Some help with a new Elk rifle please

[Majja13]

Ok so here is the deal. I may be just that I have the itch for a new hunting rifle here but I think it is time to retire my A-bolt 300wm. I live and hunt Utah and I chase Elk every October. Long story short is I have lost faith in the 21 year old A-bolt. I bought it back in 1993 (took a big hiatus from hunting ) And have gotten pretty serious about it over the last 7 ish years. I have always been a Browning fan boy since I grew up about 2 miles form corp HQ and my mom worked there so I cut my teeth on Browning catalogs.

I originally thought of making a few minor changes to mine but have come to the conclusion that I could probably have a new custom for what a barrel and stock would cost. So I am looking at my options. With a wife and 2 kids I cannot afford to blow a lot of $$ at this but am willing to save and even sell the currant 300 if I need to.

The need, I want something that will be a good walking gun. We do a lot of hiking to find the critters. Most shots will be int he 100-200 Yd range. The topology is usually between 9500 and 11000 feet elevation and anywhere form timber to wide open meadows.

I have been kinda of looking at some of the new offerings and just do not know where to go. I do not mind the 300 WM but if I get a new one will break it, as I want to remove the muzzle jump no the recoil. I missed the dream shot last year (my fault I over swung him when he stopped right as I broke the trigger) I have been toying around with the ideas of the Ruger All Americans in 6.5/308/7mm-08 or even a second 300 WM.

Fire away I am open to any suggestions. Fist choice would be to keep the Browning and add. so the price range I would say around 500-600 max. I value reliability and accuracy over Brand loyalty.

Thank You

 

[North Idaho Hunter]

on a tight budget? dont care about what the rifle looks like?

ruger american in 308. itll do everything you need it to do with the ranges you hunt. its amazing how stupid good those things shoot for how little they cost.

 

[Majja13]

Not to picky on how it looks just want it to shoot.

 

[Dr. Vette]

Most shots will be in the 100-200 Yd range.


Fire away I am open to any suggestions.
Thank You

How bad does the Browning shoot that you don't trust it to shoot 200 yards? Even if you can hit a 12 inch target, you've got a dead elk.

I'd clean it and clean it with Bore-Tech Eliminator, patches and nylon brushes. Use their copper cleaner if needed. Be sure the barrel is dry inside before starting to shoot it.

See how it shoots, and then think about pillar bedding it and floating the barrel at that point. Find the best load you can, factory or otherwise, and go shooting.
Add a brake if you want to minimize recoil, but then you will have to wear hearing protection in the field.

There is probably a lot that can be done with that rifle for not a lot of $ that will get you where you want to go.

 

[Majja13]

It is probably a 1 1/2 to two MOA all day long. I have never really tried doing extended groups with it.
I am playing with loads actually right now. I dont mind the recoil just the muzzle jump.

I will give it a good cleaning as you suggest and see what she actually does.

Thanks for the different thoughts

 

[Dr. Vette]

I would not be surprised if 1) there is a factory load it would shoot well, and 2) a good bedding job would get you a long way. To add to previous, a Timney trigger spring and adjusting the trigger down will also help.

After cleaning, I'd probably do the trigger spring and bed it (or have it bedded) and then start shooting.

Make sure you buy a torque screwdriver, like the FAT wrench, to properly torque the action in place.

 

[RockyMtnMT]

I'm with DrVette. I think a good break added to the rifle will help a bunch. Also a trigger job to get it down to where it does not effect the shot.

You could order a barrel or look on the barrel manufacture web sites to see what they have on hand. Pay ~$400 for a barrel and ~$250 for the smith to do the re barrel in what ever caliber you want. This is less than a new rifle and a semi custom that will more than likely shoot better. If you want a break figure another $200 or so installed.

It sounds to me like a new rifle is appealing, so I would go the semi custom route. You will have a better than factory rifle for the same or less money.

Steve

 

[old_heli_logger]

I agree with the guys saying to keep your A-Bolt. Brush out your carbon ring (you can feel it when you're cleaning it). Develop a Handload with the heaviest Sierra Gameking that your barrel will stabilize or shoot a bunch of different factory ammo until you find what your rifle likes and fill the freezer.
Good luck!

 

[snowpro440]

Like heli logger said and if that don't work then order a new barrel blank from Krieger and get a smith to chamber it for the ammo you want to shoot with a little tighter chamber than a factory sloppiness . You will be amazed at how much better they can shoot .

 

[Barrelnut]

Well I have an old original A-Bolt. Have had it since 1987 and have a soft spot for it. So, I started to stay out of this but......

Lots of good ideas here but I will go against the grain and say sell the rifle and buy something else.

Reasons:
* You have somewhat lost faith in it. (Maybe time for a change)
* It doesn't shoot as well as it used to.
* You want something with a brake and less muzzle jump.
* Factory rifles have gotten a LOT more accurate since 1993.
* Old A-Bolts have trigger issues and if it doesn't already, it will soon start to have a rough gritty pull that cannot be fixed. The trigger will have to be replaced. And I am not sure an A-Bolt II trigger will fit. Have to call Browning on that. Also no matter what, Browning triggers aren't that great and about all you can do to lower the pull weight is with a set of aftermarket Timney trigger springs that get mixed reviews.
* There are also issue with the Browning action. (No gas ports at the front for a ruptured case. The only thing to stop the gases from hitting your face is the enlarged bolt shroud....
* The stocks don't bed well because the back screw actually part of the trigger housing and you cannot tighten it down much without affecting the trigger pull.

So, I would sell it and get a Savage Bear hunter in 300 Win mag.

Reasons:
* Stay with the 300 Win because you elk hunt.
* Comeswith an on/off break so you can use it when you want.
* The Savage Accutrigger is one of, if not the best, factory triggers made and is easily adjustable down to 2.5 lb.
* Savage rifles are some of the most accurate factory rifles made right now. The rifle will more than likely shoot 1/2 MOA or better right out of the box.
* The stock is excellent with a full aluminum bedding block that will negate having to have it custom bedded.
* Has a 23" barrel (21" + 2" break). This is a tad short for true long range work ( 700 yard plus) but you are shooting 100~200 yards. The shorter barrel is lighter, stiffer , and quick handling. This is important since you hike and shoot at game that you jump sometimes.
* The rifle just looks great with the camo stock and stainless steel action and barrel.
* The rifle weighs 7.75 LB.
* Oh, one more thing. The Savage safety is a lot like the Browning safety, which you are no doubt very familiar with now. It is a thumb safety in the same location. The big difference is the Savage safety has "three" positions. The 3rd position allows you to unload the rifle with the safety on. The 2 position Browning safety cannot do that. That's a big plus IMO.

Here's a link to the specs: Savage Arms

Sell the Browning for 350 ~ 450. The Savage Bear Hunter for $860 online at BudsGunShop. Now you have a brand new kickass hunting rifle that fits your needs perfectly for around $500 dollars! You will never fix the Browning for that AND you don't have to deal with a smith and scarce barrels and replacement parts.

Also, if you want to change barrels in the future, You can change the barrel yourself. No labor fees and waiting for a smith to get around to it.

IMO, you cannot go wrong with this route.

Good Luck

 

[CogburnR]

600$?

200 yards?

Go buy a 270WSM M70 synthetic and put a 2-7 Burris Ballistic plex on it.

Either do the trigger yourself or have someone do it. Dead reliable, shoots and functions well. Go to go to 500 yards.

 

[pburton]

If I were you, given your budget and normal shooting range and conditions, I would sell the Browning. I would then take a look at a Tikka. They are light and accurate for a factory rifle. As far as caliber, I think that this is a personal choice. But, my opinion is that if you are planning on shots from 100-200 yards you do not need a 300wm. There are a lot of other calibers that would be suitable for elk at the ranges you are talking. .308, 30-06, 270 win, 270wsm, etc. I have two of them. One .243 that my son shoots and one in .270wsm. Both are very accurate for factory rifles and in your price range. Good luck with your decision.

 

[LoneTraveler]

Cleaning the bore, Removing Carbon ring, Check bedding, Check Scope and Mounts are all good suggestions. You say you have had the Browning for 21 years. My suggestion would be Check The Firing Pin Spring and Replace it. Brownell's lists a new spring for about 5 bucks, Plus Postage. Cheap fix. Even if you put it up for sale. Accurate rifles are worth more.

I have brought several rifles back to their youth and prime, By replacing the firing pin spring. If the firing pin does fire the primer exactly the same every shot accuracy will suffer. Good Luck

 

[MudRunner2005]

Ok so here is the deal. I may be just that I have the itch for a new hunting rifle here but I think it is time to retire my A-bolt 300wm. I live and hunt Utah and I chase Elk every October. Long story short is I have lost faith in the 21 year old A-bolt. I bought it back in 1993 (took a big hiatus from hunting ) And have gotten pretty serious about it over the last 7 ish years. I have always been a Browning fan boy since I grew up about 2 miles form corp HQ and my mom worked there so I cut my teeth on Browning catalogs.

I originally thought of making a few minor changes to mine but have come to the conclusion that I could probably have a new custom for what a barrel and stock would cost. So I am looking at my options. With a wife and 2 kids I cannot afford to blow a lot of $$ at this but am willing to save and even sell the currant 300 if I need to.

The need, I want something that will be a good walking gun. We do a lot of hiking to find the critters. Most shots will be int he 100-200 Yd range. The topology is usually between 9500 and 11000 feet elevation and anywhere form timber to wide open meadows.

I have been kinda of looking at some of the new offerings and just do not know where to go. I do not mind the 300 WM but if I get a new one will break it, as I want to remove the muzzle jump no the recoil. I missed the dream shot last year (my fault I over swung him when he stopped right as I broke the trigger) I have been toying around with the ideas of the Ruger All Americans in 6.5/308/7mm-08 or even a second 300 WM.

Fire away I am open to any suggestions. Fist choice would be to keep the Browning and add. so the price range I would say around 500-600 max. I value reliability and accuracy over Brand loyalty.

Thank You

I built a custom off of my old A-Bolt II that the barrel went south on... Granted, I used a new factory take-off 26" Rem 700 barrel, that we milled-down the shank and tennon and threaded it for metric threads (Browning receivers use Metric threads) set the headspacing to +/- .0002", and hand-lapped, and custom target crowned it. Barrel shoots 1/2 to 5/8" 3-shot groups with minimum load development and 168 Berger VLD's. Paid less than $100 shipped for the brand new barrel on eBay, and then paid the smith to do the work. So, I revived a burnt-out Browning and made it a 1/2-MOA gun for less than $500.

If interested, I can post some pictures of it. It's the world's first and only, and I call it "The Brownington".