Savage / Shilen questions

Discussion in 'Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics' started by CRNA, Oct 11, 2010.

  1. CRNA

    CRNA Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys. I'm really wanting a model 111 fcns in 7mm mag with a shilen bull barrel.

    First question: This is a model with the accustock, should the barrel fit without having to molest the stock?

    Next question: What would a fair price be for having the shilen mounted and headspaced by a good gunsmith?

    Thanks for the replies. I am looking at getting this package pretty soon after putting alot of research into it.
     
  2. nddodd

    nddodd Well-Known Member

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    You can order a shilen pre fit barrel in about any contour. If you wanted to go with a heavier contour you might have to trim a little out. As for the installing and headspaceing of your barrel the best way I've heard it put is if you can change your oil you can change a barrel out. I can confirm this I'm not the most mechanicaly inclined person and I thought it was very simple. Just go to savage shooters forum and do a search on barrel swap or headspacing and you'll find more than enough info on it.


    Nathan
     
  3. Trickymissfit

    Trickymissfit Well-Known Member

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    just order a Forster 7mm mag headspace gauge (they're cheap), and then order in a barrel nut wrench from Sharpshooter Supply. They make the best wrench by far. Then just thread the barrel into the reciever till it seats on the headspace gauge. Now tighten the barrel nut for about 35 ft. lb. of torque (the amount can be as high as forty pounds, and as low as 25 ft. lb.). Your now ready to shoot
    gary
     
  4. CRNA

    CRNA Well-Known Member

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    So it's that simple.?
    I am pretty handy mechanically, but I have been a little reserved on doing this simple project. Don't want to screw something simple up since we are talking about a controlled explosion that takes place less than six inches from my brain. I have a smith that's going to give me a quote. If he can do it for about what I would have in the tools I will probably just let him do it. I have too many tools laying around now that I bought for one- time jobs. Thanks for the info though. If the smith quotes me something crazy I will look into it.
     
  5. nddodd

    nddodd Well-Known Member

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    Yes, IMO it's just that simple. To me haveing a savage is a joy to be able to swap barrel and or bolt head at any time and have any caliber you want. To each his own though, either way you will enjoy your savage.

    Happy shooting,

    Nathan
     
  6. Trickymissfit

    Trickymissfit Well-Known Member

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    *Here's what you will need, and a couple items you just might need. Of course your gonna want a vise and blocks to hold onto the action with (note: some folks prefer to hold the barrel). You will probably need a hammer to give the barrel nut wrench a smack the first time the nut is removed. After the nut is unscrewed about a thread or so the entire barrel can be unscrewed out of the action by hand.

    * Going back together, I like to give the barrel threads a very light coat of Neversieze with Nickel (do not use Loctite Antisieze!), and then screw the barrel into the action till it's about two threads shy of being where it needs to be. I then drop in the headspace gauge and screw the barrel into the contact with the headspace gauge. Now screw the nut into the action till it's solid. Now just tighten the nut till it has about 25 ft. lb. of torque on it. Pull the head space gauge out of the action and wipe off any of the Neversieze on it. Reinstall it and check out the feel on the bolt when closing. The barrel nut will normally pull the barrel forward about .0025" to .0035" taking out the clearence in the thread as well as stretching the thread ever so slightly. Making it be in ridgid contact with the female thread.

    * tools you might need in a pinch (if the nut is very tight).
    1. An internal action wrench
    2. always keep three or four once fired cases in a plastic bag for further checks on the headspace
    3. a 12 pack of Sam Adams October Fest beer
    gary
     
  7. shortgrass

    shortgrass Well-Known Member

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    Remove the plunger/ejector assembly form the bolt so you can 'feel' the headspace gage more easily, you won't be fighting that spring.
     
  8. CRNA

    CRNA Well-Known Member

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    Thank you guys for all of the good instruction. I may just have to give it a go!
     
  9. Axtell3

    Axtell3 Well-Known Member

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    I can't ell from the original post if you allready have the rifle to be changed, but if it were me, I'd go with a model 112 or 110, skip the accu stock. It hasn't proved to be any better in my rifles than tupperware. My preference is laminate, for recoil and appearance.
    The barrel channel will need more than a little work in the 111 fncs.
    All the other info looks good.
    Have fun, then have a blast!
     
  10. CRNA

    CRNA Well-Known Member

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    I don't already have the rifle. I would go with an aftermarket stock in the 110, but I think that would put me over budget. Can anybody else testify for or against the accustock?
     
  11. robotman

    robotman Member

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    I have a 112 BVSS in 7 mm rem mag ( 26" fluted heavy barrelgun)) and a 11 FCNS in 270. I would go with the laminate stock if you can find it! The stock on the 11 FCNS flexes so much in the fore arm that it is not really a good sand bag gun. My 112 BVSS is pretty rare I guess, they don't sell the long action lam stock guns anymore but you can get an aftermarket stock or just buy an old wood one and add to it (if you aren't that concerned with looks). I have had the barrel on and off of my 7 mm Mag several times. I have also recently had a Savage 110 (old style) that I changed barrels on quite a bit. I had a 30.06 barrel and a .308 barrel for that rifle and swapping them out was about a 1/2 hour job. Buy the "go" headspace gauge, it is the minimum chamber / headspace length. I used a Forster from Midway, about $23.

    I have an old pipe vise I bought on eBay and some wooden blocks I made out of a maple butcher block that disintegrated in the weather out on the patio.. I drilled a 3/4" hole through a 2" x 2" chunk about 3" long using a boring bit to get a clean hole. Then cut it in half with your favorite saw. I made some blocks with a paddle bit and they worked okay too. I bought a rosin bag at Sports Authority for $3. A larger bench vise will hold the blocks just fine, you just have to point the barrel off at and angle.

    The previous poster is right about using a hammer to loosen the barrel nut, sorta... Use a rubber mallet or wooden block and your wrench and barrel nut will last longer. I used a barrel wrench from Midway too. It works fine. Hold the wrench so there is no slack in the direction you will be turning and give it a sharp rap. They aren't that tight. The barrel will unscrew easily.

    Setting the barrel takes some practice. You will be completely safe following the method described in the previous post.

    I "mess" with it a few times at the tightening part of the operation. I found on my stainless gun that screwing the barrel down onto the gauge and just tightening the nut left the bolt a little loose when closed on the gauge. I hand snug the barrel down on the gauge, un-latch the bolt, and tighten the barrel about 1/16 of a turn tighter. I snug the barrel nut down by just patting the barrel wrench with the palm of my hand and then close the bolt again. I saw a pretty good .avi online somewhere about truing up a Rem. action and the guy was pretty proud when he could "just" close the bolt. I do it by feel and it takes a few tries to get it just right LOL. It is not tight but there is no play.

    It is something you should learn to do IMO! Don't trust the barrel fit. If you are going to reload rimmed rounds you will want to know all about the chamber headspaceing on your rifle. Remember that the rim is what the gauge is bottoming on. you need to know the length of the chamber AFTER the rim to really reload well and safely. Fire a factory round or a freshly loaded new case. Measure the case length with a case length gauge. Re-size 2-3 thou. less when reloading.

    I take my barrel off when I want to really clean it well. The vise holds it so much easier than trying to hold the whole rifle...
     
  12. CRNA

    CRNA Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for all of the good advice guys. Now, does anyone know if a model 111 fcns stock will accept the shillen one inch bull barrel without doing too much work on the accustock?
     
  13. Axtell3

    Axtell3 Well-Known Member

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    judging from the laminated stock I put a varmint barrel in, Yes.
    Stocky and Boyds both have tutorial pages you can look at to see. not specific to the accustock but to barrel contour.
    That Bull is almost an inch thick all the way to the end. the way my accustock is set up, i'd be taking about a 1/4 all the way around.
     
  14. CRNA

    CRNA Well-Known Member

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    So you are saying that the bull barrel with the accustock will not work?