Mark,
Thanks for your opinion. I'm starting to come around on some of these issues.
I've decided to go with either a 340 Weatherby or 338 RUM out of a 24" #2 countour unfluted. Do you think this is too light? Or too short? Adding an inch or two would add a ounce or two at most. Second, caliber is a 7 mm Rem Mag. out of a 24" #2 countour, basically to keep the feel of the rifle the same.
Stock will be a Lone Wolf Monte Carlo...about 2 pounds finished.
PT&G bottom metal (Aluminum...2.5 ounces)...PT&G will also do some bolt work (alum bolt shroud, flute the bolt (just for looks), alum or fluted firing pin).
I'm curious about the set screw set up. Sounds like I will be able to keep my stock SPS barrel and only have to buy a new barrel in 340 WM? Could give me some better instructions? Or do you think this is common among good smiths?
Thanks,
Scott
Scott, this is to some extent subjective. I am not experienced in the 338 RUM or 340 Wby. I am experienced with the 300 RUM and most will tell you you need at least 26" of barrel for good efficiency and many build 28" tubes with their large 338 cals. On the barrel contour a fluted barrel of equal weight will be stiffer than a non fluted barrel. So if you wanted a #2 non-fluted a # three fluted would would be roughly the same weight but a little stiffer. I just have reservations about fluting light contour barrels. In order to shoot long, high BC bullets out of a 338 RUM repeater, you will have to do some mods to your action and magazine (assuming we're talking about a 700). I know this from my 300 RUM experience. In the 300 RUM I use the one in chamber and one down technique to seat the long bullets to the lands. In order to shoot a 340 Wby, you should step up to a Mark V or equivilent. the 338 LM has a little shorter case than the RUM and about the same capacity as the edge. However, "some" smiths don't like putting it in a 700. If you want to shoot an efficient big 338, you're gonna need a good platform for it which will cost you weight.
My next "all around" hunting rifle for day trips or backpacking will be a 300-375 Ruger on a sub MOA Vanguard platform with a 26" med varm contour (.7 @ the muzzle) and it will weigh about 9 lbs or so with base, rings and scope. If I really want to shave it down, I could get a lighter stock and shorten and lighten the barrel a little and maybe get to less than 7. But I wont be shooting any RUM equivalent cartridges from it. I was actually thinking of doing a switch barrel for this, but probably wont.
On choosing barrel length and contour the rule is shorter = stiffer and less velocity. Longer barrels = more velocity and whip. Heavier barrels are stiffer and less susceptible harmonics. What you choose is basically up to you and your priorites. What you gain in one way, you'll loose in another. I would say that I would not chamber a RUM, etc, in a 24" barrel.
On the switch barrel, the idea came from Kiwi Nate. And that's about as much detail as I have. Fairly straight forward. I ran the idea past my smith and he was not thrilled about it, but I don't think I explained it well enough because he was concerned about headspace issues and the index and set screw would cure that. Haven't done it, but Nate has on his rig. Probably a good idea to contact him and make sure I got it right. Nate is the only one i know of that's done this. But sounds like a great idea to me. Usually, the recommendation is to use a barrel wrench and vice and that would probably requiring checking headspace. Another option is a Savage which has a good switch barrel set up but not as simple as the set screw.
You might be asking a bit much to combine a big 338 with a light backpacking hunting rifle?
Cheers,
Mark
