Scope failed tall target test....🤬

Here's a variable. There's an issue some where in the erector assembly. Leupold's have a long standing history of having problems internally. You can also be getting scope track out which is a more of a complicated but still mechanical issue.

If you leveled the reticle to a plumb line, and your sniperhide tall target was plumb which is an accurate target, there should be no issue with level.

I'm surprised all the leupold haters haven't came out yet to give the I told you so speeches. Contact them, record some results. Also, take small comfort in if the inaccuracy is repeatable, then it's not really an issue for the purposes of shooting in both software and paper dope, it can be accounted for.
 
This is what got me going. After the 30 & 20 MOA shots went 1.5-2" right, I dialed up 4.25 MOA (about what I would dial for a 400 yard shot). I still hit 1.5" to the right. That would be 6" on an animal at 400 yards if my math is correct. That's not acceptable. He is that target:
74568730-7916-4952-AD75-244B68F930F5.jpeg

My turret was at 0 in the bottom square (2 holes touching). I turned up 4.25 MOA, and I'm 1.5 inches to the right??? What's really strange is if I turn up 30 MOA, I'm still just a little over 1.5 inches right. That doesn't make any sense to me?? 🤬
 
I just took the Leupold off and put a NF 5.5-22 on. I'll find out tomorrow if it is the scope or not. Glad I ordered a bunch of targets from SH. 🤨🤨
 
That is pretty strange. I had a Nikon that would do this sort of thing. It's due to a cross coupling between the vertical to horizontal erector. Send it back to Leupold for (hopefully) repair.
 
I've had 3 scopes with canted reticle come across my bench. But, it should not happen regardless.
You might try another scope, using your same mounting process and see if it repeats.
Sometimes those magnetic levels simply don't fit all rifles or fit correctly on certain actions or scope erector knobs.
I have managed to level an action using the picatinny rail, but it was the last resort.
Definitely the string/plumb method works when you can get your action plumb in a rifle rest, first.
 
No one mentioned lapping the rings. If the rings are not straight and you lap them they become straight with each other. I never lapped until I started spending what to me was big money (More than $1,500) on a scope. I was truly amazed at how much out my favorite rings (Talleys) were.I have two Weatherbys. Both used Talleys.
 
No one mentioned lapping the rings. If the rings are not straight and you lap them they become straight with each other. I never lapped until I started spending what to me was big money (More than $1,500) on a scope. I was truly amazed at how much out my favorite rings (Talleys) were.I have two Weatherbys. Both used Talleys.
I never mentioned lapping, because I just bed them in my opinion its better.
 
rotating the scope counter clock wise depends on how you're looking at the scope . here is a article on this .

you look to be about 1 moa right at your zero . all your elevated shots look to be about 2 moa right . so it added 1 moa right and stayed there . I'm not sure what to say , usually it keeps getting worse
 
rotating the scope counter clock wise depends on how you're looking at the scope . here is a article on this .

you look to be about 1 moa right at your zero . all your elevated shots look to be about 2 moa right . so it added 1 moa right and stayed there . I'm not sure what to say , usually it keeps getting worse
Great article! Thanks!
 
Just buy Burris signature rings and never worry about stress on your scope again. Plus you will never get a ring mark on your tube. They hold the scope tight as crap too. With the off set donut halves you can add moa to your scope or make off sets to account for mis alignment of scope base holes.
Shep
 
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