Shortening a barrel from the breech end before chambering?

[lv2hunt]

School me on this please, I cannot find an answer to this and I am curious. This may be an ignorant question, but at my expense here it goes. Would it be a viable option to shorten a new barrel from the breech end prior to chambering and threading in lieu of the standard muzzle end? I only ask this because one of my barrels has a 5" long flat shank at the receiver end and the flutes run from the end of the shank to almost the end of the 30" current barrel length. Would cutting up to 2" off the breech be problematic to the accuracy or anything else?

Thank you,
lv2hunt

 

[J E Custom]

School me on this please, I cannot find an answer to this and I am curious. This may be an ignorant question, but at my expense here it goes. Would it be a viable option to shorten a new barrel from the breech end prior to chambering and threading in lieu of the standard muzzle end? I only ask this because one of my barrels has a 5" long flat shank at the receiver end and the flutes run from the end of the shank to almost the end of the 30" current barrel length. Would cutting up to 2" off the breech be problematic to the accuracy or anything else?

Thank you,
lv2hunt

No.
It is common to take some of the barrel shank if you have a sporter stock and need to closely match the inlet of the stock.

It is always a good idea to keep as much shank as you can to add metal around the chamber especially on very large cartridges.

It is not as important on smaller diameter cartridges.

I like a minimum of 1" plus the threaded tenon (Somewhere around 2" total).

In the case of a fluted barrel I try to center the flutes in the center of the barrel for looks. Most barrel makers will ask what will be the finished length of the barrel and cut the flutes accordingly
leaving about the same length of un fluted barrel on each end.

J E CUSTOM

 

[lv2hunt]

Thanks for the response JE Custom, I appreciate it.

lv2hunt

 

[Earnhardt]

No.
It is common to take some of the barrel shank if you have a sporter stock and need to closely match the inlet of the stock.

It is always a good idea to keep as much shank as you can to add metal around the chamber especially on very large cartridges.

It is not as important on smaller diameter cartridges.

I like a minimum of 1" plus the threaded tenon (Somewhere around 2" total).

In the case of a fluted barrel I try to center the flutes in the center of the barrel for looks. Most barrel makers will ask what will be the finished length of the barrel and cut the flutes accordingly
leaving about the same length of un fluted barrel on each end.

J E CUSTOM

When this is done, do you normally magnaflux the barrel the check for imperfections or cracks when wanting to re-chamber a barrel with a long heavy shank?
Are there any gunsmiths on this site (or that you can recommend) that magnaflux barrels before they are rechambered?
Thanks

 

[EddieHarren]

I, personally, would like to hear of one, good, sound reason for Magna-Fluxing a barrel.

 

[shortgrass]

I, personally, would like to hear of one, good, sound reason for Magna-Fluxing a barrel.

Because you could charge for it! Other than that, I can't think of a reason.

 

[MontanaRifleman]

Most barrel makers instruct you to cut off x" of barrel at the muzzle because the rifling and/or lapping process produces inconsistancy at the end of the barrel. Bottom line, you need to check with the barrel maker for their recommendation. If you have enough total length to take some off the breech end as well after you get the desired finished length, go fir it.