LanceS4803
Well-Known Member
If that works, it would have saved me a whole shelf of strippers I bought to try and find one that works on Remington stocks!
Restoring 700 Bdl stock
- Thread starter Bob Wright
- Start date
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SMK1000plus
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure if Remington has changed the finish on their walnut stocks in the last 15 years or so. All the Remington 700 walnut stocks I have worked on have been from at least 15 years ago or much older. All of my newer Remington 700s have come with HS Precision or Bell & Carlson Medalist stocks. I have used CITRISTIP Gel on dozens of the old Remington 700 walnut stocks and it works great.
I know that Browning has been using 2 part epoxy finishes on their rifles for over 35 years. CITRISTRIP won't cut a Browning epoxy finish.
I know that Browning has been using 2 part epoxy finishes on their rifles for over 35 years. CITRISTRIP won't cut a Browning epoxy finish.
Bob Wright
Well-Known Member
This stuff from Brownells has a similar name but is Certistrip as opposed to Citristrip, (inferring citric acid)? Same product we've been discussing or no?
Being in AZ, and our hellish summers, am wondering if any stripper will need to be done outdoors (vapors), and how fast it will dry to a serious mess before I can remove it.
Being in AZ, and our hellish summers, am wondering if any stripper will need to be done outdoors (vapors), and how fast it will dry to a serious mess before I can remove it.
Chokoloskee Joe
Well-Known Member
Citristrip is a very mild stripper and so I doubt it is the same as this "super duper" stuff at Brownells. I am not familiar with it specifically, but the strongest strippers generally available that I am aware of all have Methylene Chloride as the active ingredient. It is very nasty stuff, highly toxic and a strong carcinogenic. You'll need a respirator and chemical proof gloves and , obviously, only use outside the house. Personally, I would not go near it but many people still use it.
SMK1000plus
Well-Known Member
I use the CITRISTIP in my garage with just a vent fan. It gets pretty hot here on FL as well. The fumes are not bad, particular when wrapped with Cling-Wrap. The Cling-Wrap also slows drying but, even in my hot garage, in mid-summer, there has been plenty enough time to work. I just wrap the stock in sections, then remove one section of the Cling-Wrap at a time.
Chokoloskee Joe
Well-Known Member
Just to clarify, I am saying I would not use Methylene Chloride based strippers. Citristrip is a lot less toxic as the active ingredient is N-Methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NMP). NMP is much safer which is why I assume they developed it. One thing about NMP you should keep in mind is that it is easily absorbed through the skin, so you still want to make sure to wear chemical gloves.
SMK1000plus
Well-Known Member
Yes, you must wear chemical resistant gloves. Nitrile gloves work well. Though relatively mild for a stripper, CITRISTIP can burn your skin if you work with it unprotected. You must also use it with adequate ventilation.
just country
Well-Known Member
morning, Dosh is right about rechecker job. call brownells. they
will tell u what rechecker tool to use on a rem. stock. youtube
also shows the procedure if wanted. clean the checkering
separately. tape borders of checkering. old tooth brushes
work wonders in tight places. when cleaning stock follow
the instructions in the tru oil kit closely. justme
gbot tum
will tell u what rechecker tool to use on a rem. stock. youtube
also shows the procedure if wanted. clean the checkering
separately. tape borders of checkering. old tooth brushes
work wonders in tight places. when cleaning stock follow
the instructions in the tru oil kit closely. justme
gbot tum
Bob Wright
Well-Known Member
I just looksed at the MSDS sheet on CERTISTRIP from Brownells. It is Methylene Chloride based and it shouldn't be used above 100°F, and I don't want it shipped until it cools down. It's aggressive stuff. Was wanting to do a side by side comparison to report back to all of you. It has to wait, living in AZ, not too friendly in the summer.
I will however contact those that offered dent removal advice on the bare wood, as I have a stripped identical stock to play with. Thanks to all that commented. Learning is good.....
B23
Well-Known Member
If anyone has a pic/s of what a Rem BDL walnut stock looks like after it's had the epoxy finished stripped off and then oil finished, I'd really appreciate someone posting them.
I really like the idea of stripping that epoxy stuff off and refinishing my stock with some kind of oil finish, but I'll be honest, I'm probably to chicken to ever attempt it. I'd be afraid of really screwing it up. As good as I think it would look with a hand rubbed oil finish, I'd rather leave it alone and have the high gloss that I don't really care for, versus effing the thing up and ruining the stock.
I refinished the stock on my grandfathers old Win model 74 22lr when I was a kid in woodshop class, but that was easy peasy. This epoxy stripping is just a little outside of my comfort zone.
I really like the idea of stripping that epoxy stuff off and refinishing my stock with some kind of oil finish, but I'll be honest, I'm probably to chicken to ever attempt it. I'd be afraid of really screwing it up. As good as I think it would look with a hand rubbed oil finish, I'd rather leave it alone and have the high gloss that I don't really care for, versus effing the thing up and ruining the stock.
I refinished the stock on my grandfathers old Win model 74 22lr when I was a kid in woodshop class, but that was easy peasy. This epoxy stripping is just a little outside of my comfort zone.
Ts3
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2015
- Messages
- 183
SMK is right about the citristrip. I bought a really beat up 700 BDL from a pawn shop. The citristrip took all of the finish off without any sanding. I steamed the dents, sanded the wood, and refinished it with the Miles Gilbert kit from midway. I touched up all the checkering with a single line checkering tool, then sealed the checkering with 2 thinned coats of the oil finish. It turned out really nice. I would do exactly the same again.
See if the pics work. This stock was given to me to use on a lefty action while I waited on a McMillan. I have since grown fond of it. It arrived looking beat. Very visible gouges and scratches. Simply using 0000 steel wool, rubbing compound and some very gentle circular motion polishing knocked the sheen off and made the scratches disappear. The gouges are still evident but far less noticeable. Took about 30 minutes.
B23
Well-Known Member
And this was originally a Rem BDL walnut stock with the epoxy coating stuff?!See if the pics work. This stock was given to me to use on a lefty action while I waited on a McMillan. I have since grown fond of it. It arrived looking beat. Very visible gouges and scratches. Simply using 0000 steel wool, rubbing compound and some very gentle circular motion polishing knocked the sheen off and made the scratches disappear. The gouges are still evident but far less noticeable. Took about 30 minutes.
If so, that turned out really well and maybe gives me a bit of hope it may not be as involved as I think.
Fortunately for me, the stock on my 20-222 in the pic I posted is flawless and doesn't have any bumps or bruises, just has that shiny epoxy finish I don't really care for. Like I mentioned before, love the stock, but hate the finish.
