Sticking cocking piece on sear?

MagnumManiac

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2008
Messages
3,160
Hi all,
Have an issue on a new Rem 700 Sendero II in 300WM RR serial #.
After firing, if you lift the bolt and do not withdraw it and attempt to re-cock the firing pin, it just falls and when you open the bolt again to withdraw the bolt there is a hesitation and the cocking piece is held until an audible click is heard and the bolt withdraws easy peasy. If you pass this click and go forward again, the bolt cocks normally.
Now, I have dismantled the firing pin assembly from this bolt and swapped them from other bolts I have, none but this one do it no matter what bolt or rifle it’s put into.
Is it simply the ramp on the cocking piece is too high/proud and is getting stuck in the sear?
I have not come across this before.
I was thinking of stoning, but that may take a long time to remove.

Anyone have an insight on this?

Cheers.
TIA.
 

ShtrRdy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2012
Messages
3,481
Location
High Plains
It sounds like the cocking piece hand off timing is off. Since you have other Remington bolts try measuring the distance between the feature on the cocking piece that rides in the bolt cocking ramp to the Sear engagement portion of the cocking piece. Compare this measurement between a "good" and "bad" cocking piece.
 

MagnumManiac

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2008
Messages
3,160
Ok I will try that, looks like it is a timing issue already, the gap is large even without measuring it.
How hard are the handles to remove?

Cheers.
 

cahunter805

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2010
Messages
530
Ok I will try that, looks like it is a timing issue already, the gap is large even without measuring it.
How hard are the handles to remove?

Cheers.
RR actions have terrible primary extraction. My last one had pretty much zero.
I opted to have Dan at Accutig install a new properly timed handle and it’s much better now. You just need to use feller gauges and supply a few simple measurements and ship it to him.
 

ShtrRdy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2012
Messages
3,481
Location
High Plains
RR actions have terrible primary extraction. My last one had pretty much zero.
I opted to have Dan at Accutig install a new properly timed handle and it’s much better now. You just need to use feller gauges and supply a few simple measurements and ship it to him.
I believe the OP has a different problem than Primary Extraction. Please read his description carefully.
 

MagnumManiac

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2008
Messages
3,160
RR actions have terrible primary extraction. My last one had pretty much zero.
I opted to have Dan at Accutig install a new properly timed handle and it’s much better now. You just need to use feller gauges and supply a few simple measurements and ship it to him.
Thanks, unfortunately I’m on the other side of the pond here in Australia.
If the handle is sweated on like I think they are, then it should be easy to remove and then sweat it back on in the correct position.
I’ve never had to deal with bolt timing on Remingtons before, but this one is funky, to say the least. I just paid $675 for a replacement from the Remington dealer here, plus $100!!!! for the plunger ejector, spring and pin.
I’m not going through that again.

Cheers.
 

cahunter805

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2010
Messages
530
I believe the OP has a different problem than Primary Extraction. Please read his description carefully.
I understand what the problem is and you gave him a solution but the OP mentioned removing the handle so hence my response.
 

ShtrRdy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2012
Messages
3,481
Location
High Plains
I understand what the problem is and you gave him a solution but the OP mentioned removing the handle so hence my response.
When you wrote this I thought, "oops, i didn't read the original post carefully." So i re-read the original post carefully and i don't see anything about "removing the handle".
 

cahunter805

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2010
Messages
530
Thanks, unfortunately I’m on the other side of the pond here in Australia.
If the handle is sweated on like I think they are, then it should be easy to remove and then sweat it back on in the correct position.
I’ve never had to deal with bolt timing on Remingtons before, but this one is funky, to say the least. I just paid $675 for a replacement from the Remington dealer here, plus $100!!!! for the plunger ejector, spring and pin.
I’m not going through that again.

Cheers.
You can remove the handle and sweat it back on but will need to make a tool to hold it in place in the correct position. Also you will need some heat stop putty so you don’t heat the bolt head to much.
There are some good YouTube videos on it.
I assumed you were asking about the handle in addition to your cocking piece problem.
 
Last edited:

kiwikid

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
599
Location
New Zealand
Hi all,
Have an issue on a new Rem 700 Sendero II in 300WM RR serial #.
After firing, if you lift the bolt and do not withdraw it and attempt to re-cock the firing pin, it just falls and when you open the bolt again to withdraw the bolt there is a hesitation and the cocking piece is held until an audible click is heard and the bolt withdraws easy peasy. If you pass this click and go forward again, the bolt cocks normally.
Now, I have dismantled the firing pin assembly from this bolt and swapped them from other bolts I have, none but this one do it no matter what bolt or rifle it’s put into.
Is it simply the ramp on the cocking piece is too high/proud and is getting stuck in the sear?
I have not come across this before.
I was thinking of stoning, but that may take a long time to remove.

Anyone have an insight on this?

Cheers.
TIA.
Hi Magnum,

Just to get this clear in my mind,

You removed the firing pin assembly from the faulty rifles bolt and fitted a firing pin assembly from a known good bolt and when you tried that in the faulty rifle it functioned correctly, am I correct?

If this is the case I don't believe it is to do with the position of where the bolt handle is sweated on. If the bolt handle is in the wrong place you should experience the same problem no matter what firing pin assembly is in that bolt.
 

cahunter805

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2010
Messages
530
When you wrote this I thought, "oops, i didn't read the original post carefully." So i re-read the original post carefully and i don't see anything about "removing the handle".
Ok I will try that, looks like it is a timing issue already, the gap is large even without measuring it.
How hard are the handles to remove?

Cheers.
It was in his second post. I assumed he was asking about the handle/ timing problem in addition to the cocking piece problem.
 

MagnumManiac

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2008
Messages
3,160
To answer your original question, it has nothing to do with the bolt handle or primary extraction. Your Ignition Timing is off, ShtrRdy has pointed you in the correct direction, your handoff to sear is not correct.
Yes, this is the problem.
Have just spent hours tearing down bolts and measuring stuff from the RR serial # and comparing to 80’s vintage bolts here, it is way off.
So, my question now is, having not seen this before, how do I fix the issue?

Cheers.
 

MagnumManiac

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2008
Messages
3,160
It also has an extraction issue, I was trying to say this earlier, but my mind was not working right. So frustrated that these NEW rifles need so much work done to them.
Swapping bolts, followers, bottom metal and triggers.
It never seems to end.
Sort of glad Remington have fallen, maybe whoever takes them over picks up the slack.

Cheers.
 

Recent Posts

Top