MudRunner2005]

I am ignorant to the difference between "head space off the shoulder" and belted. Could you elaborate?

Belted cases have a belt... And when the chamber is cut, there is a groove cut with the reamer that allows room for the larger diameter belt to fit into the barrel's chamber at a specific depth (your caliber's needed headspace). That extra bit of material removed is where the belt of the case sits. The case can not move forward or backward, once the belt has been headspaced properly into that groove and also seated properly up against the bolt face. Therefore, when the round is fired, the entire case doesn't shift forward when the firing pin hits it, it stays in place, and the rest of the chamber's walls are filled with brass to fire-form the case to the chamber.

That is how it works, but is not the original intent. The original intent was for headspacing and guaranteed case extraction on big game and dangerous game rifles in Africa...Where your life counts as to whether or not you have a stuck case and can't reload, or if you can eject those shells and get 2 more in it fast for a follow-up shot on something big and mean that's running straight at you.....Like a lion, tiger, or cape buffalo.

A non-belted case, is headspaced off of the shoulder of the cartridge, and not a belt. And if you have too much headspacing in a non-belted chamber, the entire case can move forwards when the firing pin hits the primer, causing the case to not be seated properly against the bolt face, and that can cause all sorts of issues. Which is why forming for Ackley Improved calibers and forming brass for other wildcat cartridges, you use a light charge, and seat the bullets as pressed-fit into the lands to ensure the base of the case, is seated properly against the bolt face, so that when the brass expands, it will properly form and headspace into your chamber.

 

[Engineering101]

bro

When you put ammo into a chamber you don't want it loose (uncontained) because the brass is not strong enough to prevent case failure - without the support of the surrounding steel chamber. So.... headspace is a measure that ensures the chamber is adequately supporting the case. When a gun is made the manufacturer will set the headspace within tolerances so any ammo you put it in will fit and not blow up - all good things. Several different methods for headspacing a cartridge have been developed over the years including off the rim, shoulder, belt or case mouth. If you want to know more I recommend the book "Modern Reloading" by Richard Lee.

 

[BLOODHOUND BRO]

Thanks for the info, that summed it up. Essentially, it doesn't seem like there are any disadvantages to reloading belted cases.

 

[MudRunner2005]

Thanks for the info, that summed it up. Essentially, it doesn't seem like there are any disadvantages to reloading belted cases.

None that I've ever witnessed. Some people have had bad experiences, but I don't believe the fact it was belted always had anything to do with it. I think operator error can be attributed a lot more times than will ever be admitted. I'll admit I've had some errors. Hell, I've even stuck a case before trying to size down 7mm STW brass into .300 WM brass just to see how hard it would be. It didn't turn out well... LOL

 

[dsculley]

For me, there is only one issue with belted cases that you can overcome easily once you know how. As said earlier, it is the belt that is used for setting head space. If you set your full length sizing die per most manufactures instructions, you may be setting the shoulder back too far. This leaves excess space between the shoulder of the case and the chamber which will weaken the case and lead to case head separation. Take some fired brass and carefully measure the total length to the shoulder using whatever device/method you prefer. Then set your F/L die so it only sets the shoulder back about .002". As a new reloader, it took me some time and reading to find out why I was having issues. The sooner you learn to address this issue with belted cases, the better. This is the same thing you would do with a non-belted case anyway.

Dennis

 

[MudRunner2005]

For me, there is only one issue with belted cases that you can overcome easily once you know how. As said earlier, it is the belt that is used for setting head space. If you set your full length sizing die per most manufactures instructions, you may be setting the shoulder back too far. This leaves excess space between the shoulder of the case and the chamber which will weaken the case and lead to case head separation. Take some fired brass and carefully measure the total length to the shoulder using whatever device/method you prefer. Then set your F/L die so it only sets the shoulder back about .002". As a new reloader, it took me some time and reading to find out why I was having issues. The sooner you learn to address this issue with belted cases, the better. This is the same thing you would do with a non-belted case anyway.

Dennis

I just neck-size all mine until they start giving me some resistance when chambering. Then I FL size them once. Then neck size until I get some resistance again. Then FL size them once again. Then back to neck sizing several times... You get the idea.

I do the same for both belted and non-belted calibers.

 

[kshunter]

I have been reloading a 7mag for quite some time as well as a 300 win mag and don't do anything different to those than I do my 30-06 and 308 stuff. Exception trim the blooming 06 brass about every time lol. I'm extremely partial to my 30-06 however the 7 mag is really a better LRH round IMHO. I would say go for it it's a fun round to shoot and components are usually readily available and lean towards the inexpensive side as far as a magnum stuff is concerned!

 

[rsnell]

I loaded for the 7mm Remington magnum for about 10 years without any problems. After full length resizing the brass and firing in the rifle, I neck sized the brass for 2-3 more loadings. I always checked the length of the brass and trimmed if necessary. After neck sizing 2-3 times, I bumped the shoulder back 0.002 inches and continued the reload them.

The story changed when loading for a 300 Weatherby and a 340 Weatherby magnum. After loading two times, empty brass would not chamber. The problem was in the case immediately ahead of the brass. The SAAMI specification for this is 0.512 inches for most belted magnums. A Full length sizing die can not resize this part of the case. A Willis die, htttp://www.larrywillis.com, will resize this area. Since Weatherby brass is expensive, the price was not a problem when 60 cases were involved. Bumping the shoulder back 0.002 inches will probably help but I don't think this is a permanent solution. I have found factory loaded ammunition for 340 and 378 Weatherbys that would not chamber due this problem. The gun shop where I bought the ammunition replaced the out of specification ammo without a question.

I did not crimp for the 7mm magnum but I did crimp for the 300 and 340 Weatherbys. Do not be afraid of belted cases. Understand the problem and the solutions and you are fine.

Bob

 

[MudRunner2005]

I have been reloading a 7mag for quite some time as well as a 300 win mag and don't do anything different to those than I do my 30-06 and 308 stuff. Exception trim the blooming 06 brass about every time lol. I'm extremely partial to my 30-06 however the 7 mag is really a better LRH round IMHO. I would say go for it it's a fun round to shoot and components are usually readily available and lean towards the inexpensive side as far as a magnum stuff is concerned!

That's where the advantage starts to the '06 AI 40* Shoulder... The brass doesn't grow, you get more capacity, with means more velocity.