Scope mounting.

[Coyote.204]

Hello everyone. I have a question regarding my scope bases. This is a Christensen Ridgeline in 28nosler. I installed the Hawkins precision hybrid rings and mounted a Leupold VX6. After sighting it in I noticed my group started to shift. I thought that was due to cleaning during the break in. I ended up shooting 20rnds the 1st day.

Second day ran about 20rnds and like the 1st day groups started out good then they started to walk.

3rd day I ran 20 rnds and had a decent group of 5 right off the bat then again they started moving. Well looking everything over I noticed the bases had loosened. They were torqued to spec 15 inch lbs and a very small amount of blue locktite was added. So I have spoke with Hawkins and a few others on what way to fix it. Not sure what route I want to go so looking for some insight. Maybe one of you guys have experienced something similar.

One option is to bed the base.

2nd is to go with Christensen arms picatinny rail with legs that lock inside the action to prevent and shifting.

I also thought of going a little bit higher on the torque and use red locktite, which I know down the road may cause issues if I need to remove the base. I know you need to heat the screws to break the bond. I also found a video where a guy used some break cleaner that allowed the locktite to break free.

Thanks for any insight.

 

[Mark L]

(Right or wrong)I always use red on my rails. Make sure the screw holes are clean from oils when you install. Maybe increase to 20in lbs.

 

[Laguna Freak]

Mark L's advice is good but I dont use red. Be careful with torque if the bases are aluminum. Otherwise 20 in lbs should be no problem. Bedding bases can help because it eliminates space for vibration to work in to make things move. Just be diligent in the process and dont tighten so much that you squeeze all the epoxy out.

Last point; keep in mind a hot barrel will open up groups too.

 

[jdyoung]

Check if your base screws too long ?

If there is any discrepancy in the alignment of the bases up/down/left/ right, it could induce a "spring " affect that will work the screws loose. Misalignment stress will be put on the scope when you really tighten things down especially if you increase screw torque. Could maybe even cause damage to the scope.

What I would do:

Mark the positions of the rings on the scope with some blue painters tape ( doesn't leave residue), a piece on the ring top corresponding with a piece on the scope. mark the scopes top dead center (tdc) on the tape so you can reassemble in alignment. Also mark the ring tops for front and rear.

Disassemble rings from scope, receiver, don't mix up the ring tops.

Attach the front ring base to the front of receiver, check for gaps between the front base and receiver.

Attach the rear base/ring to the scope lining it up with the tape/ tdc marks snug down the ring top.

Lay the scope in the front ring and attach the ring top, again, use the tape /tdc marks to line things up.

So what you have is the scope attached to the receiver by just the front ring/base, careful not to bump it.

This allows you to check for gaps between the rear base and the receiver which may need bedding.

I sometimes use gold inletting ink on the ring bases to indicate how much contact is made and where on the receiver.

 

[Coyote.204]

(Right or wrong)I always use red on my rails. Make sure the screw holes are clean from oils when you install. Maybe increase to 20in lbs.

Using red with a little more torque has crossed my mind.

 

[Coyote.204]

I am kinda leaning towards the Christensen picatinny rail with legs. They call for a higher torque. Thinking that combined with legs to prevent shifting would be a good solution?

 

[CobraM197]

For individual scope rings that are machined from uncommon stock I would first use a lapping bar to make the bearing surfaces concentric. Otherwise you will create uneven pressure transmission in the ring hoops. I use blue loc tite and contact the vendor for proper torque. The threads have to be clean prior to application of loc tite.

 

[softtail103]

If you are buying Hawkins, try the one piece. One less weak point that has the opportunity to let you down. Baby Q-tip will clean the holes for you. Make sure to let if dry before you try to install the bases.

 

[Backcountry sports]

Hello everyone. I have a question regarding my scope bases. This is a Christensen Ridgeline in 28nosler. I installed the Hawkins precision hybrid rings and mounted a Leupold VX6. After sighting it in I noticed my group started to shift. I thought that was due to cleaning during the break in. I ended up shooting 20rnds the 1st day.

Second day ran about 20rnds and like the 1st day groups started out good then they started to walk.

3rd day I ran 20 rnds and had a decent group of 5 right off the bat then again they started moving. Well looking everything over I noticed the bases had loosened. They were torqued to spec 15 inch lbs and a very small amount of blue locktite was added. So I have spoke with Hawkins and a few others on what way to fix it. Not sure what route I want to go so looking for some insight. Maybe one of you guys have experienced something similar.

One option is to bed the base.

2nd is to go with Christensen arms picatinny rail with legs that lock inside the action to prevent and shifting.

I also thought of going a little bit higher on the torque and use red locktite, which I know down the road may cause issues if I need to remove the base. I know you need to heat the screws to break the bond. I also found a video where a guy used some break cleaner that allowed the locktite to break free.

Thanks for any insight.

Use the warne rail and rings blue loctite on screws torque to 25 lbs 20 one the ring base you should be fine I've set approx 30 christiansen guns up all were great

 

[Netz]

I had same problem with my Christensen Ridgeline and Leupold 6HD scope. I called Leupold customer service, they in turn discussed with Christensen Arms and appropriate bases were sent to me. The problem was basically that the mounting surface curvature required two (non-matching) basis. They now have the solution in their data base. Hope this helps.

 

[Otto6555]

Hello everyone. I have a question regarding my scope bases. This is a Christensen Ridgeline in 28nosler. I installed the Hawkins precision hybrid rings and mounted a Leupold VX6. After sighting it in I noticed my group started to shift. I thought that was due to cleaning during the break in. I ended up shooting 20rnds the 1st day.

Second day ran about 20rnds and like the 1st day groups started out good then they started to walk.

3rd day I ran 20 rnds and had a decent group of 5 right off the bat then again they started moving. Well looking everything over I noticed the bases had loosened. They were torqued to spec 15 inch lbs and a very small amount of blue locktite was added. So I have spoke with Hawkins and a few others on what way to fix it. Not sure what route I want to go so looking for some insight. Maybe one of you guys have experienced something similar.

One option is to bed the base.

2nd is to go with Christensen arms picatinny rail with legs that lock inside the action to prevent and shifting.

I also thought of going a little bit higher on the torque and use red locktite, which I know down the road may cause issues if I need to remove the base. I know you need to heat the screws to break the bond. I also found a video where a guy used some break cleaner that allowed the locktite to break free.

Thanks for any insight.

Are your cold bore shots on target
Reason I ask is I've found most rifles will string or open up as the barrel heats up
Usually this is normal for a production hunting rifle
Check your action screws first to make sure the rifle is not loosing up after repeated shots
Pillar bedding the action screws can greatly help a walker especially if it's opening up only when the rifle heats up
Just my 2pennies

 

[RYEWSKY25284]

Hello everyone. I have a question regarding my scope bases. This is a Christensen Ridgeline in 28nosler. I installed the Hawkins precision hybrid rings and mounted a Leupold VX6. After sighting it in I noticed my group started to shift. I thought that was due to cleaning during the break in. I ended up shooting 20rnds the 1st day.

Second day ran about 20rnds and like the 1st day groups started out good then they started to walk.

3rd day I ran 20 rnds and had a decent group of 5 right off the bat then again they started moving. Well looking everything over I noticed the bases had loosened. They were torqued to spec 15 inch lbs and a very small amount of blue locktite was added. So I have spoke with Hawkins and a few others on what way to fix it. Not sure what route I want to go so looking for some insight. Maybe one of you guys have experienced something similar.

One option is to bed the base.

2nd is to go with Christensen arms picatinny rail with legs that lock inside the action to prevent and shifting.

I also thought of going a little bit higher on the torque and use red locktite, which I know down the road may cause issues if I need to remove the base. I know you need to heat the screws to break the bond. I also found a video where a guy used some break cleaner that allowed the locktite to break free.

Thanks for any insight.

I'm likely off the reservation here. I use a tiny dot of blue loc-tite on all 4 base screws (using a Fat Wrench Torque screw driver) @25 inch lbs. I've NEVER stripped a thread and have always beed able to removed them.
Best of luck

 

[Hand Skills]

Check if your base screws too long ?

If there is any discrepancy in the alignment of the bases up/down/left/ right, it could induce a "spring " affect that will work the screws loose. Misalignment stress will be put on the scope when you really tighten things down especially if you increase screw torque. Could maybe even cause damage to the scope.

What I would do:

Mark the positions of the rings on the scope with some blue painters tape ( doesn't leave residue), a piece on the ring top corresponding with a piece on the scope. mark the scopes top dead center (tdc) on the tape so you can reassemble in alignment. Also mark the ring tops for front and rear.

Disassemble rings from scope, receiver, don't mix up the ring tops.

Attach the front ring base to the front of receiver, check for gaps between the front base and receiver.

Attach the rear base/ring to the scope lining it up with the tape/ tdc marks snug down the ring top.

Lay the scope in the front ring and attach the ring top, again, use the tape /tdc marks to line things up.

So what you have is the scope attached to the receiver by just the front ring/base, careful not to bump it.

This allows you to check for gaps between the rear base and the receiver which may need bedding.

I sometimes use gold inletting ink on the ring bases to indicate how much contact is made and where on the receiver.

This is a tricky process to explain, but exactly how I do it with Talley LW's. Sometimes the holes in the receiver aren't all lined up and that can cause some problems.

I also bed rails in a similar fashion. High quality mounts are usually pretty precise, but receivers are never perfect. It's pretty easy to do, and the peace of mind (knowing that the bases are true) is priceless.

 

[Privi457]

Netz explained the problem. Always good to read the whole thread.