Should I remove stock pressure pads?

[Falfreak]

I have an older Japanese made Weatherby Mark V. The barrel is the lightest, #1 contour. I have not fired the rifle yet or developed a load for it. I also recently acquired a B&C Medalist stock that has pressure pads molded into it that contact the barrel. Action fit is good, but the action has not been bedded.

Any input in removing the pressure pads to free-float the barrel versus leaving them intact and starting load development as-is?

Any suggestions on what is recommended to help me start with the fewest variables that would effect accuracy as I try and get this lightweight 300 Weatherby Magnum ready to use next season?

 

[asd9055]

Back in 2013 I bought a used Japanese MKV 300 like that for my son. It did come with a muzzle brake. Mine is not free floated either. It shoots 200 grn Nosler Accubond and Partitions real good so I never felt the need to mess with it.

 

[Varmint Hunter]

I owned a Weatherby Mark V in 7WBY that really didn't shoot as good as it should have. I had a well-known gunsmith bed the action and free float the barrel, thinking that this would resolve the accuracy issues. The rifle shot worse.

Eventually, I sent the rifle back to Weatherby for review. They told me that floating the barrel was NOT their method of achieving accuracy in their rifles. They said the original stock could not be salvaged. I had to buy a new Mark V stock and pay Weatherby to set it up again. It was a very costly proposition.

I sold the rifle after its return.

 

[Falfreak]

That is not encouraging. Especially, given the price of components to try and figure a load out.

 

[asd9055]

I would shoot it first before trying anything.

 

[Varmint Hunter]

I would just start load development with the rifle "as is". Most Weatherby rifles have barrel pads and many shoot quite well. Don't look to resolve an issue that hasn't surfaced yet.

OTOH - I can see that a 300WBY mag with a #1 contour barrel "may" take a bit of work to develop a good load for. Shooter fatigue could also come into play while testing loads in a light-weight magnum rifle.

 

[Dr. Vette]

One caveat - in my experience the B&C stocks may not fit as well as they should. The last two Mark V ones I purchased for #2 barrel contour were too high in the forearm, i.e. bent upwards. This made it virtually impossible to tighten the action into the stock without bending the action/barrel. On one I hogged out the barrel channel, and the rifle shoots great free-floated. On the other I changed to the Accumark stock so I didn't have to modify it. Several discussions with B&C went nowhere.

So, be sure that your rifle fits well into the stock you have.
You can bed the recoil lug if you wish, and leave the pressure points in place to start.
I have a few tricks I have developed to be able to do this.

Best of luck!

 

[tobnpr]

I would shoot it first before trying anything.

^^^
This. Why try to "fix" something that may not even be broken?

Load development with very lightweight magnums is challenging.
The barrel heats up quickly, so IMO it's best to try to simulate real-world, a cold-bore shot with a follow up or two- then resting until the barrel has completely cooled. Then there's just dealing with that recoil-I recently built a .300 WSM lightweight as a gift to my son, even with a shooting rest on the bench he was worn out by the end of the day.

 

[MNbogboy]

In an earlier post i inquired to ask if an adjustable pressure point has been tried and would it have any value for tuning. Pressure value in pounds were discussed and the measurement was never disclosed as how this was accomplished or what the value was compiled with.my 25+ years as a mechanical designer tell me an adjustable pressure point is very possible.

 

[Greyfox]

In my experience the removal of forearm pressure points is a crap shoot with light/sporter weight barrels and generally an improvement with heavy barrels. I agree with others that you should shoot the rifle before removing the pressure point.

 

[asd9055]

Here is my Japanese MKV. Brake is Factory. It is NOT freefloating. Bought used on Gunbroer in 2013. Son took to Afrika 2014 and Killled 7 Annimals.
Shoots same 200 gr loads with RL 22 under 1/2" as my ~2010 US Made Mark V Accumark, Two totally different rifles, one load for both, same accuracy. Maybe we got lucky!

Shoot First! Make adjustments ONLY onlyf IF Needed

 

[skipglo]

That is not encouraging. Especially, given the price of components to try and figure a load out.

Easy gun to load for in many bullet weights! My sons and I own 4 of 300s. Wouldn't trade one of them for anything. And I own 4 other Weatherby Mark V s.

 

[skipglo]

Here is my Japanese MKV. Brake is Factory. It is NOT freefloating. Bought used on Gunbroer in 2013. Son took to Afrika 2014 and Killled 7 Annimals.
Shoots same 200 gr loads with RL 22 under 1/2" as my ~2010 US Made Mark V Accumark, Two totally different rifles, one load for both, same accuracy. Maybe we got lucky!

Shoot First! Make adjustments ONLY onlyf IF Needed

Nice looking gun.....no luck involved...and good advice!

 

[bigbrad53]

I have an older Japanese made Weatherby Mark V. The barrel is the lightest, #1 contour. I have not fired the rifle yet or developed a load for it. I also recently acquired a B&C Medalist stock that has pressure pads molded into it that contact the barrel. Action fit is good, but the action has not been bedded.

Any input in removing the pressure pads to free-float the barrel versus leaving them intact and starting load development as-is?

Any suggestions on what is recommended to help me start with the fewest variables that would effect accuracy as I try and get this lightweight 300 Weatherby Magnum ready to use next season?

With that light of a barrel I'd start with pads in. See how it shoots, if you don't like it then remove a little of the pads at a time. If nothing changes you might want to stop there.