Ruger Mark II Stainless 243

BLK

Active Member
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Oct 1, 2010
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36
Location
NY
I purchased a Ruger Mark II stainless steel 243 with synthetic stock. It is for my grandson. I have attempted to develop a reload to get it to shoot sub one inch
(three shot) groups at 100 yards. 2 inch is the best I can get. I have free floated the barrel (it hit the stock in about five places) and tried various powder weights with Nosler 100 grain partition bullets. Used IMR 4895 and IMR 4831. No success.

Using an Astec 2.5 to 10 power scope and sand bagged bench rest.

Am I expecting too much from this short barreled gun? Any suggestions for loads or
other things to try would be appreciated.
 
I have this same rifle and it took 30 differant load combos to find a good one. I started with an 85 gn speer bt and at 25 yds it was a cal size hole with 10 stots, at 100 yds it was 1 inch, at 200 yds the bullets were tumbling. I found 2 load combos that shot inside 1/2 inch at 100 yds, both were with hot loads of reloader 25, 105 grn hornady and 107 grn smk.
 
You can glass seat the action yourself for just $30 for a kit. This helped my ruger m77 mark II in 220 swift. It was shooting just over an 1" before and .5" after.
Also if this is a new rifle, run Tubbs final finish through it this also helps greatly for me in two of my rifles.
Hope this helps
Eric
 
I have the exact same gun that I bought new about 10 years ago. It is 100% stock and it shoots 1" groups at 100 yards with Fed Premium.

Is it possible that free floating the barrel made yours worse?

You mention a short barrel...how short?

Maybe I got lucky and got a good one.

Rhino Hunter
 
I have the exact same gun that I bought new about 10 years ago. It is 100% stock and it shoots 1" groups at 100 yards with Fed Premium.

Is it possible that free floating the barrel made yours worse?

You mention a short barrel...how short?

Maybe I got lucky and got a good one.

Rhino Hunter


Some factory rifles have designed pressure points to aid in accuracy. I can't tell you what companies or model's, but sometimes removing them can cause inaccuracies. One would think by re-bedding the action that accuracy could be recovered if that was the case. My model 7 Rem had a built in pressure point and for the most part shot well. I sanded out that part and free floated the barrel. Then I bedded the stock and adjusted the trigger. It is a tack driver now. I use 37.5grns of IMR 4064 w/ 95grn SST in my 243. Work up to that load because it is over max.

Tank
 
I have a Ruger hawkeye all weather that kind of had the same problem. The rifle would group 3 or 4 shots out of 5 nice and tight (under MOA), but would throw the rest. I also free floated the barrel but this didn't help. There was a video out there somewhere, I think it was by Midway, in short it said tap the bottom of the stock with the palm of your hand, if you hear it smack the barrel, open it up some more. I tried this and kept opening up the barrel channel, especially under the stock till I didn't get that clicking sound. Once done right the rifle stopped throwing those few rounds. Try opening it up some more.
 
I have a Ruger hawkeye all weather that kind of had the same problem. The rifle would group 3 or 4 shots out of 5 nice and tight (under MOA), but would throw the rest. I also free floated the barrel but this didn't help. There was a video out there somewhere, I think it was by Midway, in short it said tap the bottom of the stock with the palm of your hand, if you hear it smack the barrel, open it up some more. I tried this and kept opening up the barrel channel, especially under the stock till I didn't get that clicking sound. Once done right the rifle stopped throwing those few rounds. Try opening it up some more.

Interesting...

Do you remember what part of the stock you had to tap, and from what direction?

TX.

RH
 
check the 3 action screws.
I found that the rifles usually perform best with the front tightened firm first then the rear snugged tight. The important thing is to only lightly snug the middle screw as the action is unsuported at this screw and tightening it puts stres in the action. If you turn it more than an 1/8th turn after it seats your too tight.
 
try 85's and I4064 or varget for an accuracy load. if you want a deer bullet load all the 100 grainers i have used work real well and shot good. sierra horn and coreloct. my fav is the 95 part . have not tried an 85 part on deer . most of the mule deer i shot with an 85 sierrA hpbt
 
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Yeah, you tap on the bottom of the stock by the front swivel stud. Remember it is a tap not a thump. If you don't have the right clearance, you will hear a clicking sound. I've read many other post and articles that the dollar bill clearance just isn't enough.
 
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Absolutely remember. The fore end at the front was very much in contact with the barrel. Then about 2 inches down toward the chamber the barrel hit the stock on the right. About four inches down it hit the left side of the stock on the upper edge of the stock. Two other places on left side and I ground all if it out to obtain a complete free float. Still only 2 inch three shot groups at 100 yards. It improved by
one half inch in other words. I had an old ruger 77 and had to tape a contact point at the very tip of the stock and barrel. Used electrical tape. Free floated the entire barrel then created this contact point and it went from 2 inch to sub 1/2 inch groups.
I am going to try this "contact point" to see if it will do the same.
 
In my experience the old rugers seem to shoot better than the mark II. Lol most of the Mark II's I have all shoot like crap. 1.5 moa.
 
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