Don't know if I'm an expert, but I'll chime in...
I love to see guys take on projects like this. You'll get a real sense of accomplishment when your finished.
You can use the 3/4" boards or even go thinner for a different look. Make sure they are planed well, and rough sanded before you epoxy them together.
Most importantly, make sure they are of acceptable moisture content. You need to know what the moisture is!! There are relatively cheap moisture meters out there, and I suggest you buy one. A laminated blank made with boards that have a high moisture content will still move over time as the moisture slowly leaves the boards. You don't need to have an education in " free water" cells and "barrier" cells, you just need to make sure they are dry..
If using domestic hardwood, a simple cleaning of the boards with solvent is recommended. Exotics can be tricky depending on the specie you use. Get in touch with me if you decide to go with the exotics, and I'll give you all the info you need on the different species and their characteristics to glueing.
There are a few different options on holding the boards together while the epoxy dries. The standard wood clamps will work well, a hydraulic press can also be used. I used to use both, but switched to a vacuum bag years ago.
Search the web, and you'll see that there are many different types of epoxies that can be used. My favorite has always been a polyurethane glue. Whatever you use, make sure you have complete coverage, and proper clamping.
Once the blank is glued, you'll want to cut it to shape with a band saw, then plane the topside. Depending on what size boards you use, and how many... You'll want to indicate your inlet on the middle of the center board, or on the glue line in the center of the blank.
A properly glued up blank will make a fine finished project.
Feel free to get in touch with me if you want more information, I'll be happy to tell you what I've learned over the years....