Switch barrel basics educate me

[TXAoudadKlr]

So I've been pondering taking my 300AX or Raptor and having a barrel of the same dimensions/contour spun up in 6.5x284 to do a switch barrel.

I know I'll need a bolt for the smaller bolt face but what all else goes into it? Is it just as simple as unscrewing one barrel off and and swapping on another and changing bolts? What about zero shifts when switching back?

 

[dok7mm]

I have 4 switchlug rifles built by West Texas Ordnance and zeros are close after changing same cartridge, but you have to tweak it a bit. Changing cartridges you'll have more adjustment.

 

[Longtine88]

I have 4 switchlug rifles built by West Texas Ordnance and zeros are close after changing same cartridge, but you have to tweak it a bit. Changing cartridges you'll have more adjustment.

Like how close to the same POI is it when you take it off then back on?

 

[dok7mm]

My zeros are all @100 yards. Barrels of same cartridge are within 1 moa when using same powder charges and bullets. You can expect slightly more if there's cartridge/bullet/powder changes. I have never personally had any 100 yd changes over 2 moa, even with different calibers and bullets.

You still have to fine tune zero for longer ranges.

The idea is saving extra actions, rails, triggers, scopes and stock costs in order to shoot multiple cartridges.

You need a good smith to time barrel shoulder for same indexing with all your barrels. I've had excellent results using Clayton @ WTO.

Because you have one stock, you need to use same brand & contour to fit your inlet.

 

[Longtine88]

I'm calling WTO tomorrow. I want one with a 22 creedmoor, a 6.5 creedmoor and 6.5 prc. I think that would be pretty cool. Or maybe a 7mm saw.

 

[dok7mm]

That would be a nice combo. He makes 2 stock options. Ask him about being able to just remove the barrel with action in stock (stock needs minor inlet) or pulling action out of stock (with no inletting). I chose the later.
David

 

[Longtine88]

Will do