Screw on vs. Ported muzzle brake

If he got the crown inside correct, it shouldn't take away from its accuracy potential. Some times adding or taking away weight from the muzzle end will effect the tune of a load & harmonics of the barrel but not necessarily accuracy potential. As far as velocity loss, I think the most you would likely see would be 80fps from 2" of barrel loss, but it may only be 30-40 fps loss. Its any ones guess until you chronograph what it does now compared to how fast it was before. Velocity loss some what depends on powder burn rate & bullet weight of the loaded round you were shooting or will be shooting. As far as hunting in the rain, I always keep a plastic bag over my muzzle until I'm ready to shoot whether it has a brake or not and whether its stainless or blued because any manner of rust or corrosion in the muzzle is not good. Being ported as such just makes it a little less convenient for drying & cleaning it out. If you were shooting a load or factory ammo that shot good before, It may very well shoot just as good now. If it doesn't, then that doesn't necesarily mean theres anything wrong with the work done to the muzzle, the load may just be out of node(tune) with the rifle now. You may have to try something different. Then on the other hand, it may even shoot better now. As far as drawbacks to being ported, the only draw back i see is it being less convenient to clean and keep it dry.
I think he will find that his smith installed a break after threading and crowning and turned it down to look finished. No way could he crown the barrel any other way. My smith put a break on my 270WSM and i wanted it the same diameter. He did a perfect job on it. He didn't recommend removing it for any reason. Neither do I. Weaver Rifles.
 
Shoot the rifle and see your results. pros of laser ported or removable is reduced kick which can increase the shooters accuracy. I have almost every rifle threaded and a muzzle break attached. I do this so I can add a suppressor then I can change it back. I have never had a rifle, with a screw on break, interfere with accuracy. Sometimes I need to adjust poi or even powder charge to accommodate the weighted effect. I suppose with laser porting you wouldn't see this since weight has not been changed so harmonics should remain. I personally see no advantages to laser porting when threading barrel is inexpensive and allows you to remove it to reduce noise when you wish
 
You said velocity loss from wsm, those usually run at around 35fps/in, but it depends on bullet weight/powder burn-- lighter bullets will often loose slightly more per inch than heavier ones.
Accuracy, ive never heard of a ported barrel hurting it, but you are stuck with what you've got unless you want to chop it off, so i say - go shoot it and see.
Rain- why would rain do anything different to a ported barrel than a bare muzzle or threadded brake?
Drawbacks-- cleaning the crown and ports is gonna be harder for sure.
That is what sonicators are for cleaning pesky parts. They so work good. Everybody was using the sonicator in the lab to clean valves, jewelery and things I never seen before but a couple of minutes in the sonicator and clean as you can get.
 
I wouldn't worry about a substantial velocity loss. I haven't been able to find it, but Back in the day either Shooting Times or G&A took a couple of rifles and chronographed them with 26" barrels. They ported them and lost less than 20FPS each. Then they started cutting them down and that was where the big velocity difference started to show. If I remember correctly the loss per inch became greater as the barrel got shorter as well. I don't think you are going to get any less effectiveness out of your rifle assuming the crown is correct. As stated earlier, the only real down side is you can't remove the brake and associated blast and noise.
Whatever was your gunsmith thinking?
IMHO, your gunsmith should never have acted independantly of your wishes.
Is it possible that he miunderstood your instructions?

I would return your barrel to him post haste, informing him of his error and demand either a refund for the work done as well a a refund for the barrel that he ported. ( only if he in fact was in error )
As you should not accept a barrel that you never requested to be ported without a prior authorization from yourself.

To that end you must be curtious as well as insistent in your demeanor if you can prove that your smith has made a mistake. ( this is in fairness to your gunsmith ).
Just for future reference, write down all work to be performed by your smith and either include this in the form of a letter or e-mail.
Date and sign it and make certain to keep a copy for your own records.

We had a saying where I worked as a Tool and Die maker ( now retired )
That saying is " Paper dosen't forget " so by writing it down there can be absolutely no confusion with regards to the work that he is to perform for you.
What I'm trying to say is included paperwork will state exactly what work is to be performed for the agreed upon price.
No more , no less!
Gun was shipped to different province and it was sent with written message to do brake as it can be flushed with barrel. What I meant and not specified was to be screwed on the barrel.
Only reason that I wanted to be screwed was to be added to the barrel. Aspect of taking on and off does not bother me at all. Only thing that bugs me is that barrel was cut back. Somehow I think I freaked out once it came more than I should due to lack of knowledge for most part.
Reason talking about that on the forum was that I get more understanding and knowledge of how 🤔 it actually works.

By ported or integral brake I meant the drilled barrel and recessed crown inside the brake.
 
Daka,
Quit being a drama queen and call the smith as well as take a known load and chronograph it. The smith will tell you the answer on work preformed; so pick up your phone. The folks here that said 20 to 50 fps drop are spot on on their estimates https://www.gunsandammo.com/editorial/barrel-length-vs-velocity/247991 for your reading pleasure.
I did called him and left him a message to explain me the pros and cons of what was done and what exactly was done. Has not called me back.
 
Have you actually confirmed with your gunsmith that its not a screw on thats perfectly blended? All I see is alot of "I think" ?
I hope that "I think" because barrel I sent was 24.5 and still is 24.5.
Ported part is shorter than the buddies of mine and overall barrel is shorter. I see no reason that someone cuts down the bbl and then add brake
 
You just lost the velocity to about where the brake port is. If the brake is two inches long 24.5 to 22.5 barrel. you might loose 25 - 75 fps on a chronograph.

It really depends if it is lots of slower burning powder and bullet weight.

The above article is irrelevant comparing a AR 15 223 to a hot rod like a 270 wsm
 
@daka , I sold both of my 270 wsm rifles. The last factory ammo I ran was 150gr federal fusions in the 26" xbolt. They ran about 3280 fps. Guessing at 35 fps velocity loss per inch, that would have put them around 3140 in a 22". 3140 for from a 150gr is still smoking fast. No worries Bro. Roll with it.
 
@daka , I sold both of my 270 wsm rifles. The last factory ammo I ran was 150gr federal fusions in the 26" xbolt. They ran about 3280 fps. Guessing at 35 fps velocity loss per inch, that would have put them around 3140 in a 22". 3140 for from a 150gr is still smoking fast. No worries Bro. Roll with it.
Love it...thanks
 
3280 from 150 grain factory ammo is awesome! That is about where I run my 270Bee with 150 Accubonds from a 26" New Haven Model 70. It's a freight train.
I could not duplicate the velocity of the 150gr fusion ammo with hand loads. The fusion factory ammo was hot. I took apart a fusion round to try and figure out what powder it was. It had to be a powder not available to the public. It was flattened round grains. The fusion ammo was pretty darn accurate.
 
I could not duplicate the velocity of the 150gr fusion ammo with hand loads. The fusion factory ammo was hot. I took apart a fusion round to try and figure out what powder it was. It had to be a powder not available to the public. It was flattened round grains. The fusion ammo was pretty darn accurate.
That sounds like old Winchester Magnum Rifle. Good stuff -- I still have two of the steel, cone top cans. Though I haven't used it, I believe Norma MRP is similar.
 
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Recently I sent my two guns for muzzle brake install and some other work as well. Guns returned and I am really satisfied with all of the work that was done but almost disappointed with muzzle brake installation. Instead of removable/screw on muzzle brake, gunsmith ported the barrels.
I read some scary stories of decreased muzzle velocity affect in accuracy, real sensitive reloading practices, not being able to shoot accurate in rain and so on...
original barrel length is 24.5 inch and I guess now ported length decreased that to 23 or 22.5 like non magnum caliber.
Can I hear some pros and cons about the both options.
Gun is 270WSM Sako that was intended to be used for sheep and goat hunting, (mountain in general).
thanks ahead
The original muzzle brake is what your Smith did. It was called Magna Porting. Weatherby did it differently and perforated the ends on the 460 from the factory with about 20 holes.There is no loss in accuracy, no sensitivity etc. At least none I have experienced and I think my .460 would show it....much sooner than a 270 and probably a little more dramatically
Have fun, shoot straight! And as Bob Marley said : Don't worry....Beeeeee HAPPPPPYYYY
 
I could not duplicate the velocity of the 150gr fusion ammo with hand loads. The fusion factory ammo was hot. I took apart a fusion round to try and figure out what powder it was. It had to be a powder not available to the public. It was flattened round grains. The fusion ammo was pretty darn accurate.
I went back and looked at my log and I am actually running 100FPS slower with my Accubond load at 3175.
 
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