Score High adjustable pillar diameter?
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I kind of thought that you wouldn't want too much space between the stock and pillar to help keep them properly lined up . And in this case less glue is better , it would make it a weaker joint if you had too much epoxy . More is not always better .
Carbine Kid
Active Member
A bit of help please.
Normal bedding has the action bearing surfaces clamped to the bearing surfaces of the stock ans the recoil lug firmly against the lug cut out.
Ok there is compression of all stock materials depending on their composition.
As i see it if you clamp onto pillars that are just short enough to allow stock "compression" then they become "auxillary" recoil lugs. To me this is putting recoil stress on weaker areas of the stock and undesirable.
Normal bedding has the action bearing surfaces clamped to the bearing surfaces of the stock ans the recoil lug firmly against the lug cut out.
Ok there is compression of all stock materials depending on their composition.
As i see it if you clamp onto pillars that are just short enough to allow stock "compression" then they become "auxillary" recoil lugs. To me this is putting recoil stress on weaker areas of the stock and undesirable.
25WSM
Well-Known Member
The pillers can't act as a recoil lug if the hole clearence is correct. The screws shouldn't touch the Piller in any way. Screws only pull the action down into the stock. The recoil lug stops recoil. 2 separate functions.
Shep
Shep
Carbine Kid
Active Member
Thanks for answering Shep.
I have just perched a "well known" replacement drop in stock for my Rem 700 Sedero and it has pillars in it.
Whilst fitting i found that when the action screws were hard up against the back of the pillars the recoil lug was not contacting. I brought the screws to the front of the pillars by gluing a .020 brass shim to the lug.
This got me thinking about the "friction" forces on the top and bottom of the pillars. Sorry i didn't specify this in the op. Is this force significant ?
If as you say the pillars should not contact anywhere then what is the point in having them /
I have just perched a "well known" replacement drop in stock for my Rem 700 Sedero and it has pillars in it.
Whilst fitting i found that when the action screws were hard up against the back of the pillars the recoil lug was not contacting. I brought the screws to the front of the pillars by gluing a .020 brass shim to the lug.
This got me thinking about the "friction" forces on the top and bottom of the pillars. Sorry i didn't specify this in the op. Is this force significant ?
If as you say the pillars should not contact anywhere then what is the point in having them /
The action screws shouldn't contact the pillars . The recoil lug should be bedded against the stock and the pillars against the bottom of the action , the action screw heads contacting the bottom of the pillars they should not be touching the sides of the pillars . The recoil lug being tight fitting against the stock and the action bedded to the stock provide support to the action and the friction to keep the stock and action from moving separate from each other . The action screws only pull the action down against the bedding and pillars thus the stock and are torqued to specs to have the proper downward force to apply the friction needed for the recoil lug to do it's job .
25WSM
Well-Known Member
Perfect answer Dsheetz. I guess at 4 in the morning I didn't type that up perfect. I guess it made sense to me. I should have said on a perfect bedding job the screws don't touch the pillers.
Shep
Shep
These are "my" thoughts on this subject.The pillars are part of the bedding system, and......do not act as "recoil lugs", the recoil lug is still the recoil lug, if the bedding job is done correctly, it will continue to do what it was designed to do; absorb recoil. The pillars are put in place so that the floorplate screws are tightening up against a solid object that will not not expand or contract from moisture, heat, cold, or compression from the floorplate screws, unlike wood that will so.......the action is less likely to shift due to be sitting up against wood. As for making the stock weaker at the drill/relief points from drilling the original floorplate screw holes out, the epoxy is a whole lot stronger and durable then any wood and.....would state that "if" the stock were to break it would not be because of the pillars being set in the stock. I am not an engineer, however I'd dare say that if a person were to conduct a test with two pieces of wood that were epoxied together and tried to pull those pieces of wood apart, the wood will probably pull apart on the grain and not on the glue seam; epoxy is a very strong and durable glue.
Also I read in this thread where someone wrote that they bed the entire stock, including the pillars at the same time. I bed Ruger 77s for the most part. Ruger is unique due to the front floorplate screw that is at an angle. When I pillar bed, I use bedding screws to align the pillars and hold them up against the receiver "after" relieving all of the wood around the pillars. Once the pillars are in place and......the epoxy is dried and set, "then" I relieve the wood behind the pillars and the recoil lug, and....the barrel channel, and....float the barrel with plumber's tape so that the bedding job is done with the receiver sitting on top of the pillars, making the entire bedding job a system that integrates the bedding with the pillars set into epoxy. I am sure that there are other opinions on this process, however this is MHO on pillar bedding.
25WSM
Well-Known Member
The purpose of pillers it to stop compression of the stock when tightening the action screws. Most wood stocks will compress with very little screw pressure. The plastic Tupperware stocks are worse. Once metal pillers are installed the screws go in and everything tightens up firm. Once tight you will not be able to keep tightening like on a stock without pillers. Once Piller bedded I put my screws at 60 inch pounds to start. On a wood stock without pillers I do 25 inches.
Shep
Shep
Carbine Kid
Active Member
Thank you for your thoughts, I have found the posts over the years very interesting.
Steve
Steve
