Steve Shelp

[Brent]

It seems you're email is not recieving, here is something that might help you with your ISP.

Your message cannot be delivered to the following recipients:

Recipient address: [email protected]
Reason: Remote SMTP server has rejected address
Diagnostic code: smtp;550 5.1.1 <[email protected]>... User unknown
Remote system: dns;outdrs.com (TCP|208.138.130.80|45599|216.122.176.213|25) (outdrs.com ESMTP Sendmail 8.11.6/8.11.0; Fri, 31 Jan 2003 15:50:07 -0700 [MST])

 

[texas]

I tried also and got the same message.

 

[Steve Shelp]

Try again fellas. I don't think they have all the problems fixed yet, but I've been able to sent myself messages from my work account to my personal account and they come through now.
If they don't come through and get rejected again, I'll take this info back to the ISP. They're working with me and being good about it, so I'll give them the benefit of the doubt. They were doing a large server upgrade/migration Wed/Thurs is what started all of this.

Talk to you later and thanks for the help!

Steve

 

[Brent]

Will try you now Steve. Good luck there.

 

[Brent]

Steve, I just got a message right back it failed to deliver...

I'll just post it here with some other stuff I learned in the meantime.

 

[Brent]

teve,

Thanks for all the help on the Yogi, I've set my mind on one too... finally.

My dad seems to be in no rush on the Yogi now????? He has 6.5wsm on the brain now and is getting a 32" 9 twist Pacnor (just ordered today) and the 338 took a back seat it seems?????

Man he drives me nuts some times.

At least I may have it all figured out and so he'll follow suite. Oh, I almost forgot, I showed him the pic you posted when I was at his place, he was impressed to say the least... I think that just hooked him, thanks for that one, quick thinkin there!

I need your opinion on something, I think you might have a good idea how this would work out, I'll explain...

I have a 1.350" to the muzzle, 3 groove, 11 twist Lilja barrel I just dropped off at Daves, my smith. He is trading me out some work on building this nice bench/hunting rifle for my wife. I want it to work well with a rest and a bipod, well as well as it can on a bipod with this large of barrel. Just a little more portable than a full blown bench gun you might say, so she'll be able to handle it easier by herself if she wants.

Here goes...A suggestion Dave made was instead of using a big block on this one, he could put a 9-10" block/recoil lug combination on just the underside of the barrel attaching it to the barrel, bedding it the same way he does with a normal block free floating the rest of the barrel and action completely. We could use about a 2.5" wide forend type tactical stock with the but heavily leaded for a little counter weight with it still looking normal and just a little more compact than with a full blown block and larger stock?

To tell you the truth I had my doubts at first. The more I think about it though, the more I think it might work well. He guarantees it will shoot small holes like this just as well as using a full block. What are your thoughts on this?

The other thing is, I want to go with the Lapua cartridge here too and was going to just neck down the 338 Lapua, improved of course but REALLY want to get good dies that match my chamber as you have done. Now I'm looking for this reamer too or I'll have to get one made.

I would also like a tight neck chamber too. How tight, not sure. What do you think on this too? How tight is your Yogi chamber? I'll turn necks, it's not that big of deal to me really. The way I am, I'd probably feel better knowing I did.

He wanted to get started chambering it tomarrow! I had to pull the reins back a bit and break it to him, I wasn't ready at all yet, I just wanted to start working on a plan of how we were going to bed it first and I'd work on what I wanted for a reamer and dies in the next day or two.

Dave said there is two seperate dies needed for doing the dies and chamber, the die reamer is smaller. My head is spinning with all the details just concerning dies and reamers at this point.

What I want is a bushing type neck die (no lubing cases) for main use.
A body die or FL bushing type die only for when needed.
A seater, doesn't need to be micro top, just concentric and quality made.

I like the dies that have the sleeve that guides the case before it hits the bushing or seater plug though, I would prefer this kind in all the dies if I can get them. Do you know who has them in blanks or who will make them?

Dave said he will ream the dies and then return them to be hardened afterward.

I could have sworn you said your chamber and dies were made with one reamer in one set up and that leaves me kind of confused a bit as to how many reamers this takes to do both?

Thank you for all the help, time, AND... all of the typing too.


Take care,
Brent

 

[Brent]

Here's an add, Jay sent me this today and it looks nice, I'll probably have Dave make one of these insted. It would be easier to set the barrel back down the road if needed. Stll curious on how you think the other setup would shoot though.

Jay pointed out that stress would be introduced because cooling wasn't even around the barrel etc. Here's some pics he sent me of the blocks he makes.

Here's what he said about them;

Barrel blocks for 1.45 dia. barrels. 2" wide, 6", 9" and 10"
length, 5/16" cross bolts, 1/4" tapped holes in the bottom, hole reamed through the block. The wall thickness and width of the two 45 deg. bevels and the top surface are all the same. 6061-T6 aluminum material.
You have to have a couple of holes for the trigger guard and I have pillars below the alum. block to accept socket head cap screws.

The McMillans are so user friendly, cheap if you consider that
they are finished and work great. This stock has some steel bars in
the rear of the stock for weight. Total is about 16.5#, used for 1000
yard BR. This year I switched from a 1:8" twist to a 1:9" twist,
Lilja HV profile, 6.5-284 cal. Shot it in six matches, this year, and
had two 7" groups of 10 shots at 1k.

On the 16.5# gun I just use tall bases and high rings. The bases are just some that I made up, like a two story affair, used some homemade parts and some Leu. parts. You can get a lot of "tilt" by using Burris Signature rings with the nylon inserts. Many of us use those exclusively on our rifles, now. They hold better than metal to metal and allow you to change inserts for course adjustment when mounting scopes. On the Heavy guns, I just mill a bar with 20 to 30 min. of angle tilt and adapte a Leu. base to the bar. For big Nesika and BAT actions I mill a Weaver style base and mill the underside with the correct radius to match the receiver, have put as much as 1 deg. of tilt on them.


I'll send more info later.

Jay

[ 02-01-2003: Message edited by: Brent ]