Shoulder bumping issue now stuck case

Do ya trim your cases each time in case prep? Did you thoroughly clean the die and parts prior to beginning reloading. I clean each time before FL sizing cases. Again lube either to much or to little. I use a wood dowl metal also works for persuading them loose. Redding dies typically are just fine.
 
I had a similar problem so I called Hornady and explained, every time I attempt to compress the the shell I would notice the die would move slightly. I have been using Lock N Load die bushings and he suggested to use a spacer which they sell for that reason. When I placed the spacer onto the die it stopped that movement.
Just a thought..
 
Knight said:
I had a similar problem so I called Hornady and explained, every time I attempt to compress the the shell I would notice the die would move slightly. I have been using Lock N Load die bushings and he suggested to use a spacer which they sell for that reason. When I placed the spacer onto the die it stopped that movement.
Just a thought..
Click to expand...

Do you remember what it is called? Looking at Hornady's site and cannot find anything like that.
 
Last edited:
338weatherby said:
I am not able to get my shoulder to move on my 7x57AI. I've got fire formed brass that is twice fired. Went to the range and the loads are as I remember last. Shoot nice and tight, small groups. Some rounds are tighter to chamber when closing bolt. I had 3 that I couldn't close the bolt on. I pulled the bullets on those three and checked all my remaining rounds for chambering. All chambered with a couple a little tighter then I'd like. I took one of the pieces that wouldn't chamber and ran it through the FL sizing die. Got it to close but WAY too much effort. I then swapped the shell holder with the .008 Redding holder and no change, went to the .004 again no change. Tried the .002 and still no change. I then noticed that the die seems to move up in the press when I'm cammed over. The Hornady bushing seems to give a little. I threaded the die down slightly more and now I've got a case stuck with the rim tore off. I cant figure why it wasn't bumping the shoulder and then got stuck? This case was through the die multiple times and shouldn't have gotten stuck. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Possibly lube built up in the die causing deformation, or if you use a spray lube, it may have separated and gotten more alcohol and less actual lubricant.
 
mulie said:
Do ya trim your cases each time in case prep? Did you thoroughly clean the die and parts prior to beginning reloading. I clean each time before FL sizing cases. Again lube either to much or to little. I use a wood dowl metal also works for persuading them loose. Redding dies typically are just fine.
Click to expand...
I did not trim. They don't need it yet. I'm guessing I didn't have enough lube on due to me handling the case. This is a RCBS die. Just using the Redding shell holders
 
as far as shell holders .. the standard should be minimum (shortest) when cammed over ..
the reddings are meant to size brass to end up longer (while being able to cam over) .. that why your redding holders weren't touching

buy a cheap shell holder and sand the top down until it sizes perfectly.. then just keep in diebox
 
stuck many .. my "never failed me "method is

-- upside down die in press
-- loosen decapping rod so it hangs against the inside of the shoulder ( so drill doesnt damage the decap pin )
-- drill out primer pocket to 7/32 ..
put a 3/8 drive 3/4 socket upside down .. making sure the case head will fit inside the socket
--then, using an impact wrench driver and a t30 bit.. tap a floor screw like in this link .. to pull it out every time


put enough washers in between the screwhead and socket so when it taps through ,it doesnt go inside and damage the decap pin
 
Last edited:
DUSTY NOGGIN said:
as far as shell holders .. the standard should be minimum (shortest) when cammed over ..
the reddings are meant to size brass to end up longer (while being able to cam over) .. that why your redding holders weren't touching

buy a cheap shell holder and sand the top down until it sizes perfectly.. then just keep in diebox
Click to expand...
The Redding shell holders start at .010 being the longest or thinnest from bottom to base where case sits. The go up in .002 increments to bump shoulder as the measurement from bottom to base of holder gets thicker. The overall height of the shell holders are the same and all contact the die. The problem I'm having is if there is any force at all needed, and I'm not talking about a lot, the lock n load bushing moves up enough to see a small gap. Take the shell out, and the shell holder will cam over on the die. I'm not liking these bushings. If I can find the spacers, I'll try them. Otherwise, I'll be going back to threading all dies in.
 
DUSTY NOGGIN said:
stuck many .. my "never failed me "method is

-- upside down die in press
-- loosen decapping rod so it hangs against the inside of the shoulder ( so drill doesnt damage the decap pin )
-- drill out primer pocket to 7/32 ..
put a 3/8 drive 3/4 socket upside down .. making sure the case head will fit inside the socket
--then, using an impact wrench driver and a t30 bit.. tap a floor screw like in this link .. to pull it out every time


put enough washers in between the screwhead and socket so when it taps through ,it doesnt go inside and damage the decap pin
Click to expand...
That sounds like an easy way. Thanks.
 
DUSTY NOGGIN said:
stuck many .. my "never failed me "method is

-- upside down die in press
-- loosen decapping rod so it hangs against the inside of the shoulder ( so drill doesnt damage the decap pin )
-- drill out primer pocket to 7/32 ..
put a 3/8 drive 3/4 socket upside down .. making sure the case head will fit inside the socket
--then, using an impact wrench driver and a t30 bit.. tap a floor screw like in this link .. to pull it out every time


put enough washers in between the screwhead and socket so when it taps through ,it doesnt go inside and damage the decap pin
Click to expand...
Worked like a charm. Thanks
 
So, I annealed all my brass and went back to the bench to see if I can get the shoulder bumped. I removed the firing pin for the bolt (M700) and chambered a fired, sized case. Stiff bolt closing. I preceded to size another case with shell holder .010, no change. I grabbed another case and tried shell holder .008, no change. I did this all the way to .002 with no discernible change using different brass with each shell holder.

Recap:
Hornady factory 7x57, fireformed in my rifle with a 40 degree AI chamber. All brass were then loaded again as 7x57AI with RCBS 7x57AI 40 degree die and fired again. That twice fire fired brass was loaded a 3rd time. These are the loads (3rd loading) where I've had 3 that I cannot close the bolt per post #1. If memory serves me right, I've had tight closing bolt with some at after the 2nd firing but nothing near what the 3 were that I had to pull. The remaining 20 loaded rounds I have all chamber nicely with a few that have a little resistance but not bad at all. I started this thread thinking It's a simple shoulder bump issue but I can't seem to figure it out. The rifle has about 100 rounds down it and shoot great. I know I've read where some reamers don't quite match the die and one's 40 degree isn't the others. Thinking the next step is to trim all down to 2.225 which I think is the standard 7x57 trim length. A few I measure last night were at the upper limit of 2.235-2.240. I may have to eat crow from my reply on post #20 of not needing to be trimmed.

Is it possible that my chamber is just too tight? Die is mismatched?
 

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