Sinclair Concentricity Gauge

Fired, out of chamber they come out fine.
Your chamber is your best die. Your brass will never be more consistent, than pulled smoking from your chamber.
Everything you do from there screws it up.

Brass has memory. It wants to go where it has been.
So what you cause cannot really be undone.

Intelligence divides with numbers. This is why mobs act with poor judgement.
Your own problem solving is better.

Broken is half way to fixed. You'll never solve a problem until you see it.
It's an opportunity.
 
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I just wanted to point out another advantage of having a runout gauge is that you can pick out your best ammo for hunting or target.
 
Was just doing some reloads for savage chambered in 223 Wylde, found some 5.56 cases, checking runout after body sizing and after LCD, noticed my runout increasing after lee collet die, not a lot but definitely could see it, so I thought maybe case needs to slide a little easier while going in die, I dipped shell holder in mica and runout went down instead of up, very surprising, I guess tiny bit of extra slippery helped case line up better, may work for you, can't see how it could hurt, love this Sinclair tool.
 
Was just doing some reloads for savage chambered in 223 Wylde, found some 5.56 cases, checking runout after body sizing and after LCD, noticed my runout increasing after lee collet die, not a lot but definitely could see it, so I thought maybe case needs to slide a little easier while going in die, I dipped shell holder in mica and runout went down instead of up, very surprising, I guess tiny bit of extra slippery helped case line up better, may work for you, can't see how it could hurt, love this Sinclair tool.
That's very interesting observation
 
IMG_20211223_180208581.jpg
check this out, after putting mica on shell plate holder with good results I thought maybe little burr on base of shell might be causing slight tilt in case or maybe digging in to shell holder cause I had to remove crimp ring on cases, lightly spun base by hand on 1000 grit sandpaper and you can see little bits of brass left behind, went back to sizing and runout is even lower on case, close to nothing on many
 
Just did 10 more, runout on case went down on each one, most pretty close to .00025, significant improvement, these were cheap 5.56 rounds I shot years ago, this may become a regular practice for me, going to Cabela's now, I got about 30 more and I'll check runout before and after but so far unbelievable improvement.
 
Got back to loading and finished rounds came in around .0015 which I'm happy with for old dented up brass, definitely noticed a difference right after putting mica on shell holder, I'll see what it does with good brass.
 
Got back to loading and finished rounds came in around .0015 which I'm happy with for old dented up brass, definitely noticed a difference right after putting mica on shell holder, I'll see what it does with good brass.
What do you think cause thoe "bigger" pieces of brass on your sandpaper?
 
Im pretty sure they are from my crimp remover, just little jagged edges from tool getting dull, I need to get a pocket swager instead, I've been loading mainly new brass. Probably tumbling again would have taken care of it, I just want to see if the 5.56 will work better in the Wylde chamber. I had some brass that was out over .002 at neck and full length sized it with Forster die, runout was almost zero after that die but loaded round was .005 out, tried this a couple times with same results, used LCD on rounds with same runout on neck and got under .003 on finished round and runout after LCD on neck was only a little less, which I guess shows collet die pushes runout to outside of neck which is why round came out with less runout, normally I wouldn't load it with that kind of runout to begin with but wanted to see what happened comparing the two. So pretty much if you have a lot of run-out to begin with don't expect to get it out, I get very few with that kind of runout, these were shot through my ar.
 
I still stand by the LCD and Redding body die combo, 6 months ago my best rounds had .002 runout, maybe 10 percent the rest were as high as .006, now .001 is the norm on good brass and I'm not saying this is the best way, I'm sure a bushing die and mandrel would be better but Quiet Texan pretty much talked me out of that for my purposes, I'm getting 1/2 groups out of a factory savage model 25 and I don't see it getting much better than that, if I had a custom gun then things would be different, bang for your buck the collet die and body die work good, I highly recommend Hornady shoulder gauge, 40 bucks, know where your shoulder is, see where your rifle likes it and keep it there.
 
Now that I look at the picture I posted I would say that bigger piece of brass is part of the crimp, I need a pocket swagger but it can wait.
 
Quiet Texan pretty much talked me out of that for my purposes, I'm getting 1/2 groups out of a factory savage model 25 and I don't see it getting much better than that, if I had a custom gun then things would be different
Take the $190 you saved on the die and put a barreled action on order

happy star wars GIF


In all seriousness though I'm happy to see the Lee FCD working so well. Lee dies are not expensive, but that doesn't make them cheap.
 
I did find that a little sandpaper and polish makes the LCD work much better. What barreled action would you recommend
 
Lees seating die is not so good, I stopped using mine when I seen it was pushing the bullet down by the tip of the bullet.
 
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