Separate die to de prime and titanium bushings

[jraulsten]

I may have missed it, but what caliber are you reloading? I'm sure you already know but some Lapua brass will require a small decapping pin because of the small flash hole. I got in a hurry once and decapped 100 pieces of once fired 6.5x47 brass with my regular decapping die.........expensive lesson.

 

[LoneTraveler]

At the present I have no bushing dies, So no comment.

I have 2 decapping dies, 1 large and 1 small. The large has a large decapping pin.
I use the small die for 222 Rem. and 223 Rem. The large for 243, Win. 308 Win. 300 WSM 30-06 and 338 WM.
If I come up with any military cases, 223, 7.62 X 51 (308 Win.) or 30-06 I will not run them through the my decapping die. Till I inspect each case with a light. With some NATO ammo being made in Europe with military type head stamps. They are BERDAN PRIMED. A boxer primer decapping pin hits the anvil in a berdan primed case and OH &!!!Y. I bent a decapping rod and had to straighten it in a lathe. The decapping pin bent like a pretzel, Had to cut it off with a dremel tool and drive the base out of the retainer sleeve.
I decap first, Clean cases with Lyman Ultrasonic Cleaner and Lyman case cleaner. I do not want to damage a die with a dirty case.

 

[johnnyk]

My brass rarely hits the dirt but I agree there's a need to keep dirt and grit out of your dies. Another use/need for the universal de-capping die I see is to de-prime your brass prior to checking the length of your fired brass to get an accurate measurement before setting the shoulders back .0015-.002".
Sometimes there a raised crater around the firing pin indent in the primer which adds to the overall measurement. I guess this is where primer metal has flowed back in to the firing pin hole? Least that's what I've always thunk.

 

[hunter0528]

Depriming with a universal depriming die allows you to clean the cases before sizing and reduces the chances of scratching your dies and brass.

I started wet tumbling and using a universal depriming die after getting semi-auto rifles and pistols. When the brass lands on the ground it can pickup dirt and grit and I was always scratching my .223 dies. And wet tumbling with SS media scrubs the cases and primer pockets clean.

Depending on what I'm reloading I generally de-prime first then use an ultrasonic cleaner and the Hornady cleaning solution, then let them dry and tumble polish. then I resize with a de-capping rod in place to remove any pieces of walnut shell that lodges in the primer flash hole, and finally trim. Now they are ready to reload.

Doing this I can consistently get 1/2 minute groups with my 300 win mag.

 

[Lenwood901]

its 6.5 and i do have the small pins

 

[drdool]

Thank you guys I ordered a separate decapping die. Reason I was asking about the ti bushing is when I resize my lapua brass it's hard when it gets to the neck don't know if it's just my chamber in my rifle is alittle big but I measure a loaded round and take 2 off it so I'm using the 289 bushing

It is worth the small expense and I use the decapping die every time now. It's one more step but gives me peace of mind knowing that I am getting more accurate Fired case measurements and clean brass once tumbled and deprimed before putting into the expensive type S dies.

 

[Highdesertmike]

I run the Lee decapping die. I have it sel up on an old RCBS Jr. Press. All my brass gets decapped here first, and it is a filthy mess. Same reasons as above. All that dirt and carbon stays there and does not find it's way to my other presses and dies.

 

[Alibiiv]

I use the steel bushings. I like to lube the inside and outside of the neck with Imperial Dry Lube before sizing so this works fine for me.

I would like to understand if there is a benefit to decapping separately too.

I've read Imperial sizing die wax on these threads, and you've written Imperial Dry Lube. Are these products used for different applications, or do they accomplish the same results? I was about ready to order some Imperial sizing wax, however not certain about whether to order the dry lube or the wax?

 

[Lasiter]

I reload mostly pistol (90% .45 ACP) and always de-prime separately first, then tumble.
The trade-off is cleaner cases (and reloading press) vs. the risk of tumbling media in a primer hole. I leave the primer stem in my press die to remove any media. I rarely see any media stuck in a primer hole. I have a separate short-stroke press for de-priming pistol cases. Rifle cases I always de-prime before they are re-loaded.

 

[Highdesertmike]

I've read Imperial sizing die wax on these threads, and you've written Imperial Dry Lube. Are these products used for different applications, or do they accomplish the same results? I was about ready to order some Imperial sizing wax, however not certain about whether to order the dry lube or the wax?

Alibiiv: The Imperial wax is used to lube the outside of the case, and can be used for the case neck as well. The dry lube is used on the outside and inside of the case neck and is applied with their application media. You don't use it for a resizing lube on the body. You could use the wax to lube the inside necks, but I don't know if it would affect the powder or not. I choose to use the dry on the insides.

 

[cactus02]

I've used a lee depriming die for all my rifle rounds so that I can clean te primer pockets. Another benefit is moving the expander ball up near the case neck where you have leverage and if you move it up high the brass stays straight on the ball because the neck guides it.

 

[Alibiiv]

Alibiiv: The Imperial wax is used to lube the outside of the case, and can be used for the case neck as well. The dry lube is used on the outside and inside of the case neck and is applied with their application media. You don't use it for a resizing lube on the body. You could use the wax to lube the inside necks, but I don't know if it would affect the powder or not. I choose to use the dry on the insides.

Okay thanks for the reply. There's so much information going on here it's sometimes a bit confusing, or it sometimes all runs together

 

[30calyooper]

Depriming with a universal depriming die allows you to clean the cases before sizing and reduces the chances of scratching your dies and brass.

Absolutely correct! Clean the case thoroughly and your sizing etc. goes smoother from there on, and may in fact provide a more precise job of sizing each case to the same external measurements without dirt etc. interfering. And from experience, you'll spend a lot less time cleaning your dies.

My method - deprime fired cases in a universal depriming die, rinse thoroughly in hot water, then run them through my Hornady liquid case cleaner using boiling water and the Hornady proprietary case cleaner. The sonic vibration really does work as long as you make sure each case is filled with the solution, though I have to admit it takes 3-5 cycles to get them fully clean. AND BTW - don't get crazy with the Hornady cleaning solution...too much and the cases seem to end up discolored.

A couple more hints - if the cases have been sitting for awhile (like days/weeks etc.) let them soak in a solution of hot water and the Hornady solvent for 3-4 hours and THEN run them though the sonic case cleaner. Once they are clean, simplest way to dry them is on a tin pie plate in the oven for about an hour at 160-170 degrees. Note that liquid cleaning/drying can leave watermarks on the cases, but nothing an hour or two in the tumbler with corn cob or walnut shell media doesn't get rid of. Not a bad idea anyway if you like your cases shiny!

 

[tvarden]

I've read Imperial sizing die wax on these threads, and you've written Imperial Dry Lube. Are these products used for different applications, or do they accomplish the same results? I was about ready to order some Imperial sizing wax, however not certain about whether to order the dry lube or the wax?

I use the Imperial Sizing Wax for everything, after sizing I then run my the brass in my wet tumbler a 2nd time for 30 min to remove the wax.