Stuck 243 in the RCBS full length resizer die

[epoletna]

Cleaning your die might have been the problem. I clean new dies with brake cleaner (or similar), but then I shoot a shot of One Shot inside the die and let it completely dry before using it. And I use Imperial Sizing wax on the case body. This has made resizing a lot easier.

Another problem with using .308 brass necked down (even with the intermediate step you used) is neck thickness with the finished product. I know you mentioned that you were aware of this, but many years ago I experienced this problem and found the only thing I could do to rectify it was to full length resize without an inside neck resizing button, then inside ream. This was in the days before anyone neck turned the outside of necks, which I now do on other calibers.

Bottom line: stick with brass that has the original .243 head stamp from the factory, and that has been fired in the chamber you are resizing for.

 

[budlight]

These were Winchester 243 brass. I don't think that I've ever seen a 243 steel case. that's more like cheap 223 and AK47 crap.

I just will be ordering a new full length Lee. I kinda like them over the replaceable pin RCBS. I do use quality competition bullet seaters.

If someone wants to take out a patent on my stuck case remover I would split it with you

 

[rewiltshire]

Try putting some JB paste on an oiled up cleaning pad wrapped around an nylon bore brush that fits tight and polish up the inside to make sure there isn't something in the chamber of the die. Be sure to clean the die thoroughly afterwards and put a little lube inside. Ditto on the Imperial wax.

 

[Teri Anne]

I haven't had my *** kicked reloading before. I haven't reloaded 243 in years because I loaded all my empty cases and sorted everything. But it was antelope draw year so I brought out my Rem SPS 26 inch Varminter. We both have one and sighted in and practiced for days shooting a few hundred 105's.

So yesterday I set up the single stage for resizing. Lubed everything like normal and the third case got stuck in the die. The single stage arm got hard at the end to close so I stopped and went the other way and it tore the edges of the rim off. Years ago I thought up the grand idea of how to remove cases by 1/4 inch drill down through the primer pocket, 5/16 20 tap to thread it. Install a 5/6th all thread rod through the threaded primer pocket. Then just run a nut down the all thread on top of a 9/16th 12 point tall socket and it pulls the case right out of the die. No problem other than drilling and tapping the stuck case.

so I thoroughly clean the die inside and out in the solvent tank. blow dry and even spray lube up inside the die. next case gets stuck again. Same taping....... to remove it. So I think that maybe these rounds have been shot a couple of times before so I anneal all the cases to soften them up. die gets really cleaned again and I lube up an annealed case and it get stuck. I removed it again and said **** on RCBS new looking 243 full length die. I got out my neck sizer and finish all the cases.

My problem is that I can't see anything wrong? Got any guesses?

I ran into a similar incident when using Hornady One Shot case Lube. Love the stuff but it seems that even with shaking the can before each use the release agent dissipates with each use until there are primarily only carriers present in the spray. When used as directed it is absolutely amazing lubing the case as well as case neck. Just note that if suddenly there seems to be more friction when resizing retire the can and open another before cases start sticking.

 

[GRG]

I have had the same experience so did just as mentioned above. Use JB bore paste on a brush or tight swab and polish die, the die is hardened so should not change dimensions but will remove foreign material. Also I have had problems with using One Shot and realized I was not shaking can enough and not letting it dry enough. Once I made this change I haven't stuck a case.

 

[rewiltshire]

I ran into a similar incident when using Hornady One Shot case Lube. Love the stuff but it seems that even with shaking the can before each use the release agent dissipates with each use until there are primarily only carriers present in the spray. When used as directed it is absolutely amazing lubing the case as well as case neck. Just note that if suddenly there seems to be more friction when resizing retire the can and open another before cases start sticking.

Dillon has a spray on lube that works very well. And it's a pump, not an aerosol. You know "good to the last drop" - LOL

 

[budlight]

The story turns out great! I have a bottle of Castrol chrome wheel polishing compound. I have soft gun brushes of all sizes. i polished the heck out of it and cleaned in hot water and blew it out with an air nozzle. I lubed up a case with my RCBS pad with STP oil treatment, yes i do have one shot spray lube.

but anyway i ran three cases through it without any effort at all! Kinda disappointed to not get some new 243 die like lee and get away from the RCBS replaceable pin deal

 

[BHP9]

I've been using the Lee Case Lube. Water soluable so you don't have to wipe the case afterwards unless you want to.

The only time I had a stuck case was my fault, not enough lube.

 

[Teri Anne]

I did have one issue many years ago with a stuck 30-06 case, was most likely my fault, not enough lube on the pad or whatever else reason.I removed the die from the press and lightly camped it into a vise then took the decapping/neck resizing pin out the top of the die. I inserted a new primer in the case to fill the primer pocket (Primer was going to be junk anyway after I was done. I filled the cavity in the die/case with WD40 and left it overnight and found that some WD40 had leaked out. Took a short length of 1/8 welding rod stuck it down into the die and tapped lightly with my brass hammer. It only took a couple of light taps and the stuck case popped out. Worked well, however in a Blonde moment did not think to place any paper towels or anything underneath the case in the vise. End result was WD40 on the toe of my left shoe and on the floor which fortunately was concrete. LOL...if you use this method don't forget the lesson learned by my Blonde Moment.

 

[jjmp]

Clean brass helps to start with, dirty brass in any die is a No/Go. I clean my dies with wd40 and 1.8 inch square cotton bed sheets, disassemble for die, wet patch with wd40,use the eraser end of a #2 wood pencil and turn the patch in a twisting motion and push it out the neck of the die , look through the die from the bottom end ,while using a strong light ,wet patch it till they come out stean, use a stick- pin to clean out the Vent hole if blocked . Ok die looks clean now dry patch it to take the wd40 film out !. Same cotton patch UN-sprayed swab it out with that twisting motion ,ps use 3-4 patch's , then wipe down your die stem parts with wd40 and dry them , reassemble die and set it up in your press. I use rcbs lube and 50/50 rcds dies and Redding , also use rcbs lib pad , note when dirty wash it in warmer soap water and let dry overnight, I turn my cases on the lube pad one this way the other the opposite about 8 at a time ,had a rcbs tech tell me to lightly lube the outside and inside of the brass case before resizing it , so I use my fingers for the out side and a que-tip end lubed for the inside . To remove remove rcbs lube , I use a cut off pice 4 inch's long of a cotton sock , spray it wd40 and then wipe that off with a dry cotton piece of old sock 4 inchs , reason for above is I never tumble my lunes off my brass ,I hand wipe them , Someone mentioned annealing yes it Very benificial, cheers!!!. Hope this helps someone !