Ruger no 1 in 7stw

Thanks for info. I'm not super familiar with Ruger no 1s. My buddy is wanting to put one together for long range rig
When you could pickup a an affordable rifle to rebarrel now everything is doubled seems like. finding one under a grand means its probably beat up pretty badly. But yes it can be done with ease just cost, i had one being done at the pacnor plant when it burned down! :) They were awesome to deal with by the way, hope he finds one my recommendation would be keep an eye on gunbroker. The lam stainless models pop up every once in a while; If he gets one he will like it,
 
They are pretty rare finds. The best way to come up with one would be by looking on Armslist, Gunbroker, Guns international, and GunsAmerica.

I love the Ruger No 1 but it's not noted for being the most accurate platform available and if you get one that doesn't shoot there's very little you can do to make them shoot much better.

Your buddy would probably be a good bit of money ahead and still have something extremely unique that will shoot lights out would probably be to go to a Pre 64 Model 70 or Modern Model 70 CRF action.

He's also up against a wall in that there's not a whole lot of smiths willing to rebarrel a No 1 so he might want to reconsider his choice here.
 
Most accuracy problems with them can be blamed on triggers. couple hundred dollars that can be fixed. I have 10 or more and the majority of them are half inch guns. Certainly more accurate rifles on the market but for hunting applications, i find them extremely fun brings a little nostalgia for me anyways. Although i would never fault anyone for finding a pre64 70 anything. STW in general are pretty hard animals to find right now in any rifle configurations. Ive always found if it's what you want not much changing a hard headed man! :)
 
Most accuracy problems with them can be blamed on triggers. couple hundred dollars that can be fixed. I have 10 or more and the majority of them are half inch guns. Certainly more accurate rifles on the market but for hunting applications, i find them extremely fun brings a little nostalgia for me anyways. Although i would never fault anyone for finding a pre64 70 anything. STW in general are pretty hard animals to find right now in any rifle configurations. Ive always found if it's what you want not much changing a hard headed man! :)
Triggers and the fact you really can't float the barrel.

I see some No 1's occasionally on GB and not insane prices, another place to check is Cabela's gun libraries, they are linked to the other Cabela's across the country but the online lists I mentioned seem to be the most productive overall.

My first five no 1's were in 220 Swift, and another in 25-06. I regret letting the last of them get away but I was headed overseas again and figured someone else would get a lot more out of them than I was going to.
 
One of the accurizing tricks for a No 1 besides a trigger, is a pressure screw installed in the fore end just ahead of the attachment screw for applying a bit of pressure to the barrel for harmonic consistency. I still have a few No1s, my swift being one I would never part with. Along with my Stainless STW.
 
Mark Penrod, Penrod Precision nationally noted Ruger No. 1 smith. He has done work for me and top notch! Machines his own bases and rings for No1's plus whatever.

Located in North Manchester, IN.
 
Mark Penrod, Penrod Precision nationally noted Ruger No. 1 smith. He has done work for me and top notch! Machines his own bases and rings for No1's plus whatever.

Located in North Manchester, IN.
Very good to know,

I've heard of the forend but haven't needed to do so on mine. Not to say I won't, love my ruger 1's.

220 swift is a great one isn't it? I finally have one too, mine shoots 55 and 60 grain bullets very well really nice factory trigger.

You have any red pads? I don't mine are all black I have some decent wood stocks seems like the red pad older ones have some awesome wood;
 
The forearm adjustment screw "might" help to some extent but I always found the precise placement of the forearm on bag, cross stick was far more important to get consistent accuracy. I even marked my forearm with marker that wipes off to make sure it is resting in exact location each time of shot. The forearm hand pressure is also critical and it takes some time to get a consistent pressure hold so shots are consistent. JMO.
 
The forearm adjustment screw "might" help to some extent but I always found the precise placement of the forearm on bag, cross stick was far more important to get consistent accuracy. I even marked my forearm with marker that wipes off to make sure it is resting in exact location each time of shot. The forearm hand pressure is also critical and it takes some time to get a consistent pressure hold so shots are consistent. JMO.
I have also heard of bedding the fore end from the screw back, but have never tried it.
 
There is no doubt in my mind Mark Penrod can improve a No 1 whether trigger work which he has done for me (awesome!) as well as forearm hanger issues. The real problem with No 1's is that darn crummy rib for mounting rings. Mark eliminates and replaces with his own custom bases which addresses the rib deflection from various reasons. This would be my first accurizing step for No 1.
 
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