I thought I'd try to give back a bit to the LRH community that has provided me with so much information and post some info on a little known shotgun, the Smith & Wesson Model 916. You can find a copy of the owner's manual available here...
I recently had one in the shop for an inspection and cleaning. Not a fantastic shotgun, and probably not something I'd stake my life on, but it is utilitarian in nature. If you've got one and would like to add an interchangeable choke to it, it appears to have plenty of material at the muzzle to ream and tap for the current crop of interchangeable choke tubes (Winchester/Invector/Invector-Plus/RemChoke, etc.) without having to go to the slim-line varieties.
This particular model is designated "Eastfield - Model 916". It is a slide action/pump shotgun with one action bar in 12 gauge, with a 28" modified-choke plain barrel and a single brass front sighting bead. It has a top-tang safety allowing for ambidextrous use. Someone had been "in" this shotgun, and I'll point out some of those areas as the post continues.
Of particular note is the method to strip the firearm down to its frame. While the manual referenced above is of some help, I found the directions regarding bolt removal, the action bar, and the trigger plate pin removal less than helpful.
Oddities that I found are:
1.) The action bar : while it is a single action bar, it is a two-piece affair at the rear, where the bolt sits, with a matching machined piece at the bolt end. It's a bit tricky to remove, and the reason for the post. I hope this helps someone.
2.) To remove the barrel from the receiver requires a barrel vise and an action wrench modified for the purpose, as the barrel was fitted at the factory. Think Ithaca Deerslayer shotgun, or your typical Remington 700. Suffice it to say, the only reason to remove the barrel is to replace it.
To begin the break-down procedure, make sure the gun is empty, and the chamber is clear. Remove the lower slotted screw from the hard plastic butt plate, and then loosen the top screw about a 1/2 turn. Turn the butt plate to either side, and then with a long, flat-blade screwdriver, remove the stock screw. The stock screw is the typical long and with a large slot for the head, and there should be a washer underneath the head.
I recently had one in the shop for an inspection and cleaning. Not a fantastic shotgun, and probably not something I'd stake my life on, but it is utilitarian in nature. If you've got one and would like to add an interchangeable choke to it, it appears to have plenty of material at the muzzle to ream and tap for the current crop of interchangeable choke tubes (Winchester/Invector/Invector-Plus/RemChoke, etc.) without having to go to the slim-line varieties.
This particular model is designated "Eastfield - Model 916". It is a slide action/pump shotgun with one action bar in 12 gauge, with a 28" modified-choke plain barrel and a single brass front sighting bead. It has a top-tang safety allowing for ambidextrous use. Someone had been "in" this shotgun, and I'll point out some of those areas as the post continues.
Of particular note is the method to strip the firearm down to its frame. While the manual referenced above is of some help, I found the directions regarding bolt removal, the action bar, and the trigger plate pin removal less than helpful.
Oddities that I found are:
1.) The action bar : while it is a single action bar, it is a two-piece affair at the rear, where the bolt sits, with a matching machined piece at the bolt end. It's a bit tricky to remove, and the reason for the post. I hope this helps someone.
2.) To remove the barrel from the receiver requires a barrel vise and an action wrench modified for the purpose, as the barrel was fitted at the factory. Think Ithaca Deerslayer shotgun, or your typical Remington 700. Suffice it to say, the only reason to remove the barrel is to replace it.
To begin the break-down procedure, make sure the gun is empty, and the chamber is clear. Remove the lower slotted screw from the hard plastic butt plate, and then loosen the top screw about a 1/2 turn. Turn the butt plate to either side, and then with a long, flat-blade screwdriver, remove the stock screw. The stock screw is the typical long and with a large slot for the head, and there should be a washer underneath the head.