Scope Clearance w/ Picatinny Rail

Looks good but if it bugs you, trim it down. I had to trim a long action rail to fit a smaller scope bell.
 
I'm having a similar issue as the OP, but with an even closer clearance at the front (objective end) of the scope with the rail. It's hard to see the gap at most angles. I'm leaning towards taking some of the front of the rail off. Any thoughts?
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CONChunt, that LOOKS like enough clearance for you to be okay, but if that is a hard-kicking gun, it MIGHT induce just enough flex and heat to make contact at times. If you are handy, why not just cut some off and then repaint to remove any worry? If you aren't handy and things have been shooting fine so far, I'd leave it alone.
 
I'd cut and/or grind both of those bases for more clearance. What's the purpose of have all that unused base sticking out there?
I have ground a few bases to an angle that allows more clearance. IMO the thickness of a nickle is about where you want to be.
Just my 2 cents.
 
I think it's going to be fine. Looks like enough clearance to me. I'd shoot it.
My custom A-Bolt II 7mmRM has about that same amount of clearance with the rail and the Kahles scope, as CONchunt's setup, and mine is perfectly fine.

Pretty much, as long as you can actually SEE that they are not contacting each other anywhere, and that you have a noticeable gap between them (regardless of what angle you have to turn the gun) then you should be fine.
 
I'm having a similar issue as the OP, but with an even closer clearance at the front (objective end) of the scope with the rail. It's hard to see the gap at most angles. I'm leaning towards taking some of the front of the rail off. Any thoughts?
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You are good to go. My 270 wsm can barely slide a piece of printer paper between the objective and the barrel. I haven't had any problems and have been hunting with it for 4 years now. If everything is torqued to spec it shouldn't move at all.
 
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