Same Ft/Lbs at 500 yards, is heavier grain bullet more effective?

I think B-Lot Banga explained this best. I did not know the OP was looking to buy a new gun. In this case buy a rifle chambered in a crtrage that will shoot heavy bullets. Make sure the barrel ofsaid rifle is rifled to stabilize heavy for caliber bullets and have fun. Always remember you can't kill your game to dead. In most cases a heavy bullet kills better but damages less meat. What chambering are you looking at for your new rifle.
Now come on Bill....what exactly do you mean when you say..."You can't kill your game DEAD"...HOLY HELL...!!!!! How many have you loaded ALIVE! At my age it's hard enough to load the dead ones!
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I think B-Lot Banga explained this best. I did not know the OP was looking to buy a new gun. In this case buy a rifle chambered in a crtrage that will shoot heavy bullets. Make sure the barrel ofsaid rifle is rifled to stabilize heavy for caliber bullets and have fun. Always remember you can't kill your game to dead. In most cases a heavy bullet kills better but damages less meat. What chambering are you looking at for your new rifle.
I've gone around and around with this. I bought a Ultra7 suppressor, but wont have that for 4-14 months. My plan for the next gun was to have it suppressed with a 18-18.5" barrel, so that barrel+suppressor was 25-26"

First I decided on a 30-06 and bought a Tikka T3x chambered in 30-06 because of factory load bullet weight choices and I heard that 308 did really well with shorter barrels, so i figured the 30-06 would be more likely to overcome the reduction in barrel as its longer case than 308, but then i read the extra powder is just wasted and it really doesn't help as much. Maybe a faster burning powder will help (but then i'd have to get into hand loading).

Then I started reading about 277 Fury, 6.5PRC, 6.8western, 280AI, 270wsm........

I ordered a Vortex LHT 3.5x15-42 with MOA reticle.

So I think what i'm going to do is setup the 30-06 with my new scope, once ammunition is more available, i'll find a round it likes to shoot (thinking either 165gr or 180gr) and then experiment with chopping the barrel 1" at a time and using a chronograph to obtain muzzle velocity numbers as well as changes in grouping down to 18". At that time maybe the 277fury is out, or I decide to rebarrel the tikka in 280AI, or I just rock the 18" 30-06 as is.

I realize i'm very new to modifying guns, bullets, calibers, ect. I like to tinker, and i like a challenge. I'm no longer into wrenching on cars, so I need to find another outlet for fun.

I'm sure the eyes are rolling by some. "a 18" 30-06 will shoot like ****", "muzzle blast will be amazing", "louder than hell".......Who knows. The gun was only $587 and i can't find any real data on somebody that's chopped a 30-06. Maybe i destroy a perfectly fine barrel. Haven't heard a gun person ever say you can have too many guns.

I do thank all of you for posting on my thread trying to help me out. I am new, but promise to keep an open mind.
 
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I've gone around and around with this. I bought a Ultra7 suppressor, but wont have that for 4-14 months. My plan for the next gun was to have it suppressed with a 18-18.5" barrel, so that barrel+suppressor was 25-26"

First I decided on a 30-06 and bought a Tikka T3x chambered in 30-06 because of factory load bullet weight choices and I heard that 308 did really well with shorter barrels, so i figured the 30-06 would be more likely to overcome the reduction in barrel as its longer case than 308, but then i read the extra powder is just wasted and it really doesn't help as much. Maybe a faster burning powder will help (but then i'd have to get into hand loading).

Then I started reading about 277 Fury, 6.5PRC, 6.8western, 280AI, 270wsm........

I ordered a Vortex LHT 3.5x15-42 with MOA reticle.

So I think what i'm going to do is setup the 30-06 with my new scope, once ammunition is more available, i'll find a round it likes to shoot (thinking either 165gr or 180gr) and then experiment with chopping the barrel 1" at a time and using a chronograph to obtain muzzle velocity numbers as well as changes in grouping down to 18". At that time maybe the 277fury is out, or I decide to rebarrel the tikka in 280AI, or I just rock the 18" 30-06 as is.

I realize i'm very new to modifying guns, bullets, calibers, ect. I like to tinker, and i like a challenge. I'm no longer into wrenching on cars, so I need to find another outlet for fun.

I'm sure the eyes are rolling by some. "a 18" 30-06 will shoot like ****", "muzzle blast will be amazing", "louder than hell".......Who knows. The gun was only $587 and i can't find any real data on somebody that's chopped a 30-06. Maybe i destroy a perfectly fine barrel. Haven't heard a gun person ever say you can have too many guns.

I do thank all of you for posting on my thread trying to help me out. I am new, but promise to keep an open mind.

It's only a barrel and you can have a brand new prefit made for only $360 from preferred barrels. Play with what you have and if you end up with a barrel too short just buy another barrel. You can always buy new "drop off" barrel for tikkas that people spin off everyday. Lots of them floating around. You can even try different cartridges as long as it's the same bolt head so the combinations are endless. You made a great choice with a tikka especially if you want to tinker with it yourself. Good luck and enjoy!! Aloha
 
It's only a barrel and you can have a brand new prefit made for only $360 from preferred barrels. Play with what you have and if you end up with a barrel too short just buy another barrel. You can always buy new "drop off" barrel for tikkas that people spin off everyday. Lots of them floating around. You can even try different cartridges as long as it's the same bolt head so the combinations are endless. You made a great choice with a tikka especially if you want to tinker with it yourself. Good luck and enjoy!! Aloha
Well good. I thought i made a decent choice in the Tikka. From what I read the actions are all the same, so if I go short or maginum it'll work. I heard the stocks aren't the greatest, but the actions and trigger are good, and I knew I was going to rebarrel it most likely anyway.

As one person I read said, "the best Tikka action is $597, it just so happens to come with a trigger, stock, AND barrel." lol.
 
Never had a tikka but a good bud bought one a few years ago. After sampling several factory loads to find what it liked best we proceeded to test at 750 yards. He shot around half minute as I recall. We were out shooting marmots last year and he center punched one at 562 yards, first shot. He doesn't shoot enough but every time we're out with that .270 he amazes himself. It's a shooter!
 
I think currently the closest we have to that tipped partition for close and long ranges is the long range accubond. I've read they are more difficult to tune than the regular accubond so I'm still using the original. I have a box of 210 grain lrab's for a long range 300 WSM so will see first hand when that rifle is done.
"Difficult to tune"? Not understanding your meaning
 
This sounds like a bated thread to me, you're going to have a bunch of guys chime in about making spectacular elk kills with 6mms..
What you get with a heavier bullet is more mass, and with similar construction more penetration and larger wound channel.
You'll appreciate the heavier bullets advantage if the shot is in the shoulder
I concur. My estimate is the faster & lighter bullet is going to open up faster & dump most of its energy shallower than the heavier bullet. The heavier bullet is going to retain more ft/lbs energy once it enters the animal and drive deeper, thus using up more ft/lbs energy along the way and deeper into the animal (elk)
 
"Difficult to tune"? Not understanding your meaning
Find a good node and seating depth, then to maintain that as the throat slowly erodes. From what I've read that bullet is pretty particular about maintaining distance to the lands. I'll get a better idea if this is correct when I start working with them.
 
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