Tempilaq /Annealez

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by bob4, Aug 27, 2018.

  1. bob4

    bob4 Well-Known Member

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    I'm playing with the new Annealeez and have watched vids. Many talk about Tempilaq going clear.( 750 Degrees) I'm not seeing it. Mine goes black and shortly after that I'm sure my brass is over done. Necks start to glow, the orange flame is in full bloom. I have also watched a vid about watching your brass just starting to put off an orange flame and that's it STOP! That almost seems more dependable. Tell me what you do. This is the end result.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Dr. Vette

    Dr. Vette Well-Known Member

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    When the Tempilaq starts to burn, that's its temp point. The whole "go clear" thing had me questioning it too, but I found out that when it burns, it has reached its point.

    So, 600 degree Tempilaq will burn (or change to black) at 600 degrees.
     
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  3. Barrelnut

    Barrelnut Well-Known Member

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    I use a drill, socket, and flame and work for the color. Been years since I tried tempilaq. Used it on a couple cases and quit. It does turn black when done.

    Just finished these 24 cases a couple hours ago. I just try for consistency. And think I do stop just about the time the yellow flame starts. It should be easy to be "consistent" with the Annealez and that is what you want. I think your color is about right.
    IMG_20180827_164255.jpg
     
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  4. bob4

    bob4 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks both. I thought I was onto this. But the whole "it goes clear thing" Had me going. I mean clear and black are 2 different ends of the spectrum.
     
  5. bob4

    bob4 Well-Known Member

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    You have consistency down in my eyes.
     
  6. phorwath

    phorwath Well-Known Member

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    Tempilac never worked well for me either.
     
  7. Canhunter35

    Canhunter35 Well-Known Member

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    I also use a socket and a flame like barrelnut does and gave up on tempilaq. I don’t always have the blue line as perfect as barrelnut lol, but Ive still achieves good results
     
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  8. Deputy819

    Deputy819 Well-Known Member

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    Congrats on finally getting it. I know you were a little worried over not being able to get in touch with them. A good review of that machine would be helpful (at least for me). I was considering purchasing one and then I came across the Anneal-Rite II contraption (considerable less expensive/Not mechanized) and wasnt sure which direction to go.
     
  9. bob4

    bob4 Well-Known Member

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    There are certainly enough vids and reviews on the thing but here's my take. If you are even the slightest bit mechanically inclined it's a walk in the park to put this together. The machine doesn't come with greatest of directions but easy enough to put together with just 2 wrenches. I suggest having a 7/16 socket available for changing and tightening out the wheel kits if need be. (Found one of my wheels loose and it stopped turning.) The turnbuckle and hookeye are simple enough to get the flame centered on the brass. Although I think a better way can be found. By slightly adjusting the flame to get it the proper distance is simple. The hardest part, that wasn't that hard, was getting the timing right by simply turning a dial. Couldn't be much easier. I annealed about 35 cases in maybe 2-3 mins once set up was done.
     
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  10. Deputy819

    Deputy819 Well-Known Member

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    You're right...there are, but I lean pretty heavy on LRH member reviews/knowledge. Thanks for your input. ;)
     
  11. kiwikid

    kiwikid Well-Known Member

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    Hi Bob4, although you don't have an AMP machine you may find some very interesting info on their website under the heading Media then into annealing under the microscope. They dispell at lot of the common myths associated with annealing.
    www.ampannealing.com.
    Good luck.
    Kiwikid
     
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  12. jrock

    jrock Well-Known Member

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    I use the 750. I put it on the inside of the case neck and it burns/bubbles away in a split second so I have to watch closely. Since its on the inside of the neck, It's a bit harder to see what "color" change is going on. I just watch for the change itself. It's very consistent. I only use it to calibrate a machine to a case design. Once calibrated, the bottle just collects dust.

    I did the drill and socket for a long time. Found it was easier to build a machine and pile in the brass and walk away. Plus I like building things.