Ring height?!?! Why do hunters want them low and bench guys use high??
- Thread starter tctt3
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Rich Coyle
Well-Known Member
I'm a hunter who likes high. When I raise my rifle with my eyes closed and open them I look right through the middle of the ocular lens.
D
Deleted member 48126
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Hunters use low to keep the profile of their rifles manageable. Also you want the rifle completely in your control for shooting in various positions so your cheek is nice and tight to the stock and your have a solid grip with the rifle tight to your shoulder. In Benchrest you want them high so your face isn't negatively affecting the rifle as it naturally recoils. Additionally, this it would mitigate shooter fatigue. Lastly, this is pure speculation, it could limit mirage?? With the scope being higher the heat can dissipate without being so close to the objective...that's just me guessing though.
My best guess was mirage, but when you're talking about such a small amount, why don't hunters all use high rings too??
Sprucegoose
Active Member
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I like to keep them as low as I can on all my rifles. On hunting rifles more so because I don't want the added weight of an adjustable cheek hardware on my hunting stocks.
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Deleted member 48126
Guest
Bc of the before mentioned reasons for hunting. You want more control. The lower the scope, the more likely it is with your natural Line of sight, tighter you're pulling your rifle in for total control in any shooting position. I personally can not stand high rings. The lower the better, but I don't compete in F Class or Benchrest. I hunt and I'm trying to get into PRS.
cummins cowboy
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YEEEEEEEESSS , I cannot agree more. I put the rings on my rifles that allow them to be in perfect view when the gun comes up. that is typically higher than most guys have theirs. mount for fit and function not looks.
I've just always used as low as possible. That's just how I was taught. However, I've just recently started looking at competition gear and higher end things, and it just bewildered me that competition guys use the extra high. I would think you'd want a cheek weld, but apparently not. Like pull a bow string, I like hitting my cheek to that pad and knowing my eye will be sitting perfect. I guess they have plenty of time to set up. So, my next thought was if it was due to mirage, why not just move the cheek weld higher and go for the taller rings. Nice to be able to have a place like this to ask these questions swirling in my head.
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
First and foremost, the ring height should fit the shooter and give him a parallax free position. (Your eye should be centered in the optics of the scope). the normal reason to keep the scope as low as possible and achieve the best eye alignment, is to keep the scope optical center as close to the barrel bore centerline and to minimize the error in the point of impact if the rifle is slightly canted.
Bench rest shooters dont have the same problems as position shooters and hunters do with ever changing positions and normally have a level shooting position and/or a built in level for reference so the height is set for other reasons discussed.
Most Long range shooters have levels attached to aid in preventing canting error, even though the scope is mounted as low as possible.
It all boils down to preference and the distance to be used. the longer the shot the more effect canting can have, the higher the scope, the more effect canting can have.
J E CUSTOM
Bench rest shooters dont have the same problems as position shooters and hunters do with ever changing positions and normally have a level shooting position and/or a built in level for reference so the height is set for other reasons discussed.
Most Long range shooters have levels attached to aid in preventing canting error, even though the scope is mounted as low as possible.
It all boils down to preference and the distance to be used. the longer the shot the more effect canting can have, the higher the scope, the more effect canting can have.
J E CUSTOM
That makes sense. Didn't think of canting being the reason. Embarrassed that wasn't my first thought. I use a level on everything, and if I'm shooting anything long range I take the time to check everything twice. However, for anything less, it definitely a get on it quick and squeeze scenario. Thanks for the info guys.
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
There is a good way to find out if you Have any canting even if you have a level.
First place a target at your zero range that has a aimpoint low on the target.
Shoot a 2 or 3 shot group and then crank up your scope to the next distance at least in 100 yards or more increments and shoot another 2 or 3 shot group at the same aiming point.
Raise the scope zero again and repeat the process until you get to at least 600 yards. If the rifle is canted or the level is not perfect, the vertical string/line for all shots will be left or right of vertical from the original group center. (The reason for 2 or 3 shots is to establish a group center)
Don't worry about the first group being perfectly centered because what you are looking for is left or right of the vertical center of this group as you extend the distance. Be sure to aim at the same spot on the target every time.
I place a level in the true center of the first group and using the level I draw a vertical line on the target before i remove it to be sure it is a true vertical line of actual shots.
J E CUSTOM
First place a target at your zero range that has a aimpoint low on the target.
Shoot a 2 or 3 shot group and then crank up your scope to the next distance at least in 100 yards or more increments and shoot another 2 or 3 shot group at the same aiming point.
Raise the scope zero again and repeat the process until you get to at least 600 yards. If the rifle is canted or the level is not perfect, the vertical string/line for all shots will be left or right of vertical from the original group center. (The reason for 2 or 3 shots is to establish a group center)
Don't worry about the first group being perfectly centered because what you are looking for is left or right of the vertical center of this group as you extend the distance. Be sure to aim at the same spot on the target every time.
I place a level in the true center of the first group and using the level I draw a vertical line on the target before i remove it to be sure it is a true vertical line of actual shots.
J E CUSTOM
Hand Skills
Well-Known Member
One thing that hasn't been mentioned is stock geometry. Drop at comb and drop at heel have a big influence on Line Of Sight over the barrel.
Traditional 'hunting' rifles had a lot of drop so that open sights could be used. When we transitioned (historically) to targeting optics it was natural to mount them as low as possible, along the LOS.
Design has come a long way, and we now understand that a straight stock vectors recoil a lot better than a 'monte Carlo'. Modern designs reduce drop at heel, thus LOS is higher over the barrel.
The main factor in scope height is objective diameter though. Lots of bench guys use targeting optics that resemble spotting scopes. Large objective lenses in concert with the profile of a heavy barrel increases the required mounting hight for the scope to even clear the barrel.
Traditional 'hunting' rifles had a lot of drop so that open sights could be used. When we transitioned (historically) to targeting optics it was natural to mount them as low as possible, along the LOS.
Design has come a long way, and we now understand that a straight stock vectors recoil a lot better than a 'monte Carlo'. Modern designs reduce drop at heel, thus LOS is higher over the barrel.
The main factor in scope height is objective diameter though. Lots of bench guys use targeting optics that resemble spotting scopes. Large objective lenses in concert with the profile of a heavy barrel increases the required mounting hight for the scope to even clear the barrel.
