Savage Bear Hunter vs Long Range Hunter

7sand8s

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Hey guys, I have been reading this sight for a few months and have just started shooting long ranges (being taught) this year. I bought a Savage Bear Hunter in the 300wsm in the summer of 2010. I hunted with it this year and was impressed with the killing power of a 300wsm..(nothing ran) but that was also due to high shoulder shots which I have learned drop deer DRT. I only have the gun for hunting.
My question is did I make the wrong move in buying the BEAR Hunter instead of the Long Range Hunter. here is only an inch difference in the barrel, but my Bear Hunter seems to drift after the second shot,,is it because of such a hot load. I havent needed to take any follow up shots.
It seems since learing about long range shooting, and the Long Range Hunter having the adjustable check plate, ( 4-16x50mm Vortex PST 30mm tube)would make more since and has 1 more inch of barrel. Plus the Stainless Barrel on the Bear Hunter Glares when shooting toward the sun in the evenings and blurs/clouds my vision.
Just tell me something to make me feel better. I can sell the Bear Hunter and get the LRH because I get guns at wholesale prices.

Also all I have been shooting is Remington SCIRROCO 180gr...does anybody have a got hand load for the 300WSM
 
I wouldnt sell the gun. The reason that your second shot is drifting is most likely that the barrel isnt free-floated. I would float it and do a good bedding job, rather yourself or by a smith, and start handloading. Your point of impact is probably going to change after a few shots even with the barrel floated. That would be due to heat bringing out the stress in you barrel.
Scirrocco II's are excellent bullets, but I have never hand loaded with them.
 
I wouldnt sell the gun. The reason that your second shot is drifting is most likely that the
barrel isnt free-floated
. I would float it and do a good bedding job, rather yourself or by a smith, and start handloading. Your point of impact is probably going to change after a few shots even with the barrel floated. That would be due to heat bringing out the stress in you barrel.
Scirrocco II's are excellent bullets, but I have never hand loaded with them.
its an accu-stock...its free floating
 
How many 5 shot groups have you shot with it? I am guessing by your post, not many. When you say it "seems" to drift, that implies you do not know for sure. To be sure, you have to have a sufficient data group to evaluate. A couple of shots to check zero doesn't cut it. Shoot some groups with it, and some groups with a smaller caliber rifle of known quality, and post them on here. That will give us some info to give you an idea of what you have. You don't have the
"wrong" rifle, just need to keep practicing. Quality practice.
 
The barrel length is not the issue, I have friends with 22" 300wm that are tack drivers. The slight velocity loss should not cause a problem in accuracy.

You can have your rifle bead blasted very inexpensive and get rid of that shinny finish and add a Karsten cheek riser just like the LRH for cheap think they are $60 or so and go on easy.

My guess would be check accuracy and if it is an issue the ADJ break on the bear hunter could be the issue. I am not familiar with the savage system but I know the BOSS on Brownings can be a mess and anything adjustable on a barrel just seams to be inviting issues to me?
 
The barrel length is not the issue, I have friends with 22" 300wm that are tack drivers. The slight velocity loss should not cause a problem in accuracy.

You can have your rifle bead blasted very inexpensive and get rid of that shinny finish and add a Karsten cheek riser just like the LRH for cheap think they are $60 or so and go on easy.

My guess would be check accuracy and if it is an issue the ADJ break on the bear hunter could be the issue. I am not familiar with the savage system but I know the BOSS on Brownings can be a mess and anything adjustable on a barrel just seams to be inviting issues to me?

The gun does shoot better with the break closed..thats one thing I have noticed.
also can you recommend someone who will bead blast it.
 
Go to Savage.com. I believe there is some information on tuning the stock to the load you shoot. Because of the locking mechanism on the recoil lug, you can tune the action to the stock with torque adjustments on the action screws. The Karsten is a great option. I have one and it's easy to install. Took me all of five minutes. $68 shipped to your door.

The other conclusion I come too, is the load itself. I have after loading thousands of rounds that if a load isn't properly tailored to the rifle you use, you always get a point of impact change on the first shot known as the cold bore shot. Then usually the point of impact changes with consecutive shots. I have been able to tailor my loads that the cold bore impacts with the group. You may have to try different factory ammo to find something more in tune with your barrel.

Tank
 
If the Accustock is not properly tuned it won't shoot right. And if you have ever taken it out of the stock, maybe to adjust the trigger, and just tightened down all screws, the barrel may not be properly floating, or you may have more pressure on one point in the action than another. The accustock is great but it is definitely a pain in the butt. Once you figure it out it is not hard to tune at all, and you can get it right every time. If you have already checked this and you know for a fact it is right, then feel free to disregard this.
 
I have a stainless muzzle loader that I just spray painted the action/barrel with matte black. It worked good. Have to watch what chemicals get on it, but the MZ ckeans w/soap & water

I didn't want a shiny rifle to hunt elk at 50-100 yds
 
i wouldnt get a different gun. a longer barrel doesnt make a gun more accurate in fact vertical stringing is more prevalent in longer barrels and takes more time and expense to deal with than a shorter more stout barrel.

personally if your not happy with it i would try ditching the accustock and get a stock with a full length allumn block and have it bedded from the rear of the action to the first 3" of the barrel. load tuning will be a walkin the park after thatgun)
 
If the Accustock is not properly tuned it won't shoot right. And if you have ever taken it out of the stock, maybe to adjust the trigger, and just tightened down all screws, the barrel may not be properly floating, or you may have more pressure on one point in the action than another. The accustock is great but it is definitely a pain in the butt. Once you figure it out it is not hard to tune at all, and you can get it right every time. If you have already checked this and you know for a fact it is right, then feel free to disregard this.

can you explain to me how to tune the stock??? I have taken the stock off to adjust the trigger and that could be my problem. Is there anywhere to get more educated on this?
 
can you explain to me how to tune the stock??? I have taken the stock off to adjust the trigger and that could be my problem. Is there anywhere to get more educated on this?

I forget where I saw a video or read an article on tuning the stock. Google it. I'm sure you'll find something.

Tank
 
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