Some guidance so I don't blow myself up...

Hey, I came accross this post: http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f28/hornady-l-n-l-oal-guage-what-am-i-screwing-up-35025/

and watched the video. It looks like this is basically what I did, except I didn't manually place the bullet into the case. This method seemed to make the most sense, probably because I could visually see it, which cleared up a few things. Montana Rifleman, this looks like what you are describing, is that correct? I'll take a look at the Sticky on the berger bullets. I've also put in a call to see if I could get Berger to send me some load data for the powder I chose.

Thanks.
 
I just checked out the sticky. I had seen that excel chart before, but perhaps I'm looking for the wong thing, as it made sense from a bullet perspective, but I was looking for something that tells me the amount of powder recommended.

For example, the Lee book gives the following for a 30-06 springfield:

180 Grain Jacketed Bullet, H4350 powder-->Starting Load = 52 grains......Maximum Load = 57 grains

I guess what I'm looking for is for some comfort from you experienced reloaders as to what you think I should start at as far as the amount of grains of H4350 I should start with. Is 52 grains of h4350 safe enough to start with? I've got my wife all scared I might blow myself and the gun up, and frankly, I'm a bit nervous about pulling the trigger on the first load....perhaps I'll have the mother-in-law pull it for me on the first try! :rolleyes:
 
perhaps I'll have the mother-in-law pull it for me on the first try! :rolleyes:


LOL, I would look at load data for a 190 grain bullet and base your starting loads off of that data. I generally go to the next heaviest if data is not available for that specific weight bullet.

Well I just looked at 2 different manual. The one is the newest edition Lyman 49th edition, and a newer Lee manual. The Lee says that 56.5 grains is max for a 190grn bullet. The Lyman is saying 51grns is max for a BTHP. So I would start at 52grns and work up. Here is another suggestion.

I started doing pressure tests. I would load one shell at a time working up in one grain increments until I started seeing pressure. My suggestion before even loading a batch for accuracy is do the following; Find your seating depth, load a set of casings from 48.0 grns to 59.0 grns in one grain increments. That will give you 12 loads to take to the range just to see what the max pressure is on your rifle.

Make sure to look at the rim of the case for any ejector marks. Look at the primer to see if it is starting to crater into your firing pin hole or flaten(Federals are soft so they can be pushed a little farther until you see pressure signs in the rim). Check for heavy or sticky bolt lift. Over pressure loads will cause you to have to really lift the bolt handle hard, and if they stick you will need a cleaning rod or the shooting bench to get the bolt back.

I know it seems like a wasted trip to the range, but then you will know how hot you can go. Once you find the hottest load, back off a half to a full grain of powder and that is your max. Then go home, reload a couple different loads at the top end of your grain weights and start shooting for groups.

Does this make sense?

Tank
 
Yeah, tank that makes sense. I just got an email back from berger with all their load data and they suggest a starting load for the 30-06, 185gr, H4350 at 49grains.

Looks like I'll be shooting over the holiday!gun)Thanks for all your help. I'll let you know how it goes, if the mother-in-law makes it through the holiday, we know your advice worked!!!:D

Have a great thanksgiving!

Rone
 
Welcome to the site!reloadersnest.com also has a lot of receipes for the reloader also but buy a manual first theres a lot of data and safety in there.
 
Hey, I came accross this post: http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f28/hornady-l-n-l-oal-guage-what-am-i-screwing-up-35025/

and watched the video. It looks like this is basically what I did, except I didn't manually place the bullet into the case. This method seemed to make the most sense, probably because I could visually see it, which cleared up a few things. Montana Rifleman, this looks like what you are describing, is that correct? I'll take a look at the Sticky on the berger bullets. I've also put in a call to see if I could get Berger to send me some load data for the powder I chose.

Thanks.

Ronedog, that's basically the same principal only I dont use the Collet die. It's a good way to do it, but I dont have one and no need to buy one. I hope your load work goes well and Happy Thanksiging.

Mark
 
Hat's off to the guys that have consistently supplied all of the help. It's been about 15 years since I started reloading and this would have been a nice thread to read.

As I read through all of the posts I had to laugh at how overwhelming this all must seem to be. I remember that every time I turned around there seemed to be some kind of widget or doo dad that I "needed". I've since refined my "needs" to "conveniences" :D and I'm good with that. All in all it's been an enjoyable, ongoing learning process

My "thoughts"- good or bad...

Every time I buy a die for a new caliber, I buy an RCBS Precision Mic Gauge for checking / setting O.A.L and case length. The Mic used with Forster benchrest seater dies makes setting bullet seating depth a breeze.

I finally learned that if I buy good brass I don't have to neck turn (most of the time). I still check the neck thickness variations and kick out the rounds that are over .002" in variation. By kick out I mean send them to the fouling round box. That said, I still neck turn from time to time (more for neck tension than anything else).

Checking concentricity of the brass before loading is not a bad idea if you are looking for the nth degree of accuracy. It takes a lot of other things to be right to get to that point.

As much as I like my digital scales and gee whiz powder dropper / scale combo my old balance beam scale is still the one that I trust over all of the rest.

Flash hole deburring is easier to do while sitting in front of the TV. Don't get shavings on the carpet or there will be severe consequences from the second highest authority in the universe. But I think it's one of the important one-time steps.

Primer pocket uniforming is a must do. Using a power source makes it go faster.

FWIW- The only bullets that I crimp are my pistol rounds and those get the least that I can get away with.

I love my Forster Co-Ax press and dies.

Harrell powder measures kick tail... but I still weigh every round and re-dump it if I'm loading rifle. Not so much with pistol. Some powders just don't measure worth a crap so a little caution doesn't hurt. FWIW- The Harrell typically drops a perfect charge every time with everything but stick powders. I don't think anything drops those consistently.

A good set of digital calipers is pretty handy to have.

If you're prepping 200 cases a power center makes life easier.

I have two Sinclair priming tools. One for large. One for small. I also have shell holders installed in extra heads so caliber changes are as easy as installing a new head.

H-338 is hilarious to shoot in the late evening :D Especially at a "city" range. The one that I occasionally go to is usually pretty crowded. Invariably someone will come ask me what I am shooting (because of the muzzle flash). I think the ports in the VTR make it especially spectacular.

Sierra made a DVD called High Power Rifle Reloading with G. David Tubb. It's pretty good for someone just getting started. Some of the info may be dated but all in all I thought it was a good DVD.

For every type of powder there are 10 more that I want to try.
For every bullet that I've loaded there are 10 more that I want to try.
For every caliber that I own... you get the picture. Reloading is a disease :D

The world would not need psychiatrists if everyone reloaded.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 15 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top