Swarovski TDS Reticle?

DocGlenn

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2005
Messages
139
Location
North Georgia
Have anyone used this reticle for any long range shooting or hunting? If so how did it do. I'm looking for a light scope for my "sheep rifle" (.300 wsm Sako Finnlight) and this seems to be the lightest scope I can find with BDC. Would the Swaro be better than a Leupold with a custom reticle or BDC turrent? I'd like to be able to shoot to 600 yds if I had to. What do you guys think?
 
Doc,
Try a search on 'TDS'...you'll find plenty on this /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


...just did some scratchpad maths...the First Focal Plain TDS reticles are quite thick......a FFP TDS crosshair subtends 17mm at 100m ...so at 600yds; the crosshairs would be subtending approx 3.6inches.....too much target 'obscuration' for some.

You'll find more with a search!
 
I just set up a M70 in 300 Hart (300 wthby imp) shooting 180 SSTs at 3200 fps with a 6-18 Swarovski and TDS.

Center crosshair was at 300 and I think the bottom was at 836. Had a second set of ranges for 12x also.

Was my brothers gun and he took 3 deer with it this year from 400-650 yards and loved it.

I like the TDS reticle. I am looking for it in the Kahles right now.

For a pure carry LR hunting gun, I think it is an extremely good and accurate system and much faster than anything else. All he had to do was reconfirm zero at 300 and it was good to go for what he wanted.

BH
 
DocGlenn,

I have used the TDS-4 reticle. In fact my Swarovski 4-12x50 is for sale in the classifieds right now. For Big Game the reticle works very well. You just have to shoot at the ranges to confirm the hold/hash marks. Also, if you call Swarovski and give them your FPS and bullet BC they will give you the drop figures as they correspond to your load and then you just match that up to the right drop chart/sticker (they provide) and then shoot to confirm this info and your good to go. This reticle is good to about 600-700 yds. The reason I'm selling mine is I want to shoot varmints and shoot at longer ranges and using a scope to dial in range would be more precise. The scopes are very bright, very clear and very light. I'd reccomend going to your local sporting good store and taking one outside at dusk and compare it with some other scopes your looking at.

Also, The A Line scopes are 1" tubes and they are 2nd Focal plane. The 30mm Euro line is FFP and thats where subtension problems could arise. Just so you know.
 
Thanks for the feedback. It's good to hear from people that have actually used the TDS reticle in a hunting situation with success. I'm trying to decide between the Swaro w/ TDS, a leupold with a custom reticle and or custom turrent, and a zeiss conquest with a custom turrent. Any "real world" feed back that I can get will help me make up my mind (or it could confuse me more /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif). Anyway thanks again!
 
I put one on a GA 300 wsm Non-Typical and think it makes a great setup. I got a 3X12X50 Tds so changing magnification does not change my settings I like it that way. When I was seting up my scope I placed a target a 100 yards and found that the distance between the lines were as follows:

First Line Dead On
Second Line 2 inch drop 2 moa
Third Line 5 inch drop 5 moa
Fourth Line 8 inch drop 8 moa
Fifth Line 11 inch drop 11 moa

I know that the moa is not exactly correct but this is what I worked up in a hury and these are rough estimates.

Work this into your 300 wsm and I think you should be able to get 600 yards no problem.

Mine worked out to be

first line dead on at 200
second line 300
third line 450
Fourth line 550
fifth line 650

I shot it out to 300 and it is on the money, and I know this in not a long shot but I did use the third line on a Coyete at 460 and rolled him.

I like the scope so much /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gifI put one on my 45-70 and worked out a drop chart using the MOA I posted above,

and like it was said earlier Go to the range and check these drops this is just what I came up with and have not tried them at 550 and 650 at this time.

Hope this helps.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
Docglenn,

I have two Swarovski's with the TDS. A 4x-16x and 6x-24x both PH 30mm tube.

I have used the 4-16 for several years and the 6-24 for about a year. I like the TDS retical and agree with the pevious post that it is quick and simple. It has enough lines to be effective at moderate ranges (to 700yds or so)but not so many as be confusing in a hunting situation. I also agree that it is best used for big game, rather than varmint hunting for the reasons given.

I used my 6-24 last August on a Dall sheep hunt in Alaska. It was mounted to a 338RUM by HS Precision. I used it to take a ram at 503 yards. Following is how the retical works with the 338 and the load I was shooting on that hunt.

100yards = +3" (main crosshair)
200yards = +3.5" (main crosshair)
300yards = -1" (main crosshair)
400yards = -4" (first line down)
500yards = +1" (second line down)
600yards = +4" (third line down)
700yards = +8" (fourth line down)

In my experience it has been impossible to get the line to fall exactly on one hundred yard increments. I simply shoot it to establish all the yardages and how much +/- I may be at a given range. I then make up a range card that duplicates the view of the retical with a note to the side of each line with the +/- at each range. This has worked well for me and I have used it to take a lot of game in the 500 yard + range with my longest being 657 yards on an elk.

I have since gravitated toward Night Force and target turrets to dial up my yardage. Dialing up has the advantage of being more precise, which becomes increasingly important as the range increases.....or the size of the target decreases. The TDS retical does has the advantage of being quick and simple to use, so..........For big game out to 700 yards, it is great, for longer ranges or smaller game.....you should think about target turrets and dialing up your elevation.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 19 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top