Savage metal, what kind of metal is it

[camoman80]

Basically I am going to try my hand and making my own picatiny rail for my savage 110 fcp 338 lapua mag and was thinking it would be a good ideal to make the base out of the same type of steal as the action. I know it is cast but do any of y'all know any more details about it?
Thanks
Matt

 

[kcebcj]

Here is what Seekins uses and its one of the best in the business
[FONT=&quot]Quick Overview[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Seekins Precision Picatinny scope bases are precisely manufactured to the 1913 picatinny spec. All of our rifle bases incorporate a recoil lug built into the base to eliminate stress on the mounting screws as well as eliminate any movement during recoil. Seekins Precision bases are available in 0, 20 and 30 MOA to add adjustment in your scope for extended range. We chose grade 8, T15 Torx screws to solidly attach our base to your action. Made to perfection from 7075 Billet aluminum and Type III hard coat anodize. Weight is approximately 2 ounces on a short action base. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Details[/FONT]
·[FONT=&quot] 7075-T6 Billet [/FONT]
·[FONT=&quot] Continuous rail [/FONT]
·[FONT=&quot] One piece design [/FONT]
·[FONT=&quot] Built to 1913 Picatinny Mil-Spec [/FONT]
·[FONT=&quot] Type III Class 2 Hardcoat Anodized Finish[/FONT]

 

[geargrinder]

The Savage action is not cast. They did experiment with cast actions but that was decades ago.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I believe the only cast action is Ruger's and it's investment cast in the Mini 14's and 30's. Could be wrong about that but I don't think so.

Ruger owns their own investment casting facility and does investment casting on a per jpb basis for others. I believe the do golf club heads.

 

[camoman80]

Thanks guys, but what I am looking for is what kind of steal is the action on te gun made of ( savage 110 fcp 338 lapua) Basically my thought is if I know what the action is made of and I make my rail out of it I will be maxhing expansion rates in different conditions such as temperature.

 

[Trickymissfit]

Greenleaf stated once that they used either 4340 or 4360 pretreat steel in their recievers. I'd use a Farell steel base and dowl pin it to the action. You really want something with similar expansion rates if at all possible.
gary

 

[camoman80]

thanks that is what i am looking for.

 

[shortgrass]

I'd say "you're frettin' over a moot point,,, buy a quality made steel base/rail and be happy". There are alot more variables to be concerned with than this. And, if ya' just have to make one, 4140HT is readily available in small quantities where as the two TM listed could be hard to find (in small quantities).

 

[Trickymissfit]

I'd say "you're frettin' over a moot point,,, buy a quality made steel base/rail and be happy". There are alot more variables to be concerned with than this. And, if ya' just have to make one, 4140HT is readily available in small quantities where as the two TM listed could be hard to find (in small quantities).

I cannot for the life of me see why anybody would want to make their own. Looks easy, but when you start setting up those gauge lines for the dual dove tail and keeping them parallel it becomes a true pain in the butt. One side is easy, but a second one will often drive you battey. It is doable with construction holes and good tooling balls, but for $75 you can buy a Farrell. I do recommend dowl pinning the base to the action as this adds a little more rigidity to the reciever.
gary

 

[shortgrass]

I cannot for the life of me see why anybody would want to make their own. Looks easy, but when you start setting up those gauge lines for the dual dove tail and keeping them parallel it becomes a true pain in the butt. One side is easy, but a second one will often drive you battey. It is doable with construction holes and good tooling balls, but for $75 you can buy a Farrell. I do recommend dowl pinning the base to the action as this adds a little more rigidity to the reciever.
gary

Agreed! To begin with, you'd need a pretty 'tight' mill and a quality made vise, no Chicom stuff. Then there's the tooling,,, how many scope mounts/rails do you suppose could be bought for what just the cutting tools would cost. You'll need the same set-up skills whether you're using a manuel mill of a CNC. If it's a CNC you should figure programing in, too. Like I said, there are alot more things to concentrate on than common materials for action and scope base/rail. Are you not dealing with a production built rifle, to begin with?

 

[Trickymissfit]

Agreed! To begin with, you'd need a pretty 'tight' mill and a quality made vise, no Chicom stuff. Then there's the tooling,,, how many scope mounts/rails do you suppose could be bought for what just the cutting tools would cost. You'll need the same set-up skills whether you're using a manuel mill of a CNC. If it's a CNC you should figure programing in, too. Like I said, there are alot more things to concentrate on than common materials for action and scope base/rail. Are you not dealing with a production built rifle, to begin with?

The price of a Kurtt vise these days is scarey!! You'd have to do the mill work off the face of the end mill, or plan on grinding the dove tails. Plus that piece of steel is going to curl up on you like a leaf spring!! If I had to build one, I'd do it off a rotary table (serious bucks). Better yet would be to do it on an old shaper, and pray you have your angles right. For sure a Bridgeport is out of the question for a good and strait mount.
gary

 

[SidecarFlip]

Gary....

I have a spare Troyke I'll sell you and a Parlec which is as good for jaw deflection as a Kurt is as well. Got 2 LSS Digital Height Masters with extension bases too and a set of Weber Cro-blocks.

 

[Trickymissfit]

Gary....

I have a spare Troyke I'll sell you and a Parlec which is as good for jaw deflection as a Kurt is as well. Got 2 LSS Digital Height Masters with extension bases too and a set of Weber Cro-blocks.

I don't know what I'd do with them, but know somebody that might be interested
gary