Shooting heavy recoiling rifle from bench-beginner here

[Cold Trigger Finger]

That's what I do. And have done for over 30 years. Weakhand holds the fore end. Firmly ! Some of my un broke 338 S would produce 5/8" groups at 200 meters with 300 gr Barnes Originals going over 2400 fps.

so I have 338 win mag, unbreaked sako 85 which kicks rather stoutly when shot from bipods off a bench. So much so, that just by changing the loading of the bipod creates a 2 MOA vertical difference in impact. I use the weak hand to adjust the bag under the buttstock while getting anooyed by 3 inch high groups. Suppressor or muzzlebreak is not an option. How could I enhace my accuracy? Perhaps put the weak hand on the forend To prevent the gun jumping 10 inchrs up each time it is fired.
I am a beginner and would welcome any technical advice.
Thank you!

 

[Dean2]

Stringing shots with a Bi-pod is pretty common, even with lighter recoiling rifles, but the heavy bangers show it easiest. First, try bedding the barrel all the way from the recoil lug to the tip of the forearm. On hunting weight barrels this very often results in vastly improved groups off the Bi=pod and other forearm rested positions. Most guys are fans of floated barrels but you will be amazed at how many lighter contour barrels shoot better fully bedded. Before anyone argues with me, try it. It is easy to bed one and easy to remove it if you don't like it.

Second, if you can't put a proper brake on it, at least get it Magnaported to help limit muzzle jump, and, like Cold Trigger said above, learn to shoot it holding the forearm. Most hunting shots you will need to hold the forearm anyhow so learn to shoot it that way from the get go. Holding the forearm also makes the amount of muzzle jump far less variable based on how hard the surface is you are shooting off of.

Best of luck, let us know how you make out.

 

[reloaderlen]

I have added one to two Oz of lead just ahead of the bedding in the front of the front action screw and not to interfere with the glass bedding or free floating of the barrel. Some stocks have a open channel in this location that is perfect for this . A Little JB weld and some buckshot and you are done. Other stocks require a channel to be cut.
Works great for me . This with a muzzle break is unbelievable. So many missing out on the benefits that can be gained with a break.

 

[zb338]

My youngest son has a .300 Weatherby and my oldest son has a
.340 Weatherby. Both rifles have compensators on them. The recoil
is way down and the rifles are fun to shoot.
Zeke

 

[Ftothfadd]

Why I am resisting putting a break on the rifle: this is a hunting rifle mainly used for, often unexpected, shorter distance shots, sometimes with guides, friends present. I am afraid of the loud report of the gun with the break eventually hurting someone's hearing. suppressors similarly get unwildy in thick AK bush. What I would really apreciate might be some technical advice on bipod shooting of heavy recoiling rifles without breaks/suppressors. I am starting to get the feeling that free recoil might not be technique of chipoice here after all..

 

[WildRose]

Stringing shots with a Bi-pod is pretty common, even with lighter recoiling rifles, but the heavy bangers show it easiest. First, try bedding the barrel all the way from the recoil lug to the tip of the forearm. On hunting weight barrels this very often results in vastly improved groups off the Bi=pod and other forearm rested positions. Most guys are fans of floated barrels but you will be amazed at how many lighter contour barrels shoot better fully bedded. Before anyone argues with me, try it. It is easy to bed one and easy to remove it if you don't like it.

Second, if you can't put a proper brake on it, at least get it Magnaported to help limit muzzle jump, and, like Cold Trigger said above, learn to shoot it holding the forearm. Most hunting shots you will need to hold the forearm anyhow so learn to shoot it that way from the get go. Holding the forearm also makes the amount of muzzle jump far less variable based on how hard the surface is you are shooting off of.

Best of luck, let us know how you make out.

Full length bedding is an absolute last resort when nothing else works.

When you bed the full length of the stock in front of the lug the barrel is going to move with every shot as it warms up, it's unavoidable.

 

[Dean2]

Full length bedding is an absolute last resort when nothing else works.

When you bed the full length of the stock in front of the lug the barrel is going to move with every shot as it warms up, it's unavoidable.

Really. Here is a picture of 4 x 3 shot groups, shot with two different bullets and 4 different loads, from a 5 LB rifle with a 20" light barrel that is fully bedded from Tang to end of forearm. There was no barrel cooling between the groups and this group was fired after a 30 round barrel breakin process.

The target squares are 1/2" on each side. NULA makes all of their ultra light rifles exactly the same way. Not saying it is the right answer for a heavy varmint or bull barrel but for hunting weight and light weight it really does work. A hunting rifle needs to hold POI for one or two shots, three at most. This shows they will do it for at least 12. I have owned Ultra Light Arms rifles for over 30 years and they have all shot as good or better than this one. All were full length bedded. It is where I learned/became convinced to try it on my other hunting rifles.

I have done the same with ones I have bedded myself. Like I said, at least give it a try before telling me I am full of it.

 

[Dean2]

Why I am resisting putting a break on the rifle: this is a hunting rifle mainly used for, often unexpected, shorter distance shots, sometimes with guides, friends present. I am afraid of the loud report of the gun with the break eventually hurting someone's hearing. suppressors similarly get unwildy in thick AK bush. What I would really apreciate might be some technical advice on bipod shooting of heavy recoiling rifles without breaks/suppressors. I am starting to get the feeling that free recoil might not be technique of chipoice here after all..

If that is your issue then don't put a brake on it. But you have received excellent advice. Free recoil is NOT the answer with heavy boomers. Load the front rest, make sure this isn't flexing your forearm so it touches the stock, and hold down the forearm. Without a brake you MUST control the muzzle lift and the amount of muzzle lift will vary by how hard the ground is that your bipod is on, unless you control the fore end.If you want the ultimate demonstration of that take a 460 Weatherby, lay it across a good rest and use a rear bag. Do not control the forearm, just ride it back and fire a group., Now hold the forearm tightly. You will get a nice group of the same size 5 to 6 inches lower. I have done the same with stoutly loaded 45-70s and got the same out come.

 

[WildRose]

Really. Here is a picture of 4 x 3 shot groups, shot with two different bullets and 4 different loads, from a 5 LB rifle with a 20" light barrel that is fully bedded from Tang to end of forearm. There was no barrel cooling between the groups and this group was fired after a 30 round barrel breakin process.

The target squares are 1/2" on each side. NULA makes all of their ultra light rifles exactly the same way. Not saying it is the right answer for a heavy varmint or bull barrel but for hunting weight and light weight it really does work. A hunting rifle needs to hold POI for one or two shots, three at most. This shows they will do it for at least 12. I have owned Ultra Light Arms rifles for over 30 years and they have all shot as good or better than this one. All were full length bedded. It is where I learned/became convinced to try it on my other hunting rifles.

I have done the same with ones I have bedded myself. Like I said, at least give it a try before telling me I am full of it.

I have given it a try and so have many others.

The physics is pretty simple, as metal heats up it increases in both length and diameter.

 

[hunterbob]

Thank you for all the help. I think I am leaning into the rifle loading the bipod quite decently. However, when I touch off a round, the muzzle jump is really pronounced. I feel, depending on the degree of bipod load, the muzzle jump is varied, and I think that influences the impact point and causes the vertical stringing. The issue is I am happy to sight in from bags, but then, how will I shoot in hunting application from the bipod...

Just saying (laugh) if you're gonna shoot a 338 , there is no way to hold it, so it doesn't hurt...

 

[IPSC]

Thank you for answering why you don't want a muzzle brake.... noise and influence on nearby people in a hunting setting, etc. Might still want to look into Mag-na-Porting as it will force gases UP through holes that are EDM'd onto the top and top/side of the barrel. Will help with lift and also offer *some* recoil reduction. The noise also goes up instead of sideways like a brake.

 

[MagnumManiac]

Shooting off a bench is totally different to shooting off a bi-pod from prone or sitting in the field.
I have a few 338WM's, a Model 70 EW that is a pussycat to shoot from any position, 2 Kimber 8400's in select grade and Super America and a Rem 700 KS. The latter being harsh in recoil due to the hard rubber factory pad, the other 3 all have decelerators on them which dampen recoil very well.

The muzzle jump you are experiencing is most likely from the concrete bench and not loading the bi-pod heavily enough. I always use a couple of beach towels under my rifles on concrete benches, this dampens some of the bounce favourably.

Cheers.

 

[Idaho Lefty]

The .338 Win Mag

Just saying (laugh) if you're gonna shoot a 338 , there is no way to hold it, so it doesn't hurt...

When I started realizing that, many, MANY Deer, Elk and Moose are killed with, sharp sticks ( AKA Arrows) thru, the Lungs/ heart, I SOLD my .338 WM and bought a 7 Mag and later a Tikka .270 WSM (wanted a lighter weight, low recoiling, rifle) My "FLINCH" is almost gone, now ! IMO,..SELL the .338 and you will probably, practice MORE and shoot, BETTER !
A 1/2 inch, "mushroomed", bullet thru, the heart - lung area,.. gets it done ! "Cannons" are not necessary, in the lower 48, for deer, elk, moose ! Just my .02 cents ! When I was in my late 20's - 30's I thought, I couldn't live without, a .338 WM,.. by 50, I knew better ! Without, a break on it you WILL probably develop a "flinch" that,.. MAY never go away ! I hunt/shoot over a Pack or with, Sticks in "varied terrain" where a bipod may NOT work, anyway. Let the "Snowballs",..FLY !

 

[Ftothfadd]

Thank you guys, this is very useful indeed. I think on my next trip to the range I will try the forehand hold and combine it with a towel under the bipods.
Admittedly, I do not shoot this gun for strings more than 20 rounds, but I think these relatively short strings do not bother me too much. I had myself recorded, and failed to notice any signs of a flinch...
Thank you again, Ferenc