rharfo
Well-Known Member
I've never used Hornady dies until my PRC. I've used Redding and RCBS in a dozen calibers to include a 280 ACK.
Tell what I’m doing wrong.
- Thread starter rharfo
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Highlight the entire FL sized case with layout fluid or a sharpie. Cycle it through the chamber and look for rubbed off areas.
It would be nice to check headspace with a go and no go gauge set.
As for gaining more sizing ability, grind off a significant portion of the top of the shell holder and FL size again. You won't hurt the shellholder. Shell holders are cheap. If you grind off the end of the die there will be a burr formed at entrance that must be addressed. Dies are case hardened so grinding, sanding and polishing won't be as easy as grinding off material from the shell holder. An easy way to grind off shell holder is to hold it in vice grips and gently push it against the side of the grinder wheel which will keep it flat. Or if you have a belt sander use it instead. Cool off frequently.
There is another possibility. The base of the case is not being sized enough for easy chambering. I have encountered this with the 338 RCM, which is a twin to the 6.5 PRC from the shoulder to base. IMO the base is quite thick and often won't size properly because of springback. I tried Hornady dies, RCBS dies and even had Whidden make me a custom die set. The tightness still existed! I took the RCBS die and chucked it up in my lathe. Used a carbide tool bit to cut through the case hardened surface and removed the top and bottom of the die. This made a small base sizing die. Problem solved.
It would be nice to check headspace with a go and no go gauge set.
As for gaining more sizing ability, grind off a significant portion of the top of the shell holder and FL size again. You won't hurt the shellholder. Shell holders are cheap. If you grind off the end of the die there will be a burr formed at entrance that must be addressed. Dies are case hardened so grinding, sanding and polishing won't be as easy as grinding off material from the shell holder. An easy way to grind off shell holder is to hold it in vice grips and gently push it against the side of the grinder wheel which will keep it flat. Or if you have a belt sander use it instead. Cool off frequently.
There is another possibility. The base of the case is not being sized enough for easy chambering. I have encountered this with the 338 RCM, which is a twin to the 6.5 PRC from the shoulder to base. IMO the base is quite thick and often won't size properly because of springback. I tried Hornady dies, RCBS dies and even had Whidden make me a custom die set. The tightness still existed! I took the RCBS die and chucked it up in my lathe. Used a carbide tool bit to cut through the case hardened surface and removed the top and bottom of the die. This made a small base sizing die. Problem solved.
The Redding Shell holder set are taller than a standard shell holder to minimize sizing.
A standard shell holder is .125 the Redding Competition shell holders are in order .127, .129, .131, .133, and .135 tall. Most chambers are larger than standard dies and so with the Redding Competition shell holds you can customize your sizing by choosing the right one. Occasionally
you had a chamber smaller than the die such as the OP has. The solution is to shorten the distance between the shell holder and the shoulder of the die. The easy way to do this is to take the top of the shell holder off by the amount needed. In other words creating a reverse of the Redding Competition shell holders.
As has been mentioned before the simple way is to check with a feeler gauge and once the proper sizing is achieved take the thickness of the feeler gauge off the top of the shell holder.
You could also try other die and shell holder combinations in hopes of finding as set that works without any modifications.
A standard shell holder is .125 the Redding Competition shell holders are in order .127, .129, .131, .133, and .135 tall. Most chambers are larger than standard dies and so with the Redding Competition shell holds you can customize your sizing by choosing the right one. Occasionally
you had a chamber smaller than the die such as the OP has. The solution is to shorten the distance between the shell holder and the shoulder of the die. The easy way to do this is to take the top of the shell holder off by the amount needed. In other words creating a reverse of the Redding Competition shell holders.
As has been mentioned before the simple way is to check with a feeler gauge and once the proper sizing is achieved take the thickness of the feeler gauge off the top of the shell holder.
You could also try other die and shell holder combinations in hopes of finding as set that works without any modifications.
gohring3006
Well-Known Member
You're right! I answered this at 6 am when I just woke up, with no coffee. Lol
I was thinking totally opposite.
LOL I figured as much. We all have been there for sure. I was just trying to keep the OP on track.
gohring3006
Well-Known Member
Good catch.
Redding Competition shell holders should do the trick if you don't want to send the dies back to the Mfg. with a couple fired cases for them to fix the die
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012456684?pid=319992
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012456684?pid=319992
Ed read post #17 above. The Redding Competition shell holders will not help. They size the case less not more.
gohring3006
Well-Known Member
I always use a body die and lee collet die whenever available. If they're not I go with a fl bushing die without the expander.
I agree with #14. Get a set of Redding shell holders. They are graduated in .002 increments to let you bump/size more/less. I have one set of dies I store the correct shell holder with in the die box.
eschafer
Well-Known Member
REDDING COMPETITION SHELL HOLDERS, WILL NOT WORK !
It's not the shell holder, I just set up my prc dies last night. Had the same issue. There is a fine line on this brass between resizing the shoulder. I screwed the die way to far when I first started. You need a headspace gauge, I used the 420 size from Hornady. You are either not bumping the shoulder and stretching the case, or bumping way to much and messing up the brass.
I had this same thing happen with a 300 wsm for a buddies rifle. Slightly touching the shell holder didn't set shoulder back far enough. Turned the die 1/4 turn and had a solid cam over on press and cases chambered smooth afterward.
