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Rifle won't hold zero

TXshooter

TXshooter

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 13, 2012
Messages
333
Location
Texas
Ok so I have a custom 338 Norma and lately it won't hold zero. Here is what I've done so far. I had a nightforce on it with TPS rings nd the rail is made by smith. It used to hold zero no prob. When it started loosing zero it woul be between 3-5 inches off. I'd zero it clean it and put it up. Id bring it out next time I wanted to shoot and it would be 3-5 inches off again. I was told several times it was my scope. Not believing it I changed out scope and rings for a steiner 5-25 and another set of TPS rings. Zeroed it cleaned it and put it up. Took it back out and it was off zero again 5 inches. What the heck is going on. The only change I have is before I noticed the zero issue my bullets stayed inside house. After I started having zero issues, my bullets have been being stored in the garage. It is grouping tight just not staying on zero. So I have a hard time believing it's the bullet storage.

Any ideas?
 
Well, quite obviously, something is moving. Your range of considerations are the scope, scope mounts, action/barrel alignment. Because distance off target is relative to distance, I'm assuming that 5 inches = 5 MOA.
In your position I'd start from scratch. Take it apart - check the action bedding, pillars (are they securely in place) whether the action screws are fully seated when they're fully torqued, the action fits in proper alignment when seated in the stock and the recoil lug doesn't move when the action screws are loosened.
Scope mounting rail (or other mounts) is secure and bedded to the action.
Scope rings are tightly secured to the mount(s).
Scope rings are securely fastened to the scope tube.
Can't think of anything else. gun)
 
Last edited:
That happens a lot when people use cheap scopes. But it doesn't sound like that's your problem. But something is moving. I agree on disassembling the gun and make sure everything is tight. I'm sure it's just something stupid that got overlooked. It's not your bullets.
 
Go wash your mouth out with soap. Cushing like that will not be tolerated. Many good ideas have came from a nice glass of scotch. I'm not the philosophical (big word) type, so I'll just leave it at that. I couldnt think of a username when I joined, and it just so happen that there was a bottle sitting in front of me that gave me an idea. I would love to have a bottle of blue label. The next time I find myself in a Duty Free zone I plan to take advantage. But until then Black Label will do just fine. Especially considering that I only have the occasional glass of it.

Have you managed to fix that rifle yet?
 
JOHNNIE WALKER said:
Have you managed to fix that rifle yet?
Click to expand...


Well I thought maybe something loose but when I grab and wiggle all seemed tight. So I got out the torque wrench tonight. After removing the scope (rings and all). Wouldn't ya know it the two screws on the front of my rail weren't even close to tight. The back two were and that was why all felt good with the grab and pull method. Hope this is the problem. Would explain why the rifle still shot good but not as good as she normally does. Hope I used the right inch pounds. Stock and ring mounts got 65, while rail and actual rings got 25. We will see haven't had a whole lot of shoot time hopefully end of week I'll check it out
 
FearNoWind said:
It appears you still have time.
Do this:

Holy crap. You know how they say assumption is the mother of all....well you know. And I did. I always figured that since the whole thing is custom including the rail from the same guy that all that would fit perfect. Well that video was great and I decided this morning to check that and sure enough there wasn't a bad gap but there was defiantly a gap. It actually kinda touched on one side but still dragged a piece of paper no problem between rail and action. Guess I'm going to be pulling out the jb weld. Here we go assuming again but I'm going to assume that a little gap like that and a pretty good recoil are what makes the screws back out.
Click to expand...
 
If you never want to change the rail or mounts, then go ahead with the JB Weld or the likes. However, if you ever want to change than you are sort of stuck with that setup. Another viable option would be just to use locktite. Use the nonpermanet type.

I had the exact same issue and also found the front screws loose. Put some locktite on and problem solved.
 
Rick Richard said:
If you never want to change the rail or mounts, then go ahead with the JB Weld or the likes. However, if you ever want to change than you are sort of stuck with that setup. Another viable option would be just to use locktite. Use the nonpermanet type.

I had the exact same issue and also found the front screws loose. Put some locktite on and problem solved.
Click to expand...

I did use locktite as well as have them torqued. I went ahead and bedded my rail. Worst case if I ever changed would be to buy a new rail. if my problem is solved then I don't see ever getting a new setup. We will see going to shoot here in a few minutes and find out
 
image.jpg

Ok so my problem is still there. Here are my results after shooting I checked all screws and all were tight. The top left target has the four shots. The three around the center are me zeroing and then a follow up which is almost and inch have high. So I let the barrel cool and moved over one target to the right. And shot three which is the group high of center. I thought, ok that's not bad so I tried it again on the same target. That's the group right of center. So now I don't know what is going on so I let it cool and start shooting 4 shot groups. Which are the three targets on the bottom starting from the left. After the three initial zero shots I never adjusted my scope. That's a lot of movement. Any ideas? Again I rechecked screws on the stock, the rail screws, ring screws, and ring to rail nuts. All were tight.
 
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