Well said sirThe issue of how long is based on how much you size the brass and how hot you load them.
Some anneal every time they fire them so the bullet grip is consistently the same. This method
prevents any shift in POI. If your yardage is held to 2 or 300 yards it will be hard to see much difference in impacts. normally the Human factor is the difference.
I prefer to do this on the long range rifle cartridges and anneal every second or third firing on the less intense cartridges, or when one throws a flier. Fliers are normally shooter error unless you call a great shot and it goes out of the group anyway. Annealing and neck turning tends to eliminate this by improving the consistency of the bullet grip ,and this helps in accuracy. (Especially at long ranges.)
If you are happy with 1 MOA accuracy, much of this is not necessary. if you want or need 1/2 MOA accuracy, then it helps but if you want 1/4 MOA or less I feel it is a must.
Case prep is an evolutionary process that takes time and patients and is developed over time as the shooter gets better and demands better accuracy. So carry these process as far as you need or want, then relax and enjoy.
J E CUSTOM
The reason we anneal brass cases.
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Well said sir
oneeyejohn
Well-Known Member
Look at the Bench Source Annealer user manual on line and then you will know if you need to anneal. You don't have to buy the annealer to read the instructions.
Yep
esshup
Well-Known Member
Here's what you are asking about... I'm sure there are more out there.
https://kmshooting.com/product/arborpressbuilder/
One thing that I think people are forgetting about is the condition of the inside of the neck. I saw my SD figures drop when I switched from using Mica as a lube to using powdered graphite. A friend uses Imperial Sizing lube on a Q-tip to lube the inside of his necks before using an expander ball. Then of course he cleans the inside/outside of the case after resizing.
Hugnot
Well-Known Member
Looking at stuff like this would cause me to modify my approach using my cheapo setup. Should the brass necks be hard and have inconsistent spring back how can neck tension be uniform?
Deformation and Annealing of Cartridge Brass (vacaero.com)
Quote from above:
"Cold working increases the hardness of the alloy dramatically; a 400% increase was obtained going from the fully annealed condition to a 70% reduction in thickness"
Apparently thickness refers to the crystal . Annealing every 3-4 cycles sounds good.
Deformation and Annealing of Cartridge Brass (vacaero.com)
Quote from above:
"Cold working increases the hardness of the alloy dramatically; a 400% increase was obtained going from the fully annealed condition to a 70% reduction in thickness"
Apparently thickness refers to the crystal . Annealing every 3-4 cycles sounds good.
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Hugnot
Well-Known Member
This might affect or reduce cold welding.
esshup
Well-Known Member
I noticed that on some loaded rounds that were 2-3 years old when I had to pull bullets with a collet puller. Force required to get the bullets out were all over the place. Those cases were prepped with Mica.
Hugnot
Well-Known Member
I have noticed this effect in less than 4 months. I recently pulled some bullets from .22-.250 that were loaded into new brass and had no issues after 4 years. In other situations, I had to run the ammo thru a seat die to break the cold weld and heard and felt a noticeable POP when the bullets were seated some .025 deeper into the case. I don't know for sure what would reduce this. I plan to spin a stainless brush inside case mouths to see what happens. Reading stuff suggests cold welding is more likely to occur when bullets and brass contacts are clean but my experience shows different. Like glued in, replacing neck tension. Thanks for the response.
I just started using the drill and socket this week and looks like I'm getting it pretty close.
Been reloading about 30 yrs and this my first time annealing brass.
My gunsmith here in Albuquerque recommended that I try it (drill & socket).... Glad I did.
I don't mind spending the $$$ but would rather not if I don't have to.
If you have the funds the machines are nice but definitely not necessary
oneeyejohn
Well-Known Member
Look at the Bench Source Annealer user manual on line and then you will know if you need to anneal. You don't have to buy the annealer to read the instructions.
Thanks J E Custom very informative. David
Thanks J E Custom very informative. David
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
Everyone is making to big of an issue about the cost, and don't realize that good ammo will save you money and frustration when poor shots/groups plague you.
We dint have to buy the most expensive Annealer to get a good anneal. you just have to be consistent in what ever process you use. I built mine out of spare parts that was on hand to try and eliminate the Human factor. I was not very consistent with several methods I tried and with a Brinell Tester at hand, was able to find my short comings. So I went with something that eliminated the Human factor of timing and had to work at improving the set up for consistent results.
I only used Templaq to set the time and then ran the brass clean and polished to view and test the results. It is hard to hit the temperature on the head but the consistent annealing was greatly improved. Not everyone has access to a Brinell tester but you can be consistent.
The expensive machines will only cost more, they wont do any better that a less expensive unit set up correctly.
Get/use what you can, and work at getting consistency of results.
J E CUSTOM
We dint have to buy the most expensive Annealer to get a good anneal. you just have to be consistent in what ever process you use. I built mine out of spare parts that was on hand to try and eliminate the Human factor. I was not very consistent with several methods I tried and with a Brinell Tester at hand, was able to find my short comings. So I went with something that eliminated the Human factor of timing and had to work at improving the set up for consistent results.
I only used Templaq to set the time and then ran the brass clean and polished to view and test the results. It is hard to hit the temperature on the head but the consistent annealing was greatly improved. Not everyone has access to a Brinell tester but you can be consistent.
The expensive machines will only cost more, they wont do any better that a less expensive unit set up correctly.
Get/use what you can, and work at getting consistency of results.
J E CUSTOM
esshup
Well-Known Member
^^^ That's what I use the Templaq for also. If you look at what brass costs for a .338 Lapua, then the additional costs associated with making it into a 7mm Allen Magnum, then the cost of any annealing equipment is quickly returned.
As for the cold or age welding, I wonder if that problem is still there if Moly bullets were used? I don't shoot them, so there is no way I can test it.
Like all the other things in this game, the further you stretch your distance, the little things that aren't consistent are more apparent.
As for the cold or age welding, I wonder if that problem is still there if Moly bullets were used? I don't shoot them, so there is no way I can test it.
Like all the other things in this game, the further you stretch your distance, the little things that aren't consistent are more apparent.
