The reason we anneal brass cases.

Is there any difference or does the fire cause any difference to brass between flame annealing and induction annealing or is it just a source of heat to work the soften the brass? Reason I ask is the cost of machines between the top induction annealer from the kiwi's (lots of R&D and very easy to use but you have to buy a lot of piolets) or the propane annealers that are out there on the market. And then there is always the home made one. Not that I need the best. Just curious. Personal opinion is the induction would be the most consistent.
 
Having a good understanding of what annealing does Metallurgically is important and the frequency of annealing is very important so this is a good explanation of what and why. It is a little long, but for a good understanding of the process I think it is worth watching.

If you are a reloader, it has good points to know.



J E CUSTOM

A lot of worth while information is shared here. Thank You!
 
Is there any difference or does the fire cause any difference to brass between flame annealing and induction annealing or is it just a source of heat to work the soften the brass? Reason I ask is the cost of machines between the top induction annealer from the kiwi's (lots of R&D and very easy to use but you have to buy a lot of piolets) or the propane annealers that are out there on the market. And then there is always the home made one. Not that I need the best. Just curious. Personal opinion is the induction would be the most consistent.
Induction heating and torch get the parts hot either way.
Induction is very precise and repeatable. It heats the brass via electromagnetic processes without touching the cartridge at all. Highly controlled via a computerized process. Stores different brass programs in memory.
Torch method is direct flame impingement and is a little finicky to set up, and more attention required.
But, either works depending on the guy using it. I just bought an Anneal Eze torch setup. Graduated from socket, drill, sodering torch. Look at me go...
 
Induction heating and torch get the parts hot either way.
Induction is very precise and repeatable. It heats the brass via electromagnetic processes without touching the cartridge at all. Highly controlled via a computerized process. Stores different brass programs in memory.
Torch method is direct flame impingement and is a little finicky to set up, and more attention required.
But, either works depending on the guy using it. I just bought an Anneal Eze torch setup. Graduated from socket, drill, sodering torch. Look at me go...
Jeff makes a fine solid product for the money. It works very well and is made here in America. I am glad that I bought mine several years ago and it is just like a Timex. "It keeps on ticking"
If however I had the money I think I would kinda lean towards the induction unit. There are a few to choose from and perhaps readers could offer their views on theses units ?
 
I have asked about the Annie Annealer, but do not here much about it. It is the cheapest one I could find that is induction and can be had for double the price of the annealeze. I am not going to pay 1k plus for an Annealer, just cannot justify it, the most I will pay is the Annie Annealer and that is more than I really want to do. I think I am going to make my own, found a guy using two torches, galvanized pipe to hold the cartridge and knob on the side to turn the pipe over to empty the brass. Looks simple enough to setup do it in a dark room to watch necks to get my timing down. If it works, looks like I can do them for less than $50.00.
 
I have asked about the Annie Annealer, but do not here much about it. It is the cheapest one I could find that is induction and can be had for double the price of the annealeze. I am not going to pay 1k plus for an Annealer, just cannot justify it, the most I will pay is the Annie Annealer and that is more than I really want to do. I think I am going to make my own, found a guy using two torches, galvanized pipe to hold the cartridge and knob on the side to turn the pipe over to empty the brass. Looks simple enough to setup do it in a dark room to watch necks to get my timing down. If it works, looks like I can do them for less than $50.00.
Rather than do all of the above take another good look at Jeff Buck's Annealeeze # 2 .
It is solidly built, made in America, very reasonably priced , easy to set up and adjust, and renally does the job.
Just watch the videos and testimonials.
I for one am a convinced user!
 
Has anyone used a laser heat gun at any time in the process, as opposed to Templaq?
Yes I have. You must make certain that with the beam on your digital thermal infrared thermometer (or beams that you can capture your brass while it is in the flame and establish it's temperature.
Templaq 750 although messy needs to be used only once and just applied to one cas.. Once your initial set up is timed correctly you no longer need to use Templaq 750 ( I'm refereeing to the use of the Annealeeze #2 although similar propane units should behave the same way)
The only time you will need Templaq 750 again is if you change the caliber of cases you plan to anneal. This is true when you go from say a .308 caliber to a .300 Win Magnum. In this case you must change out the rollers and adjust the propane flame to intersect your brass where the neck and case shoulder meet. ( again referencing the Annealeze # 2 unit )
I for one don't think that you can get reliable results using a digital thermometer, as I am assuming that this is what you referring to. The beam spread is just too wide to any accuracy trying to register on brass shell case necks.
 
So I reloaded some once fired 6.5 HSM (not sure which company they use for there brass) brass and the necks were smooth and seem to be easy to resize. I just went through the cleaning process and resized them again. Not that they were difficult to size but I could tell the difference in the way they sized the other day. So this is the second sizing from being virgin brass. I can say these cases could probably use some annealing to produce some better results in case neck tension.
 
I thought a had another box of the 142 ABLR and I dont. So I'm kind of stuck at square 2 right now. Will have to see if I can find some somewhere. Also had to break into my second can of 100V powder. This may change some things. O well I keep looking. Supply are almost non existent everywhere.
 
The big advantage I see in annealing besides obvious increase in case life is neck tension consistency. I load for a wildcat and annealing is just a fact of life for me. It may seem a dark science but I've been heating just to the color change you see in factory Lapua cases while turning in my hand over a flame.
 
Has anyone ever tried to anneal the nickel plated win brass. I bought a box of 6.5 Creed with the 142 ABLR bullets for some shooting fun. Just got to thinking how these might anneal since they have the nickel coating on them. I reloaded some 243 brass like this in the past and they seem to work harden very quickly after about 3 firing and sizing's. Also I found some ABLR 142 bullets to keep testing.
 
Has anyone ever tried to anneal the nickel plated win brass. I bought a box of 6.5 Creed with the 142 ABLR bullets for some shooting fun. Just got to thinking how these might anneal since they have the nickel coating on them. I reloaded some 243 brass like this in the past and they seem to work harden very quickly after about 3 firing and sizing's. Also I found some ABLR 142 bullets to keep testing.
I've never tried it, but I suppose it could be done
 
I am in the process of putting together my on induction annealer and it can be done for about 150 and then a few other materials to connect it up and mount everything to. I think I will be able to do my 300 RUM down to something like 223. It has a digital clock timer and start button. No auto feeding or fancy trap door setup yet but maybe latter. This also included the price of 2 templaq bottle 1 750 and another 475. I will probably finish it up today. This is not my design but someone's off sniper hide. Nice little winter project and excited to see it work after its all put together.
 
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