Savage 111 LRH 338 Lapua chambering problem?

lv2hunt

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Hello,

I recently purchased a new Model 111 LRH Savage in 338 Lapua and am having a problem getting my loads to chamber properly, the bolt will only close to about the 3 o' clock position. My local Gunsmith told me that Savages sometimes have these "tight" chambering issues and that I should just bump the shoulder back, sounded a little strange to me so I wanted to verify before doing so. My currrent load is listed below, thanks for the help.

-Using RCBS FL dies and a RCBS RC Press
-Verified length and weight of brass was within specs, cleaned, lubed and FL sized the brass, chamfered case mouths in and out, uniformed and deburred the primer pockets.

LOAD:
Lapua brass
CCI-250 primers
91.0 grains of H-1000
Berger Hybrid 300 gr.
3.720" OAL

Thanks,
lv2hunt
 
i had the same problem with my 6.5x284 savage lrh... I ended up having to buy forester dies for mine.. the rcbs for some reason did something weird to either the shoulder or neck and wouldnt let the bolt close all the way.. only about 3/4 or so.. are you making sure your backing your full length die off atleast a half turn after you touch the sellholder? you could be jamming the neck a little.. try messing with the location of your die.. just resize a case backing your die out a little and see if your round chambers.. just some things I have tried when getting a new rifle with tight chamber

kasey
 
Sorry, I should have given that information as well. The die was set on the shellholder than an additional 1/8 turn was given.

lv2hunt
 
I have the same rifle / cal / and dies and had no issues. Just to make sure you have the die set to be at full "cam-over" on the upstroke? I have used Hornady and Laupa brass with no issues. I load 300 gr Seirra @ 3.681"
 
I am definitely getting "cam over" on the press just a light one, depth is currently set to the RCBS shell holder on the upstroke and then an additional 1/8 turn clockwise. I have been doing some digging on the board and some say that I may need to go up to 1/2 or even 3/4 turn total to alleviate my chambering / shoulder problem. I have never had a problem with reloading like this before or a rifle this finicky. Any advice is appreciated.

Thank you,
Brandon
 
Found in another post, I guess I will try this next...

What you need to do is back-light the gap between the die's base and the shell holder, after you've ran the case all the way up into the die.

The Savage chamber is very tight...

If you take a flash light and hold it behind the press, looking at die base/shell holder junction, and see if there is a gap between the shell holder with the case in the die, that'll be of some help.

Most folks just adjust the die to touch the shell holder without the case in the die... but once the press is under a load, the linkage springs a bit and you'll find a 1/32" gap (for instance) between the base of the die and the shell holder, whereas there was no gap when you adjusted the die with no load on the press.

I've loaded for a lot of Savage rifles over the past few years, and they all have tight chambers, and they all require an absolute FL sizing to get the shoulder back enough for the cases to chamber.

so again... check the die base/shell holder union with a flashlight with the case in the die... see if there's a gap. if there is, screw the die down another 1/4 turn or whatever it takes to *just* eliminate that gap.

The cases should chamber easily, and you should be able to close the bolt with one finger...

Dan
__________________
 
Interesting as I have the same rifle and caliber as you but have been shooting factory loads (and saving up brass of course). I believe I'll go with redding dies instead of my usual RCBS.

I'm wondering if instead of full length resize. can you just neck size as the cases are already fireformed to the chamber???

I always neck size my .223 benchrest instead of FL resize.

Scratching my head as usual........:)
 
Hi, have the same rifle here in New-Caledonia and have no problem with chamber using PPU or Lapua brass.Have LYMAN dies Full and seating with a 1/4 turn back touching shell holder and 1/2 millimeter gap with no problem.
What is your accuracy with 91gr and 300 hybrid on long distance shot 500y and over?
Thanks
 
Hi, have the same rifle here in New-Caledonia and have no problem with chamber using PPU or Lapua brass.Have LYMAN dies Full and seating with a 1/4 turn back touching shell holder and 1/2 millimeter gap with no problem.
What is your accuracy with 91gr and 300 hybrid on long distance shot 500y and over?
Thanks

PPU is JUNK. Been there and done (tried to do) that..... It's cheap. Thats it.
 
Try the PPU brass with 79gr of H4350 and 250gr Game King, CCI 250 and 90.40 mm OAL on the 338 111 LRH at 100 and 200 yards and try again with lapua and tell me if it's Junk as u say.10 reloads no sign of cracking!!!!!!!
NC Hunter.
 
Apparently, you are loading light loads and not developing excessive pressure or pressure near the published maximum for that cartridge because they would crack at much less than 10 reloads, without...see below.

Maybe I should qualify that 'Junk' statement a bit.

The factory loads are junk as in hard primers. I originally bought 100 rounds of PPU in 20 boxes to break in the 111 and had a number of misfires. I raiesd a stink with the PPU distributor and got my money back ( with the help of Cabelas Purchasing Department I might add). I've since pulled the bullets ion the remaining rounds, dumped the powder, popped the primers...carefully... and they are resting on the shelf at this time, so, Junk as in factory loads. Can't say about the brass except...

Because of the case design and rhe pressue developed, Lapua 338 cases will crack in the neck after repeated loadings if not annealed, actually all the brands will. Now, if Hornady has improved their base heat treat, maybe they will retain primers. Anyone have an update on that scenario??

Neck cracks are common because the brass work hardens and is no longer ductile. Annealing is the only solution.

Sometimes a 'bargain' isn't really a bargain after all. Still loaded PPU factory rounds are cheap compared to Lapua rounds, just not reliable. If this gun was a range gun, that would be a non-issue. It isn't, so reliability of ammunition is a major issue.

I'm sure Jeff will chime in at some point.... He's the .338 guru.

me, I'm just a hobby shooter.
 
I am going to go in a different direction than the others who posted. When you close your bolt pay attention to the rear baffel on the bolt. Make sure that it is properly alligned and not binding when you cam the bolt over to close it. You may need to take the bolt apart and polish the parts a little in order for them to travel smoothly.
 
for your loads, did you use virgin brass or you got brass fired from the other chamber? I had similar issues when I change barrels on my Savage 12 LRPV, my new chamber was different (tight chamber) and FL sizing previously fired brass from my old chamber wouldn't fit, there is a fix for it, but I'm not going in to details if its not the issue you are dealing with.
 
Yes, all virgin brass being used. Thanks for all of the ideas, please keep them coming. I will be trying a few things this week to get this figured out.

Thanks,
Brandon
 
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