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Rings and bases help!!!!!!!!!!!

Cricket

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2012
Messages
201
I have a weatherby mark v 300 wby. I just mounted my schmidt bender 3-12-42 30 mm scope in talley rings and bases. I put the scope as far back as it will go rite up to the bell and it still has to move back a little to get a clear view but I cant. What can I do now. Which bases and rings do u recommend I want the best or very good ones. Should I go to a rail is it better. It's on a custom build. I didn't have any problem with my Swarovski. Thanks in advance craig
 
Can you turn the problem Talley base around? If that doesn't work, you will need to go to a rail of some type. A Picatinny rail and rings will add some weight, but should give you more eye relief.
 
That's a good idea I will take a look and see if the screw holes will line up for me and give it a shot if not your rite the rail it is which I have no problem with but just the weight. The s&b already added weight to it but if I have no choice I'm fine with that. What do you think about near bases?
 
Almost everything I own now has a rail so don't think that I am against them but if you go to a rail, your optic will probably end up higher and you may need a raised cheek piece. Also when the optic is higher, rifle cant becomes more of an issue.
 
That makes sence and I really don't want that do you no of any two piece rings and bases that would work
 
Almost everything I own now has a rail so don't think that I am against them but if you go to a rail, your optic will probably end up higher and you may need a raised cheek piece. Also when the optic is higher, rifle cant becomes more of an issue.
All true words.

A couple my Weatherby's don't have rails (yet).

Low profile tip off rings are available.

Can't is always important. Just more so the further apart the bore and scope center line.
 
... Can't is always important. Just more so the further apart the bore and scope center line.

I've read that before and I have never understood how that conclusion is achieved.
Theoretically, "Cant" is actually less detectable at (as an examle) the surface of the barrel than it might be six inches above the barrel. As the distance increases from the center of a circle the distance between a zero point and any degree of angle becomes greater and, therefore, more obvious.

https://www.google.com/search?q=fiv...A%2F%2Fwww.tauday.com%2Ftau-manifesto;532;404
 
Talley makes a good product I had the same problem I had to go with the Talley 2 piece to correct was on a 308win so I was not as concerned. The base is lower. I have the Near manufacturing alphahunter mount on 3 of my Weatherby's including a 300. It makes for a great looking rig. I have attached images of the alpha hunter mount on my Accumark I think its my 257 not my 300.

They have 35moa built in to the mount. They are pricy but when you consider mounting 1000.00$+ scope on 1000.00$+ rifle 300.00 is not so much and they are made really well. Check them out at Near Manufacturing.

Good luck and shoot straight

Bob
 

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I've read that before and I have never understood how that conclusion is achieved.
Theoretically, "Cant" is actually less detectable at (as an examle) the surface of the barrel than it might be six inches above the barrel. As the distance increases from the center of a circle the distance between a zero point and any degree of angle becomes greater and, therefore, more obvious.

https://www.google.com/search?q=fiv...A%2F%2Fwww.tauday.com%2Ftau-manifesto;532;404
Yes, cant is less detectable closer to the barrel and we are talking geometry. A curved line, the bullet arch, intersecting a straight line, the sight line in a vertical plane at a point in the distance. When things are perfect, well things are perfect. When they aren't well.... @#$%^!

I'm thinking about how to describe the magnitude of deviation in a straight forward manner. I can "see" it in my head but now I have to describe it. My brain is overheating so I'm going to do something else for a while and come back to this. Perhaps in a thread of it's own.
 
Almost everything I own now has a rail so don't think that I am against them but if you go to a rail, your optic will probably end up higher and you may need a raised cheek piece. Also when the optic is higher, rifle cant becomes more of an issue.
Once you start running rails and long range scopes the objective is often the deciding factor,most my LR scopes are 50 or larger and I need enough ring to clear,I often do that with low or med in Mark 4 or low in NF
 
I would check with [email protected] , It's his job to know these things and he has taken care of me in the past.

As for a simple explanation of the cant issue, keep in mind that your bore axis is pointed "up" to intersect with your optical axis (line of sight). As you rotate your rifle around the optical axis that "up" will follow the rotation so if you have an "x"deg cant to the left, your "up" will be "x"deg to the left so you will be shooting to the left. Along with that, since you have rotated to the left, you don't have as much real "up angle" left so your shots will be a little lower. In 3gun shooting, some of the stages will force you to shoot with the rifle at a 90deg cant, I will back the elevation down so the bore axis and optical axis are parallel with no "up". Then it's just a matter of aiming about 2" left and holding for elevation.

I forgot to add that as you move your optic away from the barrel axis, the angle between the line of sight and bore axis will increase for the same "zero." That increase in angle is why cant becomes more of a problem with taller mounts.
 
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Cricket,
Another thought, being a .300 Weatherby. I'm sure it kicks like a mule. Did you add a recoil pad and increase your length of pull? Have you thought about shortening the stock to put your eye where it belongs instead of moving the optic to your eye?
 
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